Apprehensive about First Wash & Wax
Apprehensive about First Wash & Wax
So many of the cars I see have nasty scratch swirls. Do they come from using "the wrong" wash cloths? What is the best material to use so that the finish remains pristine? Also, please advise on a good and not over-priced wax. Finally, a lot of black dust seems to collect on the exhaust pipes. Is this normal for a brand new MINI? OH, and what about keeping the wheels clean. While it may seem that I am new to car maintenance, I am not. I am, however, new to "best MINI appearance." Thanks in advance for your replies.
I'd suggest you head over to the detailing forum. In particular, search around for info on the two bucket system. Might want to start with the stickied thread on car washing for the non-OC. Just realize that if you read that thread, you will be taking your first step toward OCD (though you may already be on your way based on your question!).
As for wax, if you're looking for something available locally, you can grab Meguiar's NXT 2.0, Meguiar's Ultimate wax or their Gold Class wax. If you want something more high end, you can go to Show Car Detailing's website or Detailer's Domain to find some great stuff. I also like Chemical Guys, they have very well priced waxes. Search the forum to find lots of great suggestions.
Vendor & Moderator :: MINI Camera and Video & c3 club forum
iTrader: (6)
The question is...where do swirls come from?
The answer is..from touching your car.
The usual rebuttal is..."But I use microfiber" or "I use the two bucket wash method" or "I use the local hand wash" or "I've been detailing for 20 years and I know paint..."
So here's the honest truth. If your car is absolutely pristine, and you never touch your car, never let anyone touch your car, don't expose it to the elements, basically make it live inside a vacuum, how do you think the paint will look in 10 years? It will look the same as day 1.
Since we like to drive our cars and show them off, the problem must have something to do with our cleaning/maintenance methods.
A dirty microfiber towel will cause scratches and swirls...yes that towel you dropped on the floor and threw in the washer can still cause scratches. Bad technique while washing, such as dipping the mitt in soapy water and then trying to soap up the whole car without rinsing it is bad. Using a sponge where dirt on the paint is trapped between the sponge and your paint will scratch....more obviously...taking your car to the dealer or the local car wash will also cause scratches and swirls.
Combine good technique with good products and you'll have a winning combination.
The second best way to wash your car is (I'm reserving the #1 best way for later) with a REAL lambs wool wash mitt, properly mixed soap to water, properly filled buckets of wash solution, and proper rinsing of the vehicle.
The #1 best way is nearly touchless using a high powered pressure washer and a foam cannon along with good quality soap such as Meguiar's Hyper Wash..not the touchless found at the local car wash that uses high pH soaps... However, I won't get into that, because it's costly to set up, and for many people, dragging a pressure washer from their garage isn't an option.
re: Wax
What is overpriced to you? $25? $50? $10,000?
A good wax will offer excellent protection, great looks, and ease of use. You should choose a natural or synthetic wax based on the color of your paint. Darker paints look great with a carnauba or synthetic. White or silver paints look best with synthetics. Prima Epic is a great wax that offers a rich look that's durable and easy to use and runs about $23 for a bottle that will last for years.
re: Exhaust pipes
The carbon found on the exhausts is common. Clean it with a metal polish and keep it maintained.
re: Not new to car maintenance
I don't really understand this. The best MINI appearance will apply to all cars. The best products on a black MINI will also look great on a black Porsche or black M3 or black Lambo.
What's more important are:
1.) Your paint color
2.) Is your MINI garaged or parked outdoors at night?3
3.) Who washes it?
4.) What part of the country do you live in?
5.) Can you tell the difference between a hard shine and a warm one?
Richard
The answer is..from touching your car.
The usual rebuttal is..."But I use microfiber" or "I use the two bucket wash method" or "I use the local hand wash" or "I've been detailing for 20 years and I know paint..."
So here's the honest truth. If your car is absolutely pristine, and you never touch your car, never let anyone touch your car, don't expose it to the elements, basically make it live inside a vacuum, how do you think the paint will look in 10 years? It will look the same as day 1.
Since we like to drive our cars and show them off, the problem must have something to do with our cleaning/maintenance methods.
A dirty microfiber towel will cause scratches and swirls...yes that towel you dropped on the floor and threw in the washer can still cause scratches. Bad technique while washing, such as dipping the mitt in soapy water and then trying to soap up the whole car without rinsing it is bad. Using a sponge where dirt on the paint is trapped between the sponge and your paint will scratch....more obviously...taking your car to the dealer or the local car wash will also cause scratches and swirls.
Combine good technique with good products and you'll have a winning combination.
The second best way to wash your car is (I'm reserving the #1 best way for later) with a REAL lambs wool wash mitt, properly mixed soap to water, properly filled buckets of wash solution, and proper rinsing of the vehicle.
The #1 best way is nearly touchless using a high powered pressure washer and a foam cannon along with good quality soap such as Meguiar's Hyper Wash..not the touchless found at the local car wash that uses high pH soaps... However, I won't get into that, because it's costly to set up, and for many people, dragging a pressure washer from their garage isn't an option.
re: Wax
What is overpriced to you? $25? $50? $10,000?
A good wax will offer excellent protection, great looks, and ease of use. You should choose a natural or synthetic wax based on the color of your paint. Darker paints look great with a carnauba or synthetic. White or silver paints look best with synthetics. Prima Epic is a great wax that offers a rich look that's durable and easy to use and runs about $23 for a bottle that will last for years.
re: Exhaust pipes
The carbon found on the exhausts is common. Clean it with a metal polish and keep it maintained.
re: Not new to car maintenance
I don't really understand this. The best MINI appearance will apply to all cars. The best products on a black MINI will also look great on a black Porsche or black M3 or black Lambo.
What's more important are:
1.) Your paint color
2.) Is your MINI garaged or parked outdoors at night?3
3.) Who washes it?
4.) What part of the country do you live in?
5.) Can you tell the difference between a hard shine and a warm one?
Richard
So many of the cars I see have nasty scratch swirls. Do they come from using "the wrong" wash cloths? What is the best material to use so that the finish remains pristine? Also, please advise on a good and not over-priced wax. Finally, a lot of black dust seems to collect on the exhaust pipes. Is this normal for a brand new MINI? OH, and what about keeping the wheels clean. While it may seem that I am new to car maintenance, I am not. I am, however, new to "best MINI appearance." Thanks in advance for your replies.
I use Turtle Wax ICE, and highly recommend it because it's a clear liquid, branded on the fact that it doesn't leave any white residue which is a +1 for MINI drivers with the plastic molding around the wheels and bumpers. The packaging actually says it's safe for all materials,including vinyl, and safe to use in direct sunlight.
As for the tailpipe, mine is black. I try to wipe it down during normal cleaning routine.
And for the wheels, it's hard to keep them clean because the brake dust is inevitable. I've heard that certain brands of brake pads will reduce brake dust, but it also depends on how you drive and where you drive. I've noticed that if I put a thin layer of that turtle wax ICE on my wheels, it not only gives them a nice shine, but also makes the brake dust come off MUCH easier.
As for the tailpipe, mine is black. I try to wipe it down during normal cleaning routine.
And for the wheels, it's hard to keep them clean because the brake dust is inevitable. I've heard that certain brands of brake pads will reduce brake dust, but it also depends on how you drive and where you drive. I've noticed that if I put a thin layer of that turtle wax ICE on my wheels, it not only gives them a nice shine, but also makes the brake dust come off MUCH easier.
http://www.adamspolishes.com/t-videos.aspx
Watch those videos, These apply to all vehicles. Adams polishes are Amazing and am hooked. You even get a NAM discount! As for helping with brake dust you can clay,wax and seal the rims. I am about to break out the polisher & wax on my Mini next week. Quality products and technique are key to keeping your car as pristine as it can possibly be (If its your DD). Two Bucket method, With Grit Guard and 2 Quality Wash mits (one for top half and one for bottom) You will also need to spend some money on some quality drying towels and making sure to to flip them constantly. As soon as you see dirt flip them and remember; once it hits the ground they are essentually ruined and need to be exiled to door jams and engine bays. For the ultimate in preventing swirls is a foam cannon and a high power car dryer.
As for keeping wax of the plastics just tape it off. It Takes an extra 15 minutes. I suggest coming on over to www.adamsforums.com and they will get you squared away. This is actually a pretty common question over there. Definetly watch those videos too, Even if you choose not to use adams the same techniques can be applied with other quality products.
You have to decide how important keeping your car clean and swirl free is to you. For me its probably my 4th biggest expense in my life. Ive become quite OCD about it and spend an absolute fortune on my products. But, it shows!
Im actually about to drop $320 bucks on a MasterBlaster Air Dryer just because i dont want to risk swirling up my freshly paint corrected finish
Watch those videos, These apply to all vehicles. Adams polishes are Amazing and am hooked. You even get a NAM discount! As for helping with brake dust you can clay,wax and seal the rims. I am about to break out the polisher & wax on my Mini next week. Quality products and technique are key to keeping your car as pristine as it can possibly be (If its your DD). Two Bucket method, With Grit Guard and 2 Quality Wash mits (one for top half and one for bottom) You will also need to spend some money on some quality drying towels and making sure to to flip them constantly. As soon as you see dirt flip them and remember; once it hits the ground they are essentually ruined and need to be exiled to door jams and engine bays. For the ultimate in preventing swirls is a foam cannon and a high power car dryer.
As for keeping wax of the plastics just tape it off. It Takes an extra 15 minutes. I suggest coming on over to www.adamsforums.com and they will get you squared away. This is actually a pretty common question over there. Definetly watch those videos too, Even if you choose not to use adams the same techniques can be applied with other quality products.
You have to decide how important keeping your car clean and swirl free is to you. For me its probably my 4th biggest expense in my life. Ive become quite OCD about it and spend an absolute fortune on my products. But, it shows!

Im actually about to drop $320 bucks on a MasterBlaster Air Dryer just because i dont want to risk swirling up my freshly paint corrected finish
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Impressive
Thank you for all the good information and pertinent advice. I really appreciate the thoroughness you all put in your replies. What an impressive forum. Again, many thanks and Happy Motoring!
I would recommend Cquartz.
Phil at Detailers Domain has it for sale.
http://detailersdomain.com/carcarepr...roCquartz.html
It adds some level of scratch protection.
It still comes down to your washing and drying though.
If you want a awesome sealant wax combo I would try the Blackfire Wet Diamond Midnight Sun.
Phil at Detailers Domain has it for sale.
http://detailersdomain.com/carcarepr...roCquartz.html
It adds some level of scratch protection.
It still comes down to your washing and drying though.
If you want a awesome sealant wax combo I would try the Blackfire Wet Diamond Midnight Sun.
I would recommend Cquartz.
Phil at Detailers Domain has it for sale.
http://detailersdomain.com/carcarepr...roCquartz.html
It adds some level of scratch protection.
Phil at Detailers Domain has it for sale.
http://detailersdomain.com/carcarepr...roCquartz.html
It adds some level of scratch protection.




I would recommend Cquartz.
Phil at Detailers Domain has it for sale.
http://detailersdomain.com/carcarepr...roCquartz.html
It adds some level of scratch protection.
It still comes down to your washing and drying though.
If you want a awesome sealant wax combo I would try the Blackfire Wet Diamond Midnight Sun.
Phil at Detailers Domain has it for sale.
http://detailersdomain.com/carcarepr...roCquartz.html
It adds some level of scratch protection.
It still comes down to your washing and drying though.
If you want a awesome sealant wax combo I would try the Blackfire Wet Diamond Midnight Sun.
That looks like some pretty awesome stuff! Just what I'm looking for. Although I'd be apprehensive about applying it myself, I'm not far from Dealers Domain, so I may have to inquire about that with them. Also, I wonder how, if it's possible, to get that stuff off
In the last video with that blade the guy swiping wasnt even coming close to the paint and then when he did it on the "unprotected" part he was gouging it.

I say snake oil. this seems like the same stuff that dealers tried to sell people way back in the day as the perfect paint protection. I feel like these people got a hold of it and made a "consumer" version of it. And also, scratch protection? Cmon if this was really something that worked why wouldnt car manufactures automatically put it on the cars.
In the last video with that blade the guy swiping wasnt even coming close to the paint and then when he did it on the "unprotected" part he was gouging it.

In the last video with that blade the guy swiping wasnt even coming close to the paint and then when he did it on the "unprotected" part he was gouging it.


I did think that blade video was a little off like you noted, but to be fair, in the first scratch test video with the pad or whatever it was, the "coated" side did show some minor imperfections after being scratched, so it doesn't prevent 100%, but does provide a barrier. I still think it's worth finding out about
I did think that blade video was a little off like you noted, but to be fair, in the first scratch test video with the pad or whatever it was, the "coated" side did show some minor imperfections after being scratched, so it doesn't prevent 100%, but does provide a barrier. I still think it's worth finding out about 

There are a ton of threads on Detailing World and the Autogeek forums from people like me who have used Cquartz. If you don't live far from Phil maybe you should stop by and talk with him.
I don't think Phil would sell something that doesn't work as advertised.
I don't think Phil would sell something that doesn't work as advertised.
Here is a quote from our resident detailer over on the thread "Found best wax"
He hit all the points.
He hit all the points.
CQ isn't the miracle product that people claim it is....I've used it on several cars and application is a PIA, especially on soft paint..which would seem ideal to use it on. One of the cars, we did CQ twice on, the first time we tried it and got zebra stripes, I had to compound it off and redo the application. After a month, the owner had his brother wash the car knowing he doesn't know how to do it right. I saw the aftermath last weekend and it wasn't pretty. Towel scratches everywhere under direct sunlight, although it still beaded up and resisted water well.
Yes, there are people that love it, but there is a reason that it's recommended to be applied by professionals. As has been mentioned, I was once involved with the development of Nanoskin Diamond Shield..which is a similar product to CQ..but you spray it on. IMO, a much more user friendly way but it's extremely toxic and not great for the environment. I fully corrected a Nissan GTR, a car with ultra soft paint, and the Nanoskin guys did the application...the owner immediately went to trash the car with car washes and abuse, and a week later...the car looked worse than when he first brought it to me...did the product work? Turned out that because of the soft paint, Diamond Shield helped make the paint harder, but it still required proper care..it couldn't be abused.
Lately, I've had the pleasure of seeing many of my cars come back after months of owner maintenance and they still look as great as the day I worked on them with Prima. Proper maintenance and good technique is everything when it comes to keeping a perfect finish. I haven't polished my paint in 8 months and my daily driver still has a near perfect finish...it has some slight marring that happened shortly after my last polish for MITM in August of last year. CQ wouldn't make my paint look any better, though it might up the level of protection a bit, but at what cost? I don't want to have to fully buff my car to remove CQ.
My 2 cents!
p.s.
What is a Polish Wax??? lol.
Richard
Yes, there are people that love it, but there is a reason that it's recommended to be applied by professionals. As has been mentioned, I was once involved with the development of Nanoskin Diamond Shield..which is a similar product to CQ..but you spray it on. IMO, a much more user friendly way but it's extremely toxic and not great for the environment. I fully corrected a Nissan GTR, a car with ultra soft paint, and the Nanoskin guys did the application...the owner immediately went to trash the car with car washes and abuse, and a week later...the car looked worse than when he first brought it to me...did the product work? Turned out that because of the soft paint, Diamond Shield helped make the paint harder, but it still required proper care..it couldn't be abused.
Lately, I've had the pleasure of seeing many of my cars come back after months of owner maintenance and they still look as great as the day I worked on them with Prima. Proper maintenance and good technique is everything when it comes to keeping a perfect finish. I haven't polished my paint in 8 months and my daily driver still has a near perfect finish...it has some slight marring that happened shortly after my last polish for MITM in August of last year. CQ wouldn't make my paint look any better, though it might up the level of protection a bit, but at what cost? I don't want to have to fully buff my car to remove CQ.
My 2 cents!
p.s.
What is a Polish Wax??? lol.
Richard
I can't comment on the Nanoskin product. But i can tell you that if CQ can reduce the amount of scratches it's worth every penny. I have 2 coats of my 2011 GTI and I have plans of putting 2 coats on Clubman. Starting with a flawless surface is required. It also requires any previous LSP or polish residue removed before applying. As with anything do a little research before choosing any LSP. Check out some of the detailing forums.
Detailing bliss is good.
Detailing world is a great site.
Autogeek has Mike Phillips.
Stay away from Autopia they got hacked a couple months back.
Adams polishes has the junkman, adam and dylan who will answer any questions that you might have
Detailing bliss is good.
Detailing world is a great site.
Autogeek has Mike Phillips.
Stay away from Autopia they got hacked a couple months back.
Adams polishes has the junkman, adam and dylan who will answer any questions that you might have
Last edited by irontree; Apr 14, 2011 at 04:11 PM. Reason: Forgot adams polishes
Vendor & Moderator :: MINI Camera and Video & c3 club forum
iTrader: (6)
VW paint and Audi paint are ideal paints for CQ because they are harder than BMW paint. If you're putting scratches in your paint, maybe you ought to look at how you are caring for it.
Detailing Bliss is owned by Detailers Domain who sells CQ.
Detailing World is a great UK forum
Autogeek's Mike Phillips who is a great source of knowledge on Meguiar's products. He and I used to be partners. He's a good guy.
Instead of Autopia.org, Check out AutopiaForums.com which used to be Detail City that is now also owned by Autogeek as well who is the US distributor for CQ.
You will find me and the other detailers on all of these other forums.
Richard
Detailing Bliss is owned by Detailers Domain who sells CQ.
Detailing World is a great UK forum
Autogeek's Mike Phillips who is a great source of knowledge on Meguiar's products. He and I used to be partners. He's a good guy.
Instead of Autopia.org, Check out AutopiaForums.com which used to be Detail City that is now also owned by Autogeek as well who is the US distributor for CQ.
You will find me and the other detailers on all of these other forums.
Richard
I can't comment on the Nanoskin product. But i can tell you that if CQ can reduce the amount of scratches it's worth every penny. I have 2 coats of my 2011 GTI and I have plans of putting 2 coats on Clubman. Starting with a flawless surface is required. It also requires any previous LSP or polish residue removed before applying. As with anything do a little research before choosing any LSP. Check out some of the detailing forums.
Detailing bliss is good.
Detailing world is a great site.
Autogeek has Mike Phillips.
Stay away from Autopia they got hacked a couple months back.
Adams polishes has the junkman, adam and dylan who will answer any questions that you might have
Detailing bliss is good.
Detailing world is a great site.
Autogeek has Mike Phillips.
Stay away from Autopia they got hacked a couple months back.
Adams polishes has the junkman, adam and dylan who will answer any questions that you might have
I have no problem with my wash techniq.
My clubman is almost 2 years old with zero swirls.
I'm trying to avoid scratches from things outside of my control.
Like the 3 12 inch scratches left in the roof by the dealer when it was in for service. It looks like when they took the headliner out they put it up on the roof to get it out of the way.
On another note.
Phil is having a detail clinic next month with the Adams polishes folks.
If your close to NJ it might be worth the visit.
http://www.detailingbliss.com/forum/...n-may-14th.htm
My clubman is almost 2 years old with zero swirls.
I'm trying to avoid scratches from things outside of my control.
Like the 3 12 inch scratches left in the roof by the dealer when it was in for service. It looks like when they took the headliner out they put it up on the roof to get it out of the way.
On another note.
Phil is having a detail clinic next month with the Adams polishes folks.
If your close to NJ it might be worth the visit.
http://www.detailingbliss.com/forum/...n-may-14th.htm
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