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Navigation & Audio Replacing Speakers...Replace Wires Too?

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Old Jan 6, 2011 | 12:16 PM
  #1  
aerodynamics's Avatar
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Replacing Speakers...Replace Wires Too?

For those of you who have replaced the factory speakers with aftermarket ones, did you run new wiring also? Just trying to figure out if running new speaker cable is worth the extra effort. I plan on using a 3-way component setup in the doors/A-pillar (factory locations), small subs in the factory 6x9 location and a 4-channel amp. Opinions?
 
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Old Jan 6, 2011 | 04:17 PM
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Run new wires.
Get a quality wire mfg. for speakers.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2011 | 06:11 PM
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Your setup sounds a lot like what I'll be running (3-way up-front w/A-pillar tweets). I thought about small 6x9 subs in the rear, too, but I am now considering a shallow-mount subwoofer in the trunk area... or just going cheap and putting my HSU 12" back into this vehicle.

I plan to run new wire (4-conductor) into the doors, and new wire (2-conductor) to the tweeters in an A-pillar mount. I have the non-Hifi, but I bought a couple A-pillars for this project.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2011 | 09:25 PM
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I did something similar to your plan and I ran new wiring. I think I used 16ga for the speakers and like 4ga for the amp power and ground.

Good Luck
 
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Old Jan 7, 2011 | 10:47 AM
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Was it a pain to remove the factory wiring? This would be my first install...just trying to gauge what I'm up against.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2011 | 12:42 PM
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I didn't replace the factory wiring. I just jammed the new wires through using the chopstick method.

I would recommend against making many changes to the factory wiring. It may cause problems with the car's computer. Just leave the old wires and tape them down.

Good Luck
 
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Old Jan 7, 2011 | 05:00 PM
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Can you elaborate on the chopstick method? I took my door apart today to take a look, and between the door and the car is a wiring bundle that feeds into a very tightly fit harness. I'm not seeing a way in without drilling a hole for myself.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2011 | 09:29 PM
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Tape the wire to the end of the chop stick and work it through the existing wiring bundle. The chop stick is just a tool that allows you to force the wires through the bundle, you use it to dilate or enlarge the wiring harness bundle. It takes a bit of effort to wriggle the chopstick through. It may need a bit of lube, try some teflon spray. Sometimes its best to use just the chopstick first then run it through with a thin wire attached that you then use to pull the speaker wires through. It takes a bit of work and a little common sense but you can do it, chop chop.
Good luck
 
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Old Jan 7, 2011 | 11:32 PM
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My plan of action is: factory head unit > RE-Q sound processor > 4ch amp > 3way components + two subs in the rear.

I've never done this before but I think this is how it goes (correct me if I'm wrong):

You have to tap into the x9331 on the head unit side to connect to the RE-Q. But after that, there is no return back to the speaker side of the x9331 (assuming I run new wiring from the amp to the speakers). So do you just discard the speaker side of the x9331? Or am I completely wrong and missing something?
 
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Old Jan 9, 2011 | 12:58 PM
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sounds right to me!
im running
front
6" infinity kappa
4" infinity kappa
rear
6x9 kappas
false floor in boot with 2 jbl 10" subs (;-))
2 sony amps under false floor

run new cables. easier to return to factory when you sell it!!
 

Last edited by INSTRUCTORWEZR56; Jan 9, 2011 at 02:54 PM. Reason: im thick and cant type ;-)
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Old Jan 9, 2011 | 02:03 PM
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INSTRUCTORWEZR56
floor in boot with 2 jbl 0" subs
2 sony amps under false floor
Sorry, but what do jbl 0" subs sound like??
 
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Old Jan 9, 2011 | 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by djdraddy
INSTRUCTORWEZR56 Sorry, but what do jbl 0" subs sound like??
at least the neighbours didn't complain!!!!
 
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