2006 MCS.
Seems like it lugs at 2,100 rpm.
Is the lowest recommended rpm closer to 2.500? and normal cruising at 3,000?

It seems ready to RUN like a rabbit at 3,000.

How can I tell if the Pulley has been changed? and if it has, how will I know if it is a 15% reduction or 17/19%? Can I tell by the Belt?

Also, we have the stock radio, the Phone Controls on the steering wheel, auxiliary plug in the glove box. Does this mean we also have bluetooth connectivity?
We have tried to sync the i-phone. Is there something else we need to buy that will hook up easily without pulling the radio out of the dash?

 

If I am driving slowly around town, I shift at 2500 ish as I read somewhere that is an efficient point. As for the 3000 rpm, its a small engine, takes some rpm to make power.

 

Cruising needs some rpms for the sc to make boost....that is why it runs great 3000 rpm+...below that tge bypass valve is closed, and you are running without boost...
i find below 2500 or maybe 2000 rpms, unless it is flat, and i am just cruise accelerating, i'll downsshift to prevent lugging.
stock pulley is hot pressed on steel...black, no bolt holes.
Aftermarket is usually cnc machined, with bolt holes, usually shiney.
A pulley will get you more boost at a lower rpm if that is your driving style, but remember to save fuel, and reduce idle fuel needed, the bypass valve opens, venting the sc boost below 2000 rpm or so (actually based upon vacume level, so a guess)...there are vacume boost mods to help shut the valve sooner, or valves with stronger springs sold (detroit tuned), but both can cause a loss of smoothness when they transition, and and cost mpg.

 

Blutooth conectivity on a gen1 mini (you have one) was a very $$$ optiin, and while the buttons were provided, the kits/installs did not happen till much later...the kit is prettt iffy for the $$$....blutparrot makes a kit that with the proper adaptor will work with the buttons for a fraction of the price. The aux jax is just that....an aux jack for a mp3 player, etc...was a simple to install option. An ipod adaptor was also an option for the same location, but controls through the radio were pretty basic (radio is pretty old desgin wise, and predates the mp3, bluetooth, and iphone, so it works, but not great).

 

PS
I have a 17% reduction....for lower rpm drivers (non track, non redlining) it is a great option...help get you even more zip around 3000 (maybe a bit lower as the bypass vale closes)rather than no pulley, which is closer to 3300-3500

 

Great answers. Thank you..

 

Honestly when I'm just driving normally I'm always below 2k. I try to be in 6th whenever I can. If I need to accelerate I just down shift and then find my way back to sixth.

 

This is what I do as well

 

It's hard to go below 2000 RPM when we're at 2,500 RPM at around 45-50 MPH.

I also have a 17% reduction pulley. Single greatest thing I've done to the car with the exception of the rear swaybar. My MPGs did drop, but not as much as I thought. Before my pulley I got around 31-32 MPG combined. I'm around the 28-30 range now, but I drive like a grandmother if I'm not autocrossing.

By the way, a pulley a must for autocrossing. Gives you so much more low-end grunt.

 

every driver needs to find their comfort zone

and GEN1 cars changed many times especially in terms of gearing

I had a very early 02-S and I found that getting anywhere below 2500 not only caused a loss of response but lower MPG.

Until I was going 60 I never thought about 6th gear

First time I walked into a dealership in Oct 2002 they tossed me two sets of keys

one is for the plain and the other is for the S, slip the clutch or you won't get out of the lot

Dunno how to intentionally slip? Well, I guess you won't get the 100,000 plus miles out of a clutch I do . . .

 

^So are you suggesting that I'd get better MPG if I kept the RPM's above 2k?

 

When I'm just cruising around, trying to get the best fuel MPG possible...I'll usually shift around 2000rpms, and try to get it in 6th as soon as possible. I don't let it just under 1500rpms, under that......there just isn't any power at all.

If I'm actually wanting to have the car feel like it's meant to feel, and have some power on tap, I'll shift at around 4000rpms, and try not to let it fall under 3000rpms......but that's just if I know I'll need some good power soon, like when getting on to the highway, or pulling out in traffic.

Usually I'll just baby it...and try to get it in 6th if I can. Just like any other car....the quicker you can get it in the highest gear and leave it there...the more MPG you are going to make. I'm not saying run it around at 1000rpms in 6th......but I'll try to keep it between 1800-2500 if possible.

 

WAIT WHAT?! You got to set's of keys for two different power conditions on the MINI S?


Or am I reading this as you bought a base model and a S at the same time?


I'm guessing the latter is correct, but the first time I read it was the first statement.