Can anyone give me sone guidance on installing a boost gauge? I will get the power from the cigarette lighter but not sure on how to tap in for the vacuum/boost.

 

A Few options. . .

http://www.waymotorworks.com/nm-boost-sensor-tap.html

http://www.waymotorworks.com/psiclone-adapter.html

 

Thank you sir.

 

If you don't want to run vacuum lines you can use an OBDII gauge to get boost. I use an Aeroforce Interceptor in my R56.

 

Im very familiar with the Interceptor gauges since I have one in my Lightning, I didnt know it read boost out of the box on the Mini since it doesnt on the truck. Thanks for the info.

 

In the reviews of the NM boost sensor tap it says it does not work with the countryman?

 

It does work, but only registers boost as the N18 runs little to no vac. I'm using the NM boost tap w/Autometer boost gauge and am also using Ultragauge for all the other vitals (it too shows boost)

 

I understand. Thanks for the info!

 

Boost taps are easy to install and monitor. I've got the Craven Speed setup in my car (for boost and Oil Pressure), the boost was way easy (easier if you've removed the airbox for an after market). If I were to do it again, I'd likely go with an OBDII based option just so I didn't have to run all the lines, but I do like physical gauges as they always look cool.

 

http://www.altaperformance.com/count...-w-boost-gauge

 

For those of you running a physical boost gauge, how difficult is it to run the lines into the cabin?

Also, is anyone aware of a gauge for exhaust gas temps? I image it would require drilling a hole in the manifold for a tap.

How did you run an oil pressure gauge? I thought there was no tap for an oil pressure gauge on the Countryman.

 

Easy enough, line just needs to run to an access panel on the drivers side of the engine bay (near the firewall). There's a rubber gasket that needs to be cut to allow the lines to run into the cabin.

Craven Speed has a tapless adapter that can be installed to provide access for the sender. It's a bit of a pain to install, but works.

 

Thanks, threar. I suspected you'd be one of the people to respond with useful info! My impression from reviewing the stuff available online is that you need to remove stuff around the center console to do the wiring. But those guides were for the R56. Is that true of the R60 as well?

Thanks for the link, threar. If you had to choose between oil pressure and oil temp, which do you think is the more critical diagnostic?

I'm thinking about doing a four-pod setup: Boost gauge, EGT, the gauge for the HFS-3 meth kit, and one more. I was thinking oil temp, but I suppose I could go with oil pressure. (I am going to use my UltraGauge for IAT, ambient temp, and water temp. Sadly, it does not report oil temp like my ScanGauge does.)

 

There is a bit of work on the center console to get power for the gauges. Basically you're tapping into the cigarette lighter's power in the center console. It's nothing too bad, I have notes on my blog for the install I did.

I've read a few things that say oil temperature is more useful (especially since if you lose oil pressure you're going to have all sorts of warning signs that something bad has happened). I went with oil pressure for no other reason than it seemed like a good idea at the time.

As much as I like the 4-pod setup, make sure it's going to fit. I have a 2-pod setup and seemed to be all that fit in the space. The Tach on the ALL4 is recessed into the dash board, giving very little space for anything else. You'll need a setup that pulls forward past the dash (which might look a bit awkward). If you've found a 4-pod setup that will work, I'd be very interested in looking at it.

 

As Threar mentioned, running line for boost gauge is pretty much snaking it through cowl and firewall.

For your EGT gauge, I contemplated Autometer's Pyrometer (match my boost gauge) It's a little pricey and yes you need to drill and tap a hole for the temp probe.

 

Thanks guys. Good stuff here.

threar: I was just looking at the CravenSpeed four-pod. I assumed it would fit. Bummer to hear it might not.

 

Hujan

i bought these

http://prosportgauges.com/45mm-gauges.aspx

45mm (1-3/4") diameter x 25mm (1") deep gauges from prosport, i got 5 of the 6 available, skipped the EGT

am still playing with a custom mount, but using cardboard, i have fit them 2 low left and right of tach and 3 high around the top of the tach ... all are clearly visible

have also played with an A pillar mount

scott

 

does anyone know where to tap the parking light in the 2013? i have took apart the shifter/lighter section multiple times and i just do not have that gray wire or the one that threar mentions.

 

The instructions say to use the gray wire, but as it turns out the gray wire only lights up when the car is in drive. Instead, I used the gray with red stripe wire for lighting (found in roughly the same place).

 

I can't find that connector pictured. I have the whole shifter cover taken off. There isn't anything near the lighter except the 2 lighter wires.

 

Can you guys post up your gauge setups? All im going to do is a boost gauge so will probably buy a single pod like this one.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/52mm-2-Universal-Car-Plastic-Heavy-Duty-Single-Gauge-Swivel-Pod-Mount-Holder-/290897362642?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43bad57ed2&vxp=mtr

 

custom mount. alta cup.

 

Nice cm.d. Do you have a writeup on how you did that?

 

I don't have a write up but real quick;
-aluminum flat bar (home depot)
--measure, bend, cut the flat bar to shape
--blacked the flat bar (camouflages it into the dash)
-longer screw (for the back of the tach) and a spacer for the screw or the flat bar will hit the back of the tach
-drill a hole for to attach the bar to the tach, drill one for the pod