Is there an online "How To" for changing the Countryman oil. One that shows the location of the oil filter, drain plug and such?

Thanks

 

Nope, but there is now! This should be all you need, complete with torque values.

R60 Oil Change

Enjoy!

 

minimania has a how to section on this topic

 

I can't seem to find it - if you have a link please post it. Might be easier than the service instructions.

 

Thanks for the google doc. Where is the oil filter located, I can't tell from the picture.

 

Hmm, let me see if I can find you a better look at that.

Found it here - give me a sec to upload it.

Here you go! It's below the coolant tank and coolant lines, etc. on the driver's side of the engine bay.

 

And for good measure, here's an exploded view of the filter assembly:

 

on the minimania website put your car year,model ect. into the my car section on the top right. go to the section on the left that has "maintenance and repair parts", click on "engine, drivetrain parts and maintenance", click on the oil filter replacement picture and it tells you all about replacment including tools and tricks to help not spilling oil everywhere in the description.

 

Here's the link he's talking about: http://new.minimania.com/web/Item/G2.../InvDetail.cfm

 

Thanks for the pictures. I went out and using your pictures I located it on my Countryman. Wow, is that a booger to get to. I would guess you would have to access it from below?

 

Nope, you either remove the air intake snorkel (not recommended), or follow the factory method of moving the coolant tank reservoir over.

You can do both if you have time, but it will add on another 30 minutes if you're a first-timer with the intake removal.

 

Thanks for this, the info there gives a great description and tips.

 

Just to have a record of it here:

"Note: The factory recommends removing the intake snorkel to access the filter, but some have found that moving the reservoir tank aside without removing the lines is an easier way to get access. You decide!

It helps if you 'loosen' the oil filter cannister while you drain the oil to allow the oil to drain out of the filter. You will spill less oil this way. To access the filter cannister, remove the washer reservoir (1 bolt) but not the hoses, and move it aside. Before you press the filter into the cannister cover, press it into the filter base 'all the way' and remove to prep the filter for proper seating. Now you can press filter into the cannister cover and install. Remember to use the new O-ring on the cannister cover - put a little oil on the new oil ring so it doesn't bind. Start the cannister cover by hand to avoid cross-threading. Don't forget to use the new crush washer on the oil pan drain plug. "

 

The Countryman engines are basically the same as the other 2nd Gen Minis right? The R56 forum has some excellent threads on how to change the oil. Here's a good link from one of them: http://www.flickr.com/photos/4154033...57624511602740

 

Not so much, but close. The Countryman uses the N18 engine, used only in new R56 and R60 chassis.

That link has some awesome pics, though! Looks similar enough to work great - thanks!

 

That link shows a justa engine so the main difference would be having to move the radiator reservoir out of the way to get to the oil filter because you have an air tube in the way with a turbo.

 

Yeah, that's an N14 without the turbo. The idea is the same with removing the filter, and the same general area for the drain plug.

If you piece together all of the info that's here, I know you'll be able to tackle it easily!

 

Thanks theta, i do not know how to add links or pictures. i've tried several times before with no success.

 

You can purchase your filters on e-bay (if you're in the US) for a good price from a Mini dealer in New Jersey.

Btw, last time I changed the oil I carefully moved the coolant reservoir out of the way and the hose connections started dripping. So keep your eye on that. Not good to get coolant dripping into the oil filter housing.

I also ditched the magnetic plug and went back to the OEM plug. Reason being that it is a very powerful magnet (rare earth) and was difficult to thread in and I am afraid of cross threading. It also stays in place when you back it out. You have to pull it off the oil pan. Plus, not all wear metals are ferrous. There was a trace of fine wear metal on it, btw. Not enough to concern me.

--Hobie

 

Same here, I got coolant all over the place. It's the hose underneath the reservoir - when it gets cockeyed from moving, the seal leaks.

I must have lost nearly a quart last time I moved it to replace the charge pipe.

 

i agree, most of the engine is aluminium or a metal that doesnt stick to magnets

 

i noticed if you take the cap off first it relieves residual pressure in the tank and then you can remove the small hose on top and plug it so you have less thing pulling on the fill tank when you move it out of the way. my bottom hose did not leak any.

 

That's good advice there - when I did the charge pipe, it got so bad that I did remove the top cap and side hose, which caused the air pressure to equalize.

The bottom hose leaked a little after that, but it was really caused by how far I had it stretched over. Knowing what I know now, I'd put a shop towel under the reservoir just in case - keeps things cleaner.