After months of testing and a redesign the Forge BOV/Diverter Valve kit has shown to be what we think is the best Diverter Valve replacement for the R55, R56, and R57 Turbo MINI Cooper S. The Forge valve and installation kit replaces the original unit with a pressure/vacuum operated piston valve that still also retains the desirable OEM ECU control over valve actuation. We found this valve to build boost much smoother and hold it much better than the OEM valve, or any other aftermarket valve. The valve is a complete perfect machined aluminum valve with a dual sealed piston. The spring in the valve is replaceable to tune it for the amount of boost you are running with or without a tune. The ECU controls the valve through the stock Diverter valve connector using an electric solenoid valve to control the boost/vacuum acting on the piston in the valve.

 

I purchased this D/V from Way and it works great. I have a 2009 factory JCW and my stock D/V was not working properly much of the time. The difference between the stock D/V and this D/V is huge. I have the Cobb A/P and run a Stage 3 map on my JCW and I would not give this D/V back for twice the price if my only option was to go back to stock D/V.

 

Does this kit fit the 2011 Cooper S models with the updated engine?

 

Yes it fits the 2011, the oil line does make it a little harder to install.

 

Which spring should I use on the Forge Bov? OEM or yellow?? Looking for performance but do not want to overdue it...

 

I recommend starting with the spring that came in the valve and testing it out first, then later you can change it and decide which one you like better. You really won't need the other spring unless you up the boost first.

 

Just wondering if this valve sounds any different. Installed mine today, and it chops: Psh Psh Psh when it recirculates the boost. Sounds like it is coming from the alta intake not from a leak. Just wondering and thanks in advance for the help..

 

make sure the hoses are not kinked anywhere, I could see that causing some sort of noise. I just installed this MOD yesterday and it seems to be working great, I hear a bit more of a whistle sound which I think is normal..Hope this helps..BTW what spring did you use, I used the green the one that came in the BOV..Reason I ask is I am wondering if I should switch out and try the stiffer spring???

 

I was using the yellow spring and saw boost pressures of 19 PSI+.
I switched back to the green spring for a little detuning and have still seen 17 PSI.
Just trying to be a little nicer to the motor and not stress it as much, Good luck.

 

I will stay w/green spring as well...

 

I'm running on the stiffer spring (yellow).
What are the disadvantages of running a stiffer spring on stock boost?

 

The only disadvantage I can see is you produce more boost, power (good), although you are also producing more pressure on the pistons, which could lead to premature engine damage (bad). Good luck.

 

Thanks for your response. Correct my if I'm wrong, I had the impression that the boost pressure was controlled electronically by the ECU, how does it relate to the spring compression rate..

 

The boost pressure is cut off by the ECU at around 22 PSI on stock vehicles, other than that, the spring rate of the stock DV controls boost, but that can be circumvented if you have your car tuned.
Stiffer springs will allow the diverter valve to remain closed longer resulting in higher boost pressures.
I have read of some cars running 28 PSI or more, but you want to make sure your cars engine is built to withstand those kinds of pressures.

 

Just pulled the trigger on this mod. Hope I like it.

 

Looks exactly like the MKV GTi units. I wonder if they fitment is similar since they are like $80 DVs on golfmkv vs $2XX new.

 

GREAT, Please let us know what you think once you get it installed, since you already have a modified valve it will be a good comparison.

 

I've been running this valve all summer. The faster response definitely seems to hold boost better through shifts. Twice I've gotten P28AA codes indicating a bypass valve error. I'm using the yellow spring and an Alta stage 3 accessport tune. Should I try the green spring? Would it have any impact on initial boost spikes hitting the boost cut threshold?

 

Since you said the CEL came on twice, did you turn it off yourself or did it just disappear after a while?

 

Once I cleared it using the accessport and the other time I cleared it using the info button.

 

Anyone else got something to share about this? WMW? I am sure many people would be interested to learn more about this potential issue with the Forge BOV Kit. Thanks!

 

With that code I would make sure the connector is plugged in all the way. We've had to trim the tab off the connectors to get them plugged in sometimes. Otherwise I would test it without the tune and see what happens.

 

Thanks for the tip. I'll check that tomorrow. A loose connection would make sense. I did notice when I installed the valve that the connector engagement wasn't quite the same as the OEM valve.

 

I had to trim the tab off of the connector to get it to seat properly.
I didn't get any cels or codes, but I didn't get proper valve function until I had a good electrical connection

 

anyone have a sound clip of the bov