R56 Break-in Period?
Break-in Period?
I'd like to know peoples opinions on this. When I picked up my car a few weeks ago I made it a point to ask about the break in period. My salesperson told me there was none and that I didn't have to worry about it. This is in line with other dealers as a friend, when getting his volvo a couple years ago, was told the same thing.
While not following his advice I am still amazed that dealerships tell people that these days? Being somewhat cynical, is this because it possibly generates more work for them as more issues could crop up if a car is not properly broken in? Or have they gotten so used to the 3 year lease cycle that most owners get rid of their cars and off to auction before the big problems arise?
While not following his advice I am still amazed that dealerships tell people that these days? Being somewhat cynical, is this because it possibly generates more work for them as more issues could crop up if a car is not properly broken in? Or have they gotten so used to the 3 year lease cycle that most owners get rid of their cars and off to auction before the big problems arise?
It's not necessarily the time length of the break-in period, but what you do that affects long term engine life.
Going through a few new cars, I'm a firm believer of keeping the RPM's low (typically under 4000 RPMs) for the first 1500 miles.
Also, during that time period you want to vary engine speed, as in don't use the cruise control on the highway.
Also, I'm a big supporter of changing out the engine oil & filter after 500 miles, then again at 1500 miles, and finally at 3000 miles.
It removes any of the metal filings during the "wear in" period and containinents during assembly.
After 1500 miles, feel free to bring the car to redline after the engine has reach normal operating temperatures.
Once at running temp, the engine can handle the rev's without a hicup.
- Erik
Going through a few new cars, I'm a firm believer of keeping the RPM's low (typically under 4000 RPMs) for the first 1500 miles.
Also, during that time period you want to vary engine speed, as in don't use the cruise control on the highway.
Also, I'm a big supporter of changing out the engine oil & filter after 500 miles, then again at 1500 miles, and finally at 3000 miles.
It removes any of the metal filings during the "wear in" period and containinents during assembly.
After 1500 miles, feel free to bring the car to redline after the engine has reach normal operating temperatures.
Once at running temp, the engine can handle the rev's without a hicup.
- Erik
I think I would have done 2 things:
1) Handed back my Key and said "yeah, ummm...I think I'll pass...YOU'RE A MORON!!"

2) Ask to speak to his Supervisor and say "Yeah...ummm...do you know...YOU'VE HIRED A MORON!!

These aren't the highest perfomance engines made, but to not recommend a Break In Period is simply asinine...I feel sorry for the uninformed MINI buyer who comes across this MA in the future...glad it wasn't me!!
1) Handed back my Key and said "yeah, ummm...I think I'll pass...YOU'RE A MORON!!"

2) Ask to speak to his Supervisor and say "Yeah...ummm...do you know...YOU'VE HIRED A MORON!!

These aren't the highest perfomance engines made, but to not recommend a Break In Period is simply asinine...I feel sorry for the uninformed MINI buyer who comes across this MA in the future...glad it wasn't me!!
Here's my take.
There are some things on a new car that need break in. Tires, brakes, the stereo...lol
As for the engine, you need to set and bed the rings. The only way to do that is cylinder pressure. Let the car warm up, then several full throttle pulls. Yes really. The rings are seated in the first 20-30 mins of running the engine on the street.
See http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
There are some things on a new car that need break in. Tires, brakes, the stereo...lol
As for the engine, you need to set and bed the rings. The only way to do that is cylinder pressure. Let the car warm up, then several full throttle pulls. Yes really. The rings are seated in the first 20-30 mins of running the engine on the street.
See http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
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Keeping the rpms low is actually what you do not want to do and does not prevent anything. The engine experiencing the rev range lets it get the heat it needs. You do not want to stay at a steady rpm above 4k (meaning holding it there) The wording in the manual is correct but it seems that is not read thoroughly and interprited as do not go above 4k etc etc. You want to let the motor climb through the revs to the rings can set with heat and not with out it.
There is still a break-in period, but to be honest, it's not as critical as it once was. If a buyer were totally unaware of the break-in procedure and just drove the car normally from day one, it wouldn't be the end of the world. You might lose a few potential horsepower, or the engine might burn a few extra ounces of oil between changes, but that would be the extent of it.
Up until 20 years ago or so, the break-in was much more important. I have a friend who absolutely *ruined* the cylinder walls on a new BMW because he bought it out-of-state, jumped right onto the highway, set the cruise control and drove a few hundred miles home without varying the engine speed or load at all. The rings never seated properly, and the engine was burning enough oil to leave a cloud behind the car before he even got it home. Now, with the advent of internet sales and the Web, people fly out of state to buy cars and then drive them right home all the time. Again, it's not the best break-in, but they're not going to need an engine rebuild in 10k miles, either.
Up until 20 years ago or so, the break-in was much more important. I have a friend who absolutely *ruined* the cylinder walls on a new BMW because he bought it out-of-state, jumped right onto the highway, set the cruise control and drove a few hundred miles home without varying the engine speed or load at all. The rings never seated properly, and the engine was burning enough oil to leave a cloud behind the car before he even got it home. Now, with the advent of internet sales and the Web, people fly out of state to buy cars and then drive them right home all the time. Again, it's not the best break-in, but they're not going to need an engine rebuild in 10k miles, either.
Here's one more vote for MotoMan's break in technique
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Well I prefer Motoman's break-in, however I blew it then because I took the book's advice for the first 600 miles. Now I am running it up the rmps a little. 1200 miles is way too long to take it easy for. Certainly not redlining it but take it a little over 5000 now and the car is so much more fun to drive.
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