Ok..... So my 06 MCS (R53) won't start at all, since 2 days ago know. It basically just wouldn't start at all, so I pushed the car & popped the clutch (runs fine after doing that, if that helps any) just to get it to my garage. No way was I leaving it somewhere. So now, the best way for me to explain the problem its having is basically telling you guys that it feels like I'm trying to start the car without the clutch pushed in. (Which I am obviously doing.) I bought the car roughly 5 years ago, and I only have 41,000 miles on it. I've so far only installed the JCW intake as far as mods go. I've also have done all the regular maintenance done at the correct intervals through MINI until the warranty has expired last year or so. But even since then, all that I've had to do was brakes, tires and one oil change with 0W-40 Mobil 1. Keep in mind, I do realize that all this information isn't necessarily important for this issue that I'm currently having, but the more you know, just maybe the more it will help you - help me diagnose this problem.

All fluid levels are 100%, with the exception of a leaking thermostat housing. I believe its the housing since I've already had the thermostat itself replaced on its own and the overflow tank seems to be fine and the oil has no signs of coolant it it.... And its never overheated, just in case your wondering.

I have made multiple & multiple searches throughout NAM, (book loads of info) and have so far attempted the following:

Made sure that the Clutch Switch (under the dash) was connected and clean of any debris.

Actually replaced the Battery with my buddies brand new battery just temporally, even though my volt meter was telling me that the MINI's battery was fine, plus the green light is on, on the battery. (If that light is a reliable reading) So after all of this, I've begun to rule out the battery altogether. **keep in mind open for all suggestions/questions**

I really think that this is boiling down to my lack of knowledge on the MINI in general, and there seems to be A LOT of minor things that can happen to trigger this type of issue. I unfortunately have always owned all Honda's in the past. So like I said this could just be my like of knowledge of this wonderful machine.

I've also recently heard (last night) that it could be the actual key itself? That I've never heard of, but who knows at this point. I'm currently having one made, for I need an extra key to this car anyways!

Just my opinion, but doesn't this seem to be a little much to have all of these issues with a car that was bought with 3,000 miles on it, and all the other 38,000 have been added to it by myself and myself only? I mean I've been driving standards for over 16 years. And can honestly say have never ran into this many issues, especially with a car so new "in theory".

So anyone and everyone PLEASE HELP a fellow R53 , get on the road again.

What should be next on my list? key? ignition? or........?

 

You've checked Batt, suspected the transponder in key, made sure of clutch switch. I assume the engine is not turning at all when you turn the key. Do you hear clicking? Does it affect anything on the dash? You may try a coupla more things:
Check all cable connections from the battery to the engine bay (body gound & the + terminal for jump starting). Had same problem w/ my Rav4 awhile back where all connections seemed good & super tight. Only to find the cause that was some corrosion hidden under the starter ground. Cleaned,re-tightened...instant START after.
Check the starter itself.
It's a totally different problem should the starter turn & engine won't start. That points to fuel & injection systems.
Hope you get back once this is sorted.

 

With the car on level ground, the transmission in neutral, and the parking brake off, does the car move freely when you push it?

With the car in neutral and the clutch pedal depressed, does the engine turn over when you turn the ignition key?

Is it possible that you have a leak in the clutch slave or master cylinder so that the pedal is not actually applying force to the pressure plate?

Please try to answer these questions, then maybe we can help you.

 

-- suspected the transponder in key, but can't rule out yet, because don't have a new key yet to test. When I bought the car, I only had one.

-- Yes the engine is not turning at all when I turn the key.

-- No clicking what so ever

-- All dash lights / all lights for that matter all work 100%

-- Will check these connections your referring to tonight (thanks)

 

With the car on level ground, the transmission in neutral, and the parking brake off, does the car move freely when you push it? -- Not sure, (WELL WAS ABLE TO PUSH IT TO POP THE CLUTCH) will try this tonight also, but I believe that it does.

With the car in neutral and the clutch pedal depressed, does the engine turn over when you turn the ignition key? -- Not sure, Never tried to start it without the clutch engaged? will also do this tonight!


Is it possible that you have a leak in the clutch slave or master cylinder so that the pedal is not actually applying force to the pressure plate? -- Not sure, whats the best method of checking this?


Please try to answer these questions, then maybe we can help you. -- Not to worry there, I will be answering everyone's questions as soon as possible!

 

I'm no mechanic, but it sounds like your starters gone.

 

One thing...
You said you made sure the clutch switch was clean/free of debris...did you try to test it?
A car that push starts, but fails to crank seems to scream starter to me....
The lack of a click (from then bendix on it flying forward) is a bit odd, but i'd look at the wiring for it...one tip...the starter motor wiring (if i remember right) is unfused, and goes from the battery box in the back, where the mini's TWO positive cables split from next to the battery....one cable is fused witg a link, like the airbags, to disable the electrical system if the airbags are deployed, the other is a stright shoot...a fuse for a high item is $$ for dc stuff...

 

-- I have obviously thought that also, but I need to get this darn key first I think, before I can rule that out. Wouldn't you agree? Has anyone had a starter go this early in coopers, by chance? What about just the solenoid? Is that an option of replacing just that part, or whole starter? My dad was mentioning something about that last night also. But again I'm far from a mechanic also!!!!

 

You said you made sure the clutch switch was clean/free of debris...did you try to test it? -- like how? I actually removed it, and re-connected it just to make sure, because it didn't seem to be loose like others have said this problem could arise from. But when pushing the clutch down with this sort of clutch switch "magnetic", you don't really see anything, correct? Basically what I'm saying is, I had a buddy press the clutch in while I was under the dash watching it, (I'm a smaller dude, obviously , but it doesn't do anything (like move). So, how else would you recommend testing it? Like volt meter or something?

but i'd look at the wiring for it...one tip...the starter motor wiring (if i remember right) is unfused, and goes from the battery box in the back, where the mini's TWO positive cables split from next to the battery....one cable is fused with a link, like the airbags, to disable the electrical system if the airbags are deployed, the other is a stright shoot...a fuse for a high item is $$ for dc stuff... -- I will check on this tonight also. I'm compiling a detailed list from this thread, on what to check next. What am I looking for with this check? Just make sure its all connected correctly? Or a fuse or something?

 

One thing I wanted to add here, I only have the key without the controls on it. Basically like a "valet key", if this helps anyone....... Not sure if those type actually go bad at all? somehow?

 

Gen1 "refresh" cars (2005+l were sold with 2 keys with remotes built in that recharge inductivly when in the ignition, and a single plastic wallet key.
Sounds like you might have a replacement key....
if it is the starter, an old school trick is to wack it with a hammer...usually works cause the solnoid/bendix is stuck, so a wack can looen it, allowing it to go forward, and make contact with the flywheel, starting the car. Since you do not hear a whir or anyother sound, this serms unlikly to help. Starters DO fail....
to order a key (keys) you can go by (or maybe call a dealer), provide proof of ownership, and they will order the key(s). A few days later, go to tge dealer, and the keys will be paired, and programmed to the car....ebsy bay blanks do not work, but to open the door IF you get it cut.
Good luck.

 

Thanks a lot! By the sounds of your response here, I think that I have the "single plastic wallet key". I do know about the "old school hammer trick", though didn't attempt it yet. As for getting a new key, which I am doing no matter what, I think since I've had my car serviced at the MINI dealer I might be able to call and request the order, hopefully. Just 1hr closest MINI dealer from me... Actually I'm gonna take a quick pick of my key for this thread in a couple. Just in case.

 

i dont understand how youve even been driving the car with the valet key...?! if theres no radio in your key, the car should not start!

Zippy,
are you SURE about the inductive recharging? i have the "regular" metal key, with buttons, and i have taken one apart to check its battery (btw, these keys are sonic welded shut, so, once its open, thats it...) and i see no receiver coil to accept an inductive charge.

now, if it were one of they "keyless" keys, then i believe you!

 

-- Ok, so I have my wife taking pictures of the key as we speak. I'm probably wrong with what key type I have. All I know is that its an actual MINI key, just doesn't have any controls. If that helps....... Sorry for the confusion. I will have pictures of the actual key up on here within the next hour I'm guessing. Just to cover all possible grounds...ON THIS NOTE ALSO, THIS KEY I HAVE WAS ONCE RAN OVER BY A U-HAUL, but has worked for years since that incident.

 

I had a very similar problem in my 2003 R53. It turns out that the clutch switch came unclipped under the dash (which you've checked) AND the fuse for it (I think #5 in the panel inside the car) had blown. After reinstalling the switch and replacing the fuse, all was well.

Regarding the transponder in the key, leave your driver's door open and put the key in the ignition. If the car "dings" then the transponder is likely good. For whatever crazy, over-engineered reason, the ignition-key-door-open ding is tied to the transponder. You can even put the back end of the key near the ignition switch to make it ding.

 

-- NEVER knew the switch had a fuse also!!!!! Holy cow claancy, this is going to be the first thing I now look at right when i get home.. WOW. I hope that's it. Thanks a million for this tid-bit!!!

-- And as far as the transponder in the key - INGENIOUS TEST you know about there!! I'll be doing that 2nd, maybe 1st. VERY HELPFUL claancy. Can't thank you guys all enough already!!!

 

The first thing I did after having my car towed home was to study the wiring diagram for the clutch switch in my Bentley manual. It's an expensive book, but easily worth having.

Quite some time ago, maybe in the "things you didn't know about your MINI" thread, I read about making the car ding by holding the key next to the ignition. The first thing I did was try it. The second was to try it with the key from a different MINI, and whaddaya know, it didn't ding. This may not guarantee that the transponder is working, but it can probably give you a reasonable starting point.

 

I was more than likely going to try this method first, just seems a little more exact to me: "leave your driver's door open and put the key in the ignition. If the car "dings" then the transponder is likely good."

And as far as owning a Bentley manual. It is an expensive book, but I will purchase this also. Do you by chance know the best place to order one of those up? (I know I could search this board, but since you already have purchased one and all......)

 

 

I got mine from Amazon a few years ago. The new edition is hard-bound and I think it includes a section on diagnostics that they used to sell as a separate book. They also show up on the marketplace sometimes. If you buy one secondhand, you should make sure that you get the version that covers the 2005+ "facelift" models. This version of the paperback has both the blue hardtop and a red convertible on the cover.

 

hey, quick thought, you can check that switch with a multi meter.

set it to read resistance (lowest setting is fine). put a probe on each lead of the switch. the meter should read "infinite resistance" (usually a 1 with no zeros or decimal). Press the switch. you should see a very small number (assuming there is no built in resistance).

if the switch has multiple leads, you may have to experiment with each to see which provides you with results. some switches will only have 2 leads, other 3. in the case of 3, its a "double pull", meaning it connects 2 leads while disconnecting the 3rd.

 

Thank you, Thank you!

 

--That's exactly what my Dad actually wants me to do too...(check the switch with multimeter). He actually just called me and asked about doing this tonight also. But thanks for all the extra information about the actual process of doing it. I'm sure that should help us in the end.... He's actually going to come down tonight also to do just this.

 

Everyone, I greatly appreciate all of the quick responses that I've gotten today already. I'm basically going to be printing this out at 5:00 EST, taking it home and going through this list. And of course I will keep you guys informed on what happened tomorrow, after I attempt all of this. I'm just extremely hoping that the solution to this problem lies in this thread!!!

Feel like I should give a prize to the winner who had the right solution. Hahaha. Even though this is a very vague type of problem..... But just saying. I appreciate all your help.

THE MORE THE BETTER!!!!!!!

 

And the picture of the key I have, as promised.....



If this helps clear some things up about what type of key I actually have. . I told you it got ran over by a U-Haul about 1yr ago. But has worked everyday since then.... But who knows. Nevertheless its one sad key indeed...