Navigation & Audio How do you wire in DB6501's?
How do you wire in DB6501's?
Okay, I've removed the door speakers no problem, but now I'm puzzled on putting in the new ones. I'll need a single 2-wire input to the crossover, but the existing wiring has me baffled. The lower speaker has a couple of yellow wires supplying it, and the upper speaker has a couple of blues.
Do both speakers get the same signal so I can use either one as the crossover input? Will the Polks get the "full" power of the HU if I'm only using one set as input?
Suggestions?
Thanks
Jeff
Do both speakers get the same signal so I can use either one as the crossover input? Will the Polks get the "full" power of the HU if I'm only using one set as input?
Suggestions?
Thanks
Jeff
I suggest an amplifier. If you have the basic system you may not be completely happy with sound. I would suggest using the line that goes to the 6inch driver. My 4 inch opening is emty with wire unconnected. I cheated and used feed on back of head unit to feed now being removed Lc6i line converter.
And the wiring to each speaker depends on the OEM stereo installed
Base stereo - both drivers in door are wired together in parallel
HiFi or H/K stereo the drivers are wired separately.
Base stereo - both drivers in door are wired together in parallel
HiFi or H/K stereo the drivers are wired separately.
I am planning on adding an amp with new rears in the future, but for now, I'm just replacing the front speakers. Cash-flow dictates the progressive schedule.
Good point regarding the various systems out there. I have the base system. If they are wired in parallel, then it won't matter which speaker I use to supply the crossover and it will get all the input power as long as the other speaker's wires are left unused and open, it that accurate?
Good point regarding the various systems out there. I have the base system. If they are wired in parallel, then it won't matter which speaker I use to supply the crossover and it will get all the input power as long as the other speaker's wires are left unused and open, it that accurate?
I am planning on adding an amp with new rears in the future, but for now, I'm just replacing the front speakers. Cash-flow dictates the progressive schedule.
Good point regarding the various systems out there. I have the base system. If they are wired in parallel, then it won't matter which speaker I use to supply the crossover and it will get all the input power as long as the other speaker's wires are left unused and open, it that accurate?
Good point regarding the various systems out there. I have the base system. If they are wired in parallel, then it won't matter which speaker I use to supply the crossover and it will get all the input power as long as the other speaker's wires are left unused and open, it that accurate?
I considered getting the new A-pillar trim pieces and fitting the tweeters in, but for the cost, and I'm not sure the benefit of doing so wouldn't be degraded by the huge separation between the drivers that doing so would produce, I didn't. I have no evidence that said separation would be a problem, however.
Instead, I did the cannibalization of the 4"ers and used them as the tweeter carrier. Worked great. Just finished buttoning up the whole thing and tried them out. Noticeable improvement. Now on to part two when the funds have built up a bit.
Thanks for the help, everyone who contributed.
Jeff
Instead, I did the cannibalization of the 4"ers and used them as the tweeter carrier. Worked great. Just finished buttoning up the whole thing and tried them out. Noticeable improvement. Now on to part two when the funds have built up a bit.
Thanks for the help, everyone who contributed.
Jeff
you can always use the 4" location with a MDF or other material ring to adap[t your tweeter. I chose Kicker KS for now have a new set of QS ^.2 components coming because the tweeters cabn be coax mounted.
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