I intend on installing H&R Springs on my Countryman S in my garage. I have a strut nut tool, and most of the other tools I have read about in DIYs for other Minis.

Has anyone on here installed their own suspension parts on their Countryman? If you have, please post up any suggestions, difficulties, or advice.

One question, do I need a strut mount spreader tool to get the strut out of the knuckle in the front?

 

I just tap a chisel into the gap in the knuckle (chisel facing upward, inserted from the bottom) and that works fine.

 

To be sure I had all the necessary tools, I ordered a strut nut tool (so I didn't have to spin the shaft with an impact gun to get it off) and a strut spreader tool.

I'll be tackling this with a buddy of mine on Sunday morning.

Is there anything I need to know about jacking this car off the ground? I need to get both rears and both fronts up off the ground.

 

I tried tackling this. I started on the front passenger side. I could not get the strut out of the knuckle in the front. Even after loosening the pinch bolt and using a spreader tool. I tried strategically hitting the knuckle downward with a hammer and block of wood.

Does anyone have some advice?

 

Did you loosen it, or remove it completely? It has to be removed completely or the strut won't separate from the knuckle.

They are very tight, other cars just slip together, and even the aftermarket coilovers for the R60 slip in by hand, so I'm not sure why MINI made the stock struts such a tight fit.

Anyway, just remove the bolt completely, hammer a chisel upward into the knuckle gap to spread it (that's what I use, not sure what your spreader tool is, I've never seen one) and then hammer the knuckle downward away from the strut. Using a block of wood probably won't cut it, they're that tight. I have a brass drift and I hammer on that.

 

I admit I did not remove it completely. It, however, was able to spin freely once I spread the knuckle where the strut is.

The strut spreader tool is basically a socket with an oblong piece of metal at the end. You turn it 90 degrees and it widens the gap. I can try a chisel also, it can't hurt.

I will give it another go. Particularly before I pay someone $500 bucks to do the install. I have a baby on the way, any day now, so it might have to wait a bit.

I hammered on the knuckle on the lip where it contacts the strut, downward. I used a block of wood basically as a spacer and I used a small (3lb, I think) mini sledge. What is a brass drift?

I hope I can get them installed. The rears look much easier than the fronts.

 

The good news is that the rears are a piece of cake, remove three bolts and they're off.

A brass drift is just like a round bar, made of brass. Wood is too soft and it'll just absorb the hammering force. A steel hammer could cause damage to the part. So brass is a happy medium. I hammer on that same, thin ridge on the top edge of the knuckle.

In the photo below I circled in red the flange that fits into the gap in the knuckle. On that flange you can see the hole where the bolt goes through. So, as you can see, it isn't going anywhere until the bolt is completely removed.

 

Ok, I will give it another try. I got quotes from a few places and it comes to about $500 with an alignment. I don't want to pay that.

I might have to pick up some brass punches like you mention. I found a few options on amazon.

 

I did the install with these instructions: https://www.northamericanmotoring.com...ll-how-to.html

Really easy to do.
Make sure to install a set of adjustable control arms before you get the alignment done.

 

What method did you use for getting the strut out of the knuckle? How did you spread where it pinches the strut?

I'm trying to get options, or how most people do it.

 

I used a wedge to spread the knuckle. Once the bolt is removed, the strut can rotate in the knuckle then you can slide it out.