JCW Upgrades for 2009 Factory JCW?
Upgrades for 2009 Factory JCW?
I'm about to pull the trigger on a 2009 Mini Cooper S with Factory JCW and about 7200 miles on it.
What's the next step? I've had turbo cars before, typically buy a tuner, take it to a tuning shop and have them turn up the boost and dyno-tune the car.
How's it work with these minis? Is it the same? What tuner do I get, how much boost is still very reliable? How much power can I expect reliably?
I'm not looking for a super-car, but an extra dyno-proven 20whp would be fantastic.
Thanks
What's the next step? I've had turbo cars before, typically buy a tuner, take it to a tuning shop and have them turn up the boost and dyno-tune the car.
How's it work with these minis? Is it the same? What tuner do I get, how much boost is still very reliable? How much power can I expect reliably?
I'm not looking for a super-car, but an extra dyno-proven 20whp would be fantastic.
Thanks
Yes there is tuning available for your new MINI, but you need to replace all your hard parts such as intercoolers and exhausts before getting a tune.
We do custom dyno tuning if you bring the car to our Atlanta shop.
We do custom dyno tuning if you bring the car to our Atlanta shop.
I must have misunderstood you. It sounds like you just said I have to upgrade my intercooler and exhaust before I can get a tune?
Having had many tunes on my 2009 JCW, go with the Alta tune (which is from Cobb) or call Way to see what tune he is selling. I assure you he won’t sell you stuff you don’t need. With both of these companies, you’ll get great customer service.
HTH’s,
Mark
Bits, you'll find that the OEM intercooler heatsoaks very quickly even in stock trim.
Adding an AccessPort tune will only exaggerate that condition due to higher boost output.
Grab yourself a quality intercooler than reduces the charge temperature.
Also, consider an oil catch can and block-off port to remove / reduce oil vapor from the valve cover into the intake manifold.
Due to the direct injection, the intake valves (based on some factors) will produce carbon build due to oil vapor and not getting the engine to running temp.
- Erik
Adding an AccessPort tune will only exaggerate that condition due to higher boost output.
Grab yourself a quality intercooler than reduces the charge temperature.
Also, consider an oil catch can and block-off port to remove / reduce oil vapor from the valve cover into the intake manifold.
Due to the direct injection, the intake valves (based on some factors) will produce carbon build due to oil vapor and not getting the engine to running temp.
- Erik
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Cool thanks for the tips.
That makes a lot of sense. Step 1 for me is just software, I don't want to do too much until warranty is up.
Maybe exhaust, turbo-back is probably best for faster spool up. Any suggestions?
That makes a lot of sense. Step 1 for me is just software, I don't want to do too much until warranty is up.
Maybe exhaust, turbo-back is probably best for faster spool up. Any suggestions?
angryBits,
Where are you located? If you haven't done so I'd highly suggest finding a local club if you have one. You'll then have the chance to talk to lots of people who've made these changes. I'd agree with blue in most climates but in Seattle, where I am at, an Intercooler isn't as critical before the AP IMO. I did both though, on a Factory JCW Clubman, along with the Alta BOV spring. Other than that I've done the rear swaybar and endlinks, dumped the RF tires, and a number of other cosmetic bits. I plan to install coilovers soon as well.
Todd
Where are you located? If you haven't done so I'd highly suggest finding a local club if you have one. You'll then have the chance to talk to lots of people who've made these changes. I'd agree with blue in most climates but in Seattle, where I am at, an Intercooler isn't as critical before the AP IMO. I did both though, on a Factory JCW Clubman, along with the Alta BOV spring. Other than that I've done the rear swaybar and endlinks, dumped the RF tires, and a number of other cosmetic bits. I plan to install coilovers soon as well.
Todd
Many of the other bolt on wouldn't void the powertrain warranty, but programming edits or modifications do.
- Erik
Yes, the intercooler doesn’t make more HP...it merely allows you to keep the HP you have so you don’t lose it due to heatsoak.
This is much more noticeable on a track than on the street.
Point is, if I were to start from scratch, my first two items would be tune and exhaust.
As far as tune, the dealer can’t void your warranty just because you have a tune... only if something goes wrong (and even at that, they have to prove it was the cause... been there, done that)
Mark
This is much more noticeable on a track than on the street.
Point is, if I were to start from scratch, my first two items would be tune and exhaust.
As far as tune, the dealer can’t void your warranty just because you have a tune... only if something goes wrong (and even at that, they have to prove it was the cause... been there, done that)
Mark
I'm in San Francisco, heat soak isn't AS much of an issue. Summers here are 65 degrees
Most of my driving is on the street. I'm coming from a 2011 Mustang GT 5.0 - which I recently dyno'd at 381rwhp. I'm not looking for THAT much power, but I do want as much reliable fun as I can squeeze.
I don't mind spending some $$$, as long as its safe power and no warranty fuss.
Most of my driving is on the street. I'm coming from a 2011 Mustang GT 5.0 - which I recently dyno'd at 381rwhp. I'm not looking for THAT much power, but I do want as much reliable fun as I can squeeze.I don't mind spending some $$$, as long as its safe power and no warranty fuss.
I'm in San Francisco, heat soak isn't AS much of an issue. Summers here are 65 degrees
Most of my driving is on the street. I'm coming from a 2011 Mustang GT 5.0 - which I recently dyno'd at 381rwhp. I'm not looking for THAT much power, but I do want as much reliable fun as I can squeeze.
I don't mind spending some $$$, as long as its safe power and no warranty fuss.
Most of my driving is on the street. I'm coming from a 2011 Mustang GT 5.0 - which I recently dyno'd at 381rwhp. I'm not looking for THAT much power, but I do want as much reliable fun as I can squeeze.I don't mind spending some $$$, as long as its safe power and no warranty fuss.
Knowing the dealer can’t void my warranty, I took my car in with the tunes in place all the time. Even when I kept melting valvecovers and BMW/MINI voided my drivetrain warranty, I fought them and they had to reinstate my warranty because they could not prove my tune caused the problems I was having. (which it turns out it had nothing to do with my tune)
You’ll love the tune.
Mark
I did a carfax on the car and it said "2009 MINI COOPER JCW GP KIT"
Kit... that sounds like it's not factory, but I wouldn't think they would even put JCW on the carfax if it was a dealer installed JCW, so I'm confused.
Anyone here with a factory JCW wanna plug their vin into the free carfax and tell me what they get?
Thanks
Kit... that sounds like it's not factory, but I wouldn't think they would even put JCW on the carfax if it was a dealer installed JCW, so I'm confused.
Anyone here with a factory JCW wanna plug their vin into the free carfax and tell me what they get?
Thanks
- Erik
http://realoem.com/bmw/select.do
Put in the last 7 numbers of your VIN where it says "serial number", then hit search. That will show you the build specification of your car, as it left the factory. For example, mine shows
You Have Selected: 06/2008 R56 Coop.S JCW Coupe N14 Europe Right hand drive N
If yours was a stock MCS, later fitted with the kit, it will show it as an MCS
Robbo
To tell if yours if a factory JCW or not, go to the realoem website
http://realoem.com/bmw/select.do
Put in the last 7 numbers of your VIN where it says "serial number", then hit search. That will show you the build specification of your car, as it left the factory. For example, mine shows
You Have Selected: 06/2008 R56 Coop.S JCW Coupe N14 Europe Right hand drive N
If yours was a stock MCS, later fitted with the kit, it will show it as an MCS
Robbo
http://realoem.com/bmw/select.do
Put in the last 7 numbers of your VIN where it says "serial number", then hit search. That will show you the build specification of your car, as it left the factory. For example, mine shows
You Have Selected: 06/2008 R56 Coop.S JCW Coupe N14 Europe Right hand drive N
If yours was a stock MCS, later fitted with the kit, it will show it as an MCS
Robbo
I'm in San Francisco, heat soak isn't AS much of an issue. Summers here are 65 degrees
Most of my driving is on the street. I'm coming from a 2011 Mustang GT 5.0 - which I recently dyno'd at 381rwhp. I'm not looking for THAT much power, but I do want as much reliable fun as I can squeeze.
I don't mind spending some $$$, as long as its safe power and no warranty fuss.
Most of my driving is on the street. I'm coming from a 2011 Mustang GT 5.0 - which I recently dyno'd at 381rwhp. I'm not looking for THAT much power, but I do want as much reliable fun as I can squeeze.I don't mind spending some $$$, as long as its safe power and no warranty fuss.
Thanks, I don't have the car yet, I'll let you know when I get it.
Saved by CarFax!
So I'm on the hunt again. I'm thinking about buying a new one when the 2012s come out. I hear they come with the Aero Kit standard.
The 2012s are available and they do come with the aero kit. I debated building one or going with a used 09 JCW for a really good price, locally. I went used for monetary reasons, then 3 days later got a surprised raise and promotion at work. Doh! Could have definitely gotten a new one. Oh well. I'm still happy with the 09 regardless. It has fairly low mileage at 15k.







