R50/53 Minis First Gear Lag and Driving in the Rain
Minis First Gear Lag and Driving in the Rain
I have a question and I'm hoping someone can answer it.
I had a 2006 Mini S (Checkmate Edition) that I loved, but....the car had a very odd first gear lag that drove me crazy and made driving in the rain difficult at times. (Living in Portland, OR - in the hills- that is a problem.) I switched out the pulley to a 15, but that really did absolutely nothing. I had run flats on the car as well as all-weather tires regular tires and nothing helped.
When I would start off in first gear the car would have this prolonged delay before it would go. When it would go, the car would take of like it was shot from a slingshot, which would cause the tires would to spin, and thus the car would not move. So either the car lagged and would not move or the car would suddenly get a burst of power and the tires would spin and wouldn't move.
Now my questions, do the turbo Minis also have this issue? What about the John Cooper Works versions?
I sold the 2006 Mini I had, but damn...I really miss the car.
I had a 2006 Mini S (Checkmate Edition) that I loved, but....the car had a very odd first gear lag that drove me crazy and made driving in the rain difficult at times. (Living in Portland, OR - in the hills- that is a problem.) I switched out the pulley to a 15, but that really did absolutely nothing. I had run flats on the car as well as all-weather tires regular tires and nothing helped.
When I would start off in first gear the car would have this prolonged delay before it would go. When it would go, the car would take of like it was shot from a slingshot, which would cause the tires would to spin, and thus the car would not move. So either the car lagged and would not move or the car would suddenly get a burst of power and the tires would spin and wouldn't move.
Now my questions, do the turbo Minis also have this issue? What about the John Cooper Works versions?
I sold the 2006 Mini I had, but damn...I really miss the car.
My old 2006 MCS had a similar issue, but ONLY when it was cold. Once warmed up, everything was fine. I had a tune done by RMW on the car, and it still did it. Never did figure out the issue as I totaled the car. I now have another 2006 MCS and it does not have any lag in 1st gear, cold or not. I wouldn't be afraid to get another R53 if that is what you prefer. Honestly, I'd much rather deal with a little lag in 1st gear than have to worry about the timing chain issues, carbon buildup, melting hood scoops and cartoon-like interior of the R56. But that's just my personal preference.
R56s also look kinda bloated. xD
My car does lag a bit when cold as well. I blamed it on the e-Throttle, which I still don't like, even with a SprintBooster. Once the car warms up it's fine. I did the VGS mod and it improved things somewhat. Though I suspect my BPV is on its way out.
Seriously, someone should come up with a throttle cable conversion kit for our cars. It'd be closer to delivering a flawless (still a long ways away ...) driving experience.
My car does lag a bit when cold as well. I blamed it on the e-Throttle, which I still don't like, even with a SprintBooster. Once the car warms up it's fine. I did the VGS mod and it improved things somewhat. Though I suspect my BPV is on its way out.
Seriously, someone should come up with a throttle cable conversion kit for our cars. It'd be closer to delivering a flawless (still a long ways away ...) driving experience.
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I also have a 2006 MCS, and for the first several years owning it I drove in and around Portland daily. I never had any of the problems you are describing, I still drive around the hills and things still work and perform great. What kind of RPMs were you engaging the clutch at to start with in 1st?
I also have a 2006 MCS, and for the first several years owning it I drove in and around Portland daily. I never had any of the problems you are describing, I still drive around the hills and things still work and perform great. What kind of RPMs were you engaging the clutch at to start with in 1st?
I just test drove a 2005 convertible (for my mom) and it did not have the 1st gear lag at all. ARGH!!
You ever complain to the dealer...
For several years they were handing out new software to try to fix the yoyo/lag...for free...some software worked for some cars, differant for others....it has to do with when the bypass valve closes, and the time it takes foe the computer to adjust from unboosted to boosted operation....
many folks used the vgs mod(vacume gain) to fix it...some used a newer oem bypass valve (2005+ vales have a stronger spring) or a dt tuned bypass valve, stronger yet.
you only have to live with the isdue if you are lazy...it is very fixable...differant techniques work on differant cars....
For several years they were handing out new software to try to fix the yoyo/lag...for free...some software worked for some cars, differant for others....it has to do with when the bypass valve closes, and the time it takes foe the computer to adjust from unboosted to boosted operation....
many folks used the vgs mod(vacume gain) to fix it...some used a newer oem bypass valve (2005+ vales have a stronger spring) or a dt tuned bypass valve, stronger yet.
you only have to live with the isdue if you are lazy...it is very fixable...differant techniques work on differant cars....
You ever complain to the dealer...
For several years they were handing out new software to try to fix the yoyo/lag...for free...some software worked for some cars, differant for others....it has to do with when the bypass valve closes, and the time it takes foe the computer to adjust from unboosted to boosted operation....
many folks used the vgs mod(vacume gain) to fix it...some used a newer oem bypass valve (2005+ vales have a stronger spring) or a dt tuned bypass valve, stronger yet.
you only have to live with the isdue if you are lazy...it is very fixable...differant techniques work on differant cars....
For several years they were handing out new software to try to fix the yoyo/lag...for free...some software worked for some cars, differant for others....it has to do with when the bypass valve closes, and the time it takes foe the computer to adjust from unboosted to boosted operation....
many folks used the vgs mod(vacume gain) to fix it...some used a newer oem bypass valve (2005+ vales have a stronger spring) or a dt tuned bypass valve, stronger yet.
you only have to live with the isdue if you are lazy...it is very fixable...differant techniques work on differant cars....
Are you sure it is just not the DSC (Dynamic Stabilty Control) kicking in to cut power to eliminate wheel spin. You should see the DSC light illuminate briefly on the dash when the DSC kicks in. I get that frequently in the rain when I accelerate a little too hard.
With an electronic throttle system, the throttle body acts on commands from the ECM to move the throttle plate with no input from the driver in order to maintain idle under various conditions.
At any rate, when my car was tuned, one of the options was a more "direct" throttle. A tweak of the ECM and the throttle pedal moved the throttle plate as if it were cable actuated.
Code a translator for the ECU harness to actuate the IAC. :D
It's pretty sad when my cousin's '03 Nissan Xterra has better throttle response than my MINI ... All modern cars are like this, though. My brother's '05 Merc C230K is the same.
It's pretty sad when my cousin's '03 Nissan Xterra has better throttle response than my MINI ... All modern cars are like this, though. My brother's '05 Merc C230K is the same.
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