I was attempting to install some anti mushrooming plates on my 2003 MCS when I broke a stud loose on my passenger side front upper strut mount. Called my local mini dealer and to my embarrassment the mount is all one piece. The other two bolts are torqued down properly. If it was an emergency am I able to drive it for short distance? Has anyone had any experience replacing the upper strut mount?

 

I would not recommend you drive around like that..think of it as a tripod. A tripod with two legs...it won't be stable. You are looking at about an hours time to get the old mount out and new one installed.

 

Are there any other supplies I will need? I have never changed one out before and want to be prepared before I get too deep into it.

 

Could I just by a bolt and us that as a replacement rather than by a whole new strut mount?

 

You'll need a Spring Compressor to change the strut mount out, you can rent one from any auto store for free as long as you return it.

I suppose you could get a bolt from ace of the same thread and throw a washer on the underside and it would work just fine. I have a buddy that did something similar on adjustable camber plates on his STI.

 

I suppose the bolt will be what I try first. $3 fix vs. $95. At least the bolt will probably be sufficient till I have the extra cash for a new mount.

 

Bummer! You may be due for some mounts though! If you already have some mushrooming you gotta assume the mounts have been taking a beating. I think the bolt would work but make sure you get good bolts stainless steel bolts not cheap ones.

If you really want to fix it and not just patch it up replace the mount. Since you will need a spring compressor (rent for free at an auto parts store) replace both mounts at the same time. Not too hard of a job, just spray penetrating oil on all the bolts and let it sit a bit. Lots of write ups on this job in the "how to" section. Good luck and keep us posted!

 

When you are removing the spring just be careful. These are not the springs in ball pointed pens. You can easily lose a finger or two if it accidentally rebounds and your finger happens to be on the way. If you are going to remove steering components it is always nice idea to soak bolts and nuts with penetrants.

Just out of curiosity as I am about to install the same component... How did it break? I wonder if the bolt is that weak to break during the install process, how effective the anti mushrooming plates are as it will only be effective as the least strong link in the chain being that small bolt sticking out that can break during installation.

 

The bolt breaking was completely my fault. I cross threaded the nut when I was putting it on. When I went to remove the nut to correct this it got super tight. With the extra force I applied it broke the stud loose from the upper strut mount. The bolt is currently still on the car it just spins freely. I will have to find some way to either get the nut off or cut it off. It is the one I have my finger on in my picture.

 

Strut mounts are not hard to replace, as stated. Obviously, there is a risk to running around missing one of the studs, but if absolutely necessary, I would, since the weight of the car is pressing down on the mount helping to hold it in place. It will place extra stress on other components, but for a very short amount of light driving I think you could pull it off if absolutely necessary.

 

I once had a stud broke loose and just replaced it with bolt and washers. No issue.

 

Well had a buddy bring over his dremel and we were able to get the old stud off. Now a trip over Home Depot for a stainless steel bolt and nut.

 

My problem is finally resolved! We were able to get a replacement bolt. I decided to go with a grade 8 bolt and nut. These are hardened more than any other bolt. The minimum strength of stainless steel bolts is 40,000 to 90,000 psi. The minimum strength of grade 8 bolts is 130,000 psi. Grade 8 bolts are much stronger than stainless steel.

Once we were able to smash down my mushrooming problem we torqued down the M7 strut tower defender with no problem. Final step was that brace. I will take it easy for a few days and check the torques.

 

Just saw your thread, don't worry about your repair, I've had 3 that have been replaced with bolts for at least a couple of years now, (hell I drove with one broken for a while with no issues too) this fix works just fine, you didn't really even have to use a grade 8 bolt, look how easy it was to screw up the threads on the OEM, they're not hardned.