Is there a fuse that controls the passenger window on this '04 MC40?
Thanks

 

In the kick panel it is Fuse #19

 

I am at work now, but on the way, I tried the switch and it works, so I don't know what's wrong. If its the fuse then it would not be intermittent. Am I wrong?

 

Try hitting the door card near the speaker. That get it to at least roll up. Then start saving your sheckles for a new window motor.

 

If it was the fuse it would not make any noise. Are you just hearing a click from the switch or the motor? Try the Fonze method (Only if you know who he is from Happy Days) LMAO
http://tech.bentleypublishers.com/th...threadID=17194
Read this http://www.mini2.com/forum/first-gen...ing-guide.html

 

^^This

The motor starts to develop flat spots and begins to fail. Smacking it can sometimes get it moving again. Some people that have done this haven't had a problem again and others eventually had to swap the motor out.

 

The Fonzie method.

 

I am not hearing any click from the switch or motor.

 

Yes, if the Fonzie method does not work. I have seen the Fonize method work in the short term then down the road it will need replaced.

Links to how to test and method just to make sure you are doing it right.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...wont-work.html

Window Motors:

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/67626955875/


Thanks

 

Since the MINI OEM window motors are notorious for going bad do you recommend the other brands for replacement (VEMO, WorldSource)?



To all; I have seen these at wrecking yards for $30++ online. Just remember it is a used motor and will have a shorter life than a new one, it is as reliable as the one you are replacing IMO. I might choose the non OEM motor (I'm having the same issue as everyone else) for an extra $25. On the other hand the wrecking yard is the second least expensive (short term) option, the Fonzie being the 1st. FYI, I have plenty of experience with wrecking yard parts and don't condone them, often it is the better choice for the DIY'er (like myself). Just trying to help people make informed decisions. I usually stay away from electrical parts and other non rebuildable or non refurbishable parts. I will tell you why; My second car, years ago, I bought struts form a wrecking yard.....don't ever buy struts from a wrecking yard.


-Gunner

 

We have other options available based on budget. Some people like myself , have had the OEM Genuine MINI motors last a long time ( well over 200,000 miles ) while others had a shorter life, based on use and conditions. One note, When buying new you don't have the brushes worn down for use. When you get used, unless removing the end and checking the motor and brushes, you don't really know the condition. Just keep that in mind.

The link above is for pre 6/2005. 6/2005+ takes a different motor, additional bracket and regulators. That was the big change in those in Gen 1 MINIs. You have a 2004 MINI so you should be fine.

Thanks

 

My driver side window failed a week ago. I banged on the motor after reading this thread and it worked again. I can here it click 2 times while going down.

It sounds like we both agree that buying this particular part from a wrecking yard is not the best choice, I think I will be buying a new motor from you soon.

 

Funny but my drivers window failed on me this past weekend. I had a problem with my car when I first bought it that the top went down but wouldn't go up again. Turned out it was the passenger window motor that caused the trouble. Since it was being repaired in warranty as a used car I didn't pay too much attention even though the interconnectivity was puzzling. Then Friday, as I was putting the top down, I watched the passenger window and rear windows go down, but the drivers window wouldn't move. Apparently that motor is messed up now. I'm thinking about trying to open it up and see about the brushes since they could be sticking from lack of use. The only thing that scares me is the warning in the Bennett book about holding back the armature (??) so the cable doesn't unwind and mess things up. I still need to pop the door panel and check everything out. At least the price of the motor isn't TOO terribly expensive.

 

Okay, I got the panel off and I'm up to the motor removal part. Can I just unscrew the three screws that hold the motor in place or do I have to go through the removal of the entire regulator? I did loosen them but then got concerned when there seemed to be things connected and running all over the inside of the door.

 

It is worlds easier to remove the regulator as an assembly with the motor attached to it.


You'll want the window out of the door prior to starting to remove all the motor and regulator.

Once the 3 Phillips screws are out of the motor holding it to the door remove the 2 10mm bolts on the bottom of the door, and the 2 near the top of the door behind grommets, Then remove the tracks and regulator/motor assembly.

Just MAKE SURE YOU DON'T PULL THE REGULATOR APART! The motor has a spur gear on it that keys into the regulator, use a screwdriver to separate the two, otherwise you'll be buying a new regulator as well.

Once you replace the motor, just make sure to reinstall the 10mm bolts in the previous locations (easy to see, they leave markings).

Nick
Detroit Tuned

 

Okay, thanks for the input. A project for tomorrow night after work. I'll post my progress~

 

Looking at my Bentley Manual, it says to remove the glass prior to removing the window regulator. THAT procedure requires that I lower the window. Since my window motor is not functioning, lowering the glass might be a tad difficult. Before I start the job without lowering the window and get in trouble, does anyone have a suggestion in this regard?

 

It makes the job easier to be able to roll the window down about 1/4 way.

Yes, the window has to come out to do the job, but if you can get your hands in behind the window regulator once the window nuts are loose, all you have to do is pop the nuts out. They have spring loaded prongs on the end, give it a little pull and they come off. Once they're off the regulator the window will just lift right out.

Nick
Detroit Tuned

 

Thanks. I'll give it a go.

As long as I can get the window to move! I tried the Fonzi method but no amount of banging and tapping seems to be working. I can hear a relay or some such thing going through its cycle each time I hit the switch, but otherwise nothing happens.

I will persevere!

 

It is doable without being able to roll the window down that 1/4 way, but it makes it easier to get hands in there.

Good luck.

 

I finally got a bit of time to play with the window today. Through this thread and various others I was able to see a method of removing the motor without going through all the other moves. I git the stator (magenta) down and saw the brushes and commentator. Everything there looked good so I did a continuity test. As I expected there was a circuit across the brushes meaning that the motor was good. I tried rotating the armature and found it quite difficult to turn in one direction. I have come to the conclusion that the problem is NOT the motors, but in fact the adjustment of the cables, allowing the units to hit the end of the mechanical run before the limit switch shuts the motor down. As a result the motor won't run because it jams. The stories told about the blackened commentators ran against my knowledge as an electric motor repairman. Any commutator should have a black film on it. Polishing the black away will only result in another film building back up. That is the principle of operation. The film of carbon IS the conductivity. Apparently the result of the "cleaning" of the comms was the dumb luck of having repositioned the armature causing a relief on the tension.
That aside, I'm now on a quest to see if there is an adjustment of the cables to find a happy medium between up and down that allows some slack to remain in the cable at each end, or has BMW found the precise length than somehow gets the cars out the door when new but saddles the owners with an ongoing headache? I've seen posts by some about getting 200K out of window motors and others who are replacing them every few years. My car, while only in my possession for less than a year, has already had the passengers motor replaced (warranty from the selling dealer) and when I opened the drivers door to work on that window I found quite a bit of scratches along the door panel and painted surface, indicating to me that the motor was trouble before.

If/when I find a cable fix, I'll post here.

 

Many NAM members, myself included, have had luck removing the motor (I did mine with the window up and regulator in place) and cleaning the motor internals. Carbon and grease build up over time and cause intermittent failure.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-fix-free.html

 

Let use know how it goes , the cables are part of the window regulators, there is that split year in 6/2005 , so keep an eye on your production date in the door jam. Thanks and good luck.

2005 MINI Cooper S Convertible Links:

http://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2005-Cooper-R52-S-Convertible-L4_1.6L_W11B16A/Interior/Window/

 

Unfortunately my car was manufactured in July of 2004 so any splits occurred long afterward. But I'll keep looking. If I had an old regulator to dissect I might be able to figure something out~or not!

 

Great , just wanted to make sure , before you search for a new part it the old one cannot be fixed / corrected.