Drivetrain First power mod?

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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 09:21 PM
  #1  
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First power mod?

So, part of the reason I bought an 'S' model is because turbos are tunable. I must say I'm a little disappointed in how few options there are for this engine, though. Most of them seem like baby steps.
I'd buy a flash tuner in a heartbeat, but nothing's available yet. Seen some impressive numbers from people sending the ECU out to be tuned, but not willing to ship mine away thanks.
So, what is my best bang for buck? I know I'm not going to see a massive jump from throwing any one component on, but wheres a good starting point? Intake? Boost tubes? IC? Upgraded BPV? I'm looking to spend under $500 right now, so full exhaust is out of the question. Also, lease vehicle, so warranty considerations apply. I'm already sold on the torque arm inserts to help keep things in check in that department - I've seen what a difference that can make on a previous car.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 06:01 AM
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Well with the prince engines there are only a few "big" power mods, and since you say there are no flashes available I'm assuming you have the newer prince engine.

Intake/Exhaust will give you minimal gains, but nice sounds

Catless Downpipe/Tune will give you the largest gains in power($$)

A larger intercooler/tubing will help you make this power ^^ more safely. ($$)

Ditching the Runflats will improve ride and performance(this would be my first mod)

Adding a rear sway bar will reduce understeer

The torque arm inserts will reduce torque steer.

 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by axleR56
Well with the prince engines there are only a few "big" power mods, and since you say there are no flashes available I'm assuming you have the newer prince engine.
We're in the Countryman section here, so ...

 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 08:55 AM
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Sorry, saw it in the New Posts section and didnt see a car in your sig.


Either way, the suggestions still apply for the most part
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 10:43 AM
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You want to mod but you got a lease...?

Typically you'll want to make it easier for the turbo to do its job. that means:

an easy path for air to get to the turbo and remain as cool as possible (free flowing, cold air intake)
keeping the intake charge after the turbo as cool as possible with minimal restriction (free flowing, efficient intercooler).
and an easy exit for exhaust gas after the turbo (large, free flowing exhaust).

beyond that, you're not going to find any cheap solutions.

One thing you might consider is finding a free flowing muffler. Heck, you might even be able to run no muffler if you can handle the noise. There's already cats and resonators in the exhaust (AND a turbo) and that'll keep it fairly quiet.

Something interesting you might be able to try is a straight through muffler made for a V6 camaro. It looks like this:



NO idea if it'll fit, but the concept is solid. the stock muffler is probably chambered and likely has walls that slow down flow. I couldn't find a picture. the above picture uses a single inlet in a straight thru muffler that has a "Y" inside. gases enter on the right and exit on the left (one side with a big U-turn)

Here's one with an X but you get the idea. remove two legs on one side, replace with single entrance.




On a turbo motor, you wont raise noise levels much but you will feel the difference.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 12:48 PM
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I might be wrong, but I think the factory exhaust is 1 piece from somewhere out front all the way back? I'm guessing exhaust would be more than just throwing on axle-back if I want to avoid cutting up factory system.
Maybe I need to start with an intake?
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 02:29 PM
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maybe you could have a shop add a flange to the current setup and then build an axle back that fits from the flange back. easily replaceable.


intake would be a start. you know you want to dyno test!
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 02:34 PM
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I want to dyno test. Nearest dyno that I know of is over 3hrs away, not even sure if it is AWD.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 05:29 PM
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Here are some of my "go fast" mods
http://www.countrymanmotoring.com/20...trip-mods.html

Here is the Dyno chart... This was on a Mustang Above Ground dyno... and they read lower than the Dynojet... I believe you have to multiply the number by 1.2 to get to the numbers you would see on a Dynojet.

Anyways, the tune was done before the exhaust (which was on for the dyno) and soon to be NM intake, so the tune needs to be revisited and cleaned up... Hopefully we can get some more power gains, but as of now the car drives WAY faster than it did before... It's not overpowered just properly powered.

Kyle
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 05:30 PM
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Also... This is what a cold start sounds like

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mQA4zxpiaFs

Kyle

PS.. I saw no power gains whatsoever by doing my Downpipe and exhaust... maybe 4 or 5 lb/ft of torque and actually 1 or 2 less horsepower... It could be the tune or it could be that it doesn't have a high flow intake or according to the guys who do this stuff for a living it just doesn't add as much power as we think... Either way, the sound adds 200hp for me
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 05:35 PM
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Bought a JCW Coupe.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 05:44 PM
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COBB Tuning from Alta

Check ALTA's AccessPort (made by COBB Tuning) to flash ECU. From what I read in many of the posts here, it also reads & clears codes (turns off CEL) and measures HP, temps, boost, acceleration, pre-loaded with programs suited to your mods. stages, etc. Bonus: excellent tech support. Search...

Sorry, I just read your orig post that AP is not ready for your MY car yet....patience is a virtue.
 

Last edited by ED955S; Mar 30, 2012 at 05:46 PM. Reason: AP not avail.
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 05:46 PM
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I don't believe ALTA makes an AccessPort that is compatible with the Countryman...
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 05:48 PM
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Ok then, maybe it'll come soon.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2012 | 08:38 AM
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It's a lease........

Any bolt-on won't yield you great gains......an access port is the best route but they aren't making one or they are.....who knows.

Bov doesn't do anything unless you tune the car to 20 psi +.

An intake doesn't do much. An kn drop in filter is a cheaper better route.

Full exhaust is a good choice but minimal gains if not tuned. Catback is just for sound....so cut the tips off and weld new 4" tips to obtain the sound...cheaper!

This coming from a guy that had a 290whp and 345wt wrx tuned to 22 psi. Stock wrx is 180whp and 200wt @ 11psi.

If you read up on the jcw countryman, there wasn't a lot changed from an all4. Maybe a Catback and different intake. It's all in the tune my friend
 
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Old Mar 31, 2012 | 09:37 AM
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Yah, it's a lease.
I plan on buying it out after, but just in case...
Lease-friendly mods are possible. Yes, I will have to reverse them whenever I go to dealer. Yes, I will have to take them off if I turn it in. But, that doesn't mean I can't have a little fun.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2012 | 10:32 AM
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Comparing my mods to a lease-friendly situation... I'd go with:

Torque Arm Bushings
Sprintbooster (if it's an Automatic, that's your biggest friend)
Intake (Won't add much, but great sound)
Way's BPV (just about as good as Forge's BPV)

That keeps you under the $500 tag, and will make you smile.

Exhaust is one-piece, so it's full system or chopping.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2012 | 12:24 PM
  #18  
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Cool, I'm more than happy with throttle response with Sport mode on, so don't feel a need for SprintBooster.
Probably doing torque arm bushings and intake for now.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2012 | 03:32 PM
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Ordered up the bushings and intake today - should be here early next week - holiday weekend delay.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2012 | 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by theta
Way's BPV (just about as good as Forge's BPV)
Are you talking about this BOV? I was looking at it just the other day, but it doesn't mention Countryman compatibility. Do you know if it works on the Countryman? It's much cheaper than the Forge BOV.
 
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