Longest Canoe (outrigger) on roofracks?
Longest Canoe (outrigger) on roofracks?
Can I carry a 18'-20' 1 person outrigger canoe on the standard MINI roof racks? The canoe is not heavy - but it's very long. The separation between the racks is what worries me. I'm afraid the canoe could split in half at the middle.
Is there perhaps something that attaches to the racks and extends a support frame forward and backwards?
Is there perhaps something that attaches to the racks and extends a support frame forward and backwards?
Call mini for the 20 passenger canoe adapter....no, not really.
All I can think to say is you are going to have to tell us. I can't imagine there is a wealth of knowledge even in this community on this particular subject, but I have been wrong before. Either make it work, or give up, but post the results so the next guy needing to strap a 20 man canoe to a mini will know the answer.
Canoes are ridgid with regard to their own weight. It will not break itself, but you need to factor wind in. Water is a huge force and they are a lot stronger than they look. I say if it will survive the wind and travel, you have no worries.
All I can think to say is you are going to have to tell us. I can't imagine there is a wealth of knowledge even in this community on this particular subject, but I have been wrong before. Either make it work, or give up, but post the results so the next guy needing to strap a 20 man canoe to a mini will know the answer.
Canoes are ridgid with regard to their own weight. It will not break itself, but you need to factor wind in. Water is a huge force and they are a lot stronger than they look. I say if it will survive the wind and travel, you have no worries.
Last edited by HRM; Sep 9, 2010 at 01:03 PM.
Anyway, it should never snap in half up and down, the weakest point is side to side in the middle and if the wind hits it sideways while on your car, it is over anyway. I say just put it up, tie down the front and back well and give it a go. SHort trips first, then if all looks well, you should be safe.
I've had a 17 foot canoe on top of a Ford Festiva before with no problems. I don't know why everyone kept starring at me.
But of course I didn't take it out when the wind was blowing 30 or 40 miles an hour.
But of course I didn't take it out when the wind was blowing 30 or 40 miles an hour.
Can't answer to the 20' canoe but our Tsunami 140 (14') and Tsunami 120 (12') both do well together... I know there is a 6' difference here but figured I would at least let you know there has been no issue with the 14'. Best of luck to you.
Trending Topics
If you cut two pieces of foam and position one near the front of the roof, and the other near the rear, your support points will much farther apart than most roof racks.
The finished product will look something like this:
http://www.rei.com/product/662048
... or these might work and you can skip the rest of this post.
Get enough dense, closed-cell plastic foam to cut two pieces about 4-6" thick and maybe 8-9" wide; length will depend on the beam of your canoe (which I'm guessing is not very wide). Not sure about the outriggers - are they less than the width of the roof? The foam blocks may need to be wide enough to support one or both outriggers.
In each piece, cut 2 curves, one to match the curve of the MINI's roof line, and the other to match the cross section of your canoe at the appropriate point (where you want it positioned on the roof). You may need to whittle on some cardboard templates before marking the foam. The thinnest point will be where the apexes of two curves come close together - I'd try to keep the foam at least 2-3" thick at the thinnest point, depending on how much your foam compresses.
The trick is to snug the boat down to the car approximately over the foam pieces - you may have to get creative to find tie points for your ropes or straps. I have opened the doors and passed a strap around the boat and through the passenger compartment, then closing the doors on the cinched straps - but that was the back seat of a 4-door - it's more complicated with a coupe.
You'll still want to tie the ends to prevent the weather-vane effect when semi-trailers blow by. Stop and check everything often until you're sure everything is going to stay put.
The finished product will look something like this:
http://www.rei.com/product/662048
... or these might work and you can skip the rest of this post.
Get enough dense, closed-cell plastic foam to cut two pieces about 4-6" thick and maybe 8-9" wide; length will depend on the beam of your canoe (which I'm guessing is not very wide). Not sure about the outriggers - are they less than the width of the roof? The foam blocks may need to be wide enough to support one or both outriggers.
In each piece, cut 2 curves, one to match the curve of the MINI's roof line, and the other to match the cross section of your canoe at the appropriate point (where you want it positioned on the roof). You may need to whittle on some cardboard templates before marking the foam. The thinnest point will be where the apexes of two curves come close together - I'd try to keep the foam at least 2-3" thick at the thinnest point, depending on how much your foam compresses.
The trick is to snug the boat down to the car approximately over the foam pieces - you may have to get creative to find tie points for your ropes or straps. I have opened the doors and passed a strap around the boat and through the passenger compartment, then closing the doors on the cinched straps - but that was the back seat of a 4-door - it's more complicated with a coupe.
You'll still want to tie the ends to prevent the weather-vane effect when semi-trailers blow by. Stop and check everything often until you're sure everything is going to stay put.
My previous post assumes you need to haul the boat right side up. If it's an un-decked boat with exposed gunnels of canoe-like dimensions - and if you can haul it up-side-down - here is a much simpler solution that might work:
http://www.rei.com/product/662054
http://www.rei.com/product/662054
[quote=runswithsizzers;3128455]If you cut two pieces of foam and position one near the front of the roof, and the other near the rear, your support points will much farther apart than most roof racks.
The finished product will look something like this:
http://www.rei.com/product/662048
... or these might work and you can skip the rest of this post.
Get enough dense, closed-cell plastic foam to cut two pieces about 4-6" thick and maybe 8-9" wide; length will depend on the beam of your canoe (which I'm guessing is not very wide). Not sure about the outriggers - are they less than the width of the roof? The foam blocks may need to be wide enough to support one or both outriggers.
In each piece, cut 2 curves, one to match the curve of the MINI's roof line, and the other to match the cross section of your canoe at the appropriate point (where you want it positioned on the roof). You may need to whittle on some cardboard templates before marking the foam. The thinnest point will be where the apexes of two curves come close together - I'd try to keep the foam at least 2-3" thick at the thinnest point, depending on how much your foam compresses.
quote]
The foam blocks alone will not work on a MINI roof or you risk leaving big dents. The MINI roof is not strong enough to hold any weight, thats why everyone uses roof racks.
The finished product will look something like this:
http://www.rei.com/product/662048
... or these might work and you can skip the rest of this post.
Get enough dense, closed-cell plastic foam to cut two pieces about 4-6" thick and maybe 8-9" wide; length will depend on the beam of your canoe (which I'm guessing is not very wide). Not sure about the outriggers - are they less than the width of the roof? The foam blocks may need to be wide enough to support one or both outriggers.
In each piece, cut 2 curves, one to match the curve of the MINI's roof line, and the other to match the cross section of your canoe at the appropriate point (where you want it positioned on the roof). You may need to whittle on some cardboard templates before marking the foam. The thinnest point will be where the apexes of two curves come close together - I'd try to keep the foam at least 2-3" thick at the thinnest point, depending on how much your foam compresses.
quote]
My previous post assumes you need to haul the boat right side up. If it's an un-decked boat with exposed gunnels of canoe-like dimensions - and if you can haul it up-side-down - here is a much simpler solution that might work:
http://www.rei.com/product/662054
http://www.rei.com/product/662054
To the next poster - Weight isn't an issue and these would be used in combination with the racks.. The canoe is very light. I doubt it'll dent the roof if I use the foam to add extra support forward and aft of the racks.
MotorMouth - when you say the boat is not heavy - what are we talking about 40 lbs? 60? (BTW, if you want to see a seriously light boat, here is my 14 pounder http://garywright.smugmug.com/Boats/...91584336_S8KyS)
If you still want to give it a try, I suggest using BIG pieces of foam to spread the weight over many square inches, and keep the foam positioned as close to ends of the roof as possible. Sheet metal is much stiffer where it starts to dome at the edges. Watch carefully when snugging down straps and bail out at the first sign of oil canning.
that is the best idea yet - in combination with roof racks.. I'll look into this a bit more! The outrigger disassembles.
To the next poster - Weight isn't an issue and these would be used in combination with the racks.. The canoe is very light. I doubt it'll dent the roof if I use the foam to add extra support forward and aft of the racks.
To the next poster - Weight isn't an issue and these would be used in combination with the racks.. The canoe is very light. I doubt it'll dent the roof if I use the foam to add extra support forward and aft of the racks.
I have used both kinds of foam blocks that runswithsizzers had links for to carry both canoes and kayaks with. The best way that I've found to use them is to put them on top of the racks to keep from scratching up anything.
Great thread. I have a 16' sit on top tandem kayak I've pondered about transporting with the mini. Problem is, it IS heavy...this pic was my inspiration.. anyone know how much this kayak might weigh? http://www.popeyesmarine.com/G3%20on%20mini%201.jpg
OP, please keep us updated on your experience
OP, please keep us updated on your experience
I put my old Huki V1-A upside down on my OEM roof rack with dakine pads wrapped around them. It's 21' 6" and I think around 28lbs. I center the cockpit area over the crossbars because the gunnels and seat area are flat and the seat fits between them. Not sure if it's slowly cracking anywhere but it's still water tight after 5 years. Sorry I don't have a pic.
I might suggest that you tie the bow and stern to the front and back of the MINI to keep it in a straight line because the wind alone could move it. The rope or straps don't have to be too tight. When you take off and brake they will also keep your canoe from being a flying canoe.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ECSTuning
Vendor Announcements
0
Aug 12, 2015 01:24 PM







