I am running in STX and I would like to get a set of camber plates, so I utilize the tires better. I am eating the outside shoulder, and barely touching the inside of the tire.

My main concern is that the car is my daily driver, and I don't want plates that rattle or need to be maintained frequently.

I have also heard of problems with plates that use polyurethane, were the poly split or brokes down.

I plan on keeping the stock springs as they work really well.

Does anyone have experience with camber plates and stock springs.

03CooperS

 

I have K-mac camber plates on my MCS but not stock springs but they do make plates for both stock type springs and coilovers. The K-mac plates for stock type springs use poly like the standard h-sports plates. In some other cars the deternining factor in poly vs. non-poly is the spring rate as stiff springs lead to poly failure. In the past poly type plates for Subaru's were good up to about 275 lbs. and for more than that you needed non-poly. I have never used a poly plate and have never had a problem with noise but I understand others have. With stock springs I'd go with the K-mac first as they require no drilling and have been making plates for many different cars for many years. H-sport would be my second choice but they make many fine products and I think they would cover any problems you had for a reasonable period of time.

 

Hey Lance!

 

If you don't mind drilling, the H-sports are easy to use, they are really easy to install with the stock shocks, if you have koni's you really, really, really need to pay attention to getting the retaining nut locked down. I was only successful using an impact wrench.

Ubercooper

 

RDR are the best. Search Google (Rossier Dyno Research) for the website.

 

I bought my cordless impact wrench to allow me to get the top retaining nut on and off the strut. I've changed out my front struts maybe 8 times. As a bonus I use it on the lugnuts as well.

Richard (gowest) had good advice - I'd recommend either the h-sports or the rdr for front camber plates. I have not used the h-sports, but I now have the RDR's and they are great and easily adjustable. The rdr's should also work fine with the stock shocks.

David

 

Cost for the part is under $550.
You can adjust from stock settings to about -2.0+ degrees negative camber in the front on the two extremes. There are detents for each incremental change.
Still allows use of a Tower strut bar.
Easy to change.

http://www.mini-works.com/chassis.html#CAMBER
Two different part numbers for MCS and MC.
From RDR-Quote:
They install using the stock mounting holes and do not require any drilling or fender butchering. They mount below the fender allowing for after-market strut braces. The main plate has a machined retainer groove to maintain factory caster settings. Very easy camber adjustment from the topside using two aircraft-grade bolts. Complete bearing holder system retained from above, avoiding the poly bearing pull-through so common on other designs. Polyurethane bearings come in two durometer ratings allowing a change from very firm street control to race-only hardness for track or severe street use. Owner interchangeable, (optional bearings not included). These bearings assure quiet street operation in marked contrast to harsh monoball designs. Maintains stock ride height and works with stock or aftermarket struts and springs or coil-overs, including adjustable Koni struts that can be adjusted in minutes on the car with our optional Koni tool. Constructed of steel and aircraft-grade aluminum, all parts are either hard anodized or cad plated.

 

Is there an install how-to on these?

 

Most of the camber plates for the MINI mount from under the tower strut plate so you'll have to remove the shock/springs from it's mounting point on the top.

The closest "how to" I could find was for lowering springs.
http://www.webbmotorsports.com/forum...topic.php?t=13

You can call Randy Webb at Webbmotorsports.com or Eric Savage at Helix13.com to buy camber plates and get some instructions on how to install them. Takes about 3 hours to install. Then you'll need an alignment.

 

I bought Webb camber plates. Nice pieces, but they greatly increase ride harshness on the street. with the camber plates and my H-sport springs, runflats are now unbearably harsh if I run over a cigarette butt. Yes, I reinstalled my bump stops.

Stock strut tops provide compliance with rubber bearing isolators. RDR and Webb plates replace these isolators with solid-mounted bearings for strength. A Webb customer replaced his H-sport plates with Webb plates, because the H-sports' bushings had failed. It seems you either get a comfortable ride or camber adjustment.

The good news: with 2.5 neg in the front, my S turns in like never before!

 

We had plates made after testing all of the plates on the market. These are the best solution, period.


- They use a monoball carrier to avoid bearing or bushing failure - something I've seen on most of the other units - and are teflon lined to keep from being noisy.

- They require no drilling, and are the strongest units on the market.

- They allow you the greatest range of adjustment (+.5 to -2.5 or greater with coilovers).

- The WMS camber plates allow the use of any strut brace, as they mount from under the tower.

- They will also work with Koni adjustables or coilover kits and allow adjustment of top mount rebound *****.

- The units are stainless steel and alunimum, which prevents corrosion - another issue I've seen with many of the other plates.

- The units are the most reasonably priced for what you get in return at $495.

Here's a pic of the units:



I'd be happy to walk you through the install.

Hope that helps!
Randy
720-841-1002

 

I've got the Webb units and they're treating me very well so far. The new handling is unbelievable. My one warning to people when they get them is to go buy a 1/2" crowfoot for adjusting the camber, the 4 nuts that are used to adjust the camber are partially covered by the strut top and using a 1/2" open ended wrench could result in a rounded nut, not good!

 

Just a note for those who wish to reset front camber for street (minimal camber of about -0.5 to -0.9 degrees) vs autocross (-2.0 to -2.3+ degrees) at the track or at home, you need to also reset front toe to either zero or 1/16" out.

When camber is changed, often so does toe change. You can mark the camber and toe settings to make it easier to switch back and forth once you have precisely measured the toe settings when doing an alignment at both extremes.

 

My Hsports died after about 6 months. Springs were making groaning and lots of funny noises because of twisting even thought top nuts were tight The Rubber parts failed, and one strut ruined. Randy Webb and I were very shocked. Hsport has not stood behind them , not even replying to my email.

Webb's plates are quieter too and are are stock height. HSport lowers slightly.

I run -1.25 up front all the time, which result's in perfect even tire wear with daily commute and fun canyon driving. I rotate often too.

Jeff