My check engine light has been on ever since I got my MINI. I brought it to Advanced Auto to get the computer checked, and two codes came up. The handheld thingy didn't understand the first code (it said to check the service manual), but the second one came up with something like "Repaired exhaust," which the salesman told me means that there is an exhaust leak somewhere.

Should I have written down the exact codes that came up? I'm a little antsy now about whatever the first one could have been.

He's an 04 justa.

 

Get the actual code #'s and post them here.....folks have lists, and can decode the numbers.
It could be an engine lean code from your description...could be on the intake side...or just a bad o2 sensor...did he re-set the lights? If not, the codes are still available. If he did re-set them, they will most likly come back....
Is your car running poorly or odd?
Why doesn't the place that sold you the car fix it??

 

I bought it from a private seller, so there really isn't a place I can take it back to.

It doesn't feel like anythings wrong or odd while I'm driving around, though it is a bit hesitant in first gear sometimes. It sure doesn't sound like it has an exhaust leak.

I think I'll head down there again tonight and write down both codes then.

 

There is no repair exhaust code... it maybe something like Catalytic Converter efficiency low or lean exhaust mixture/ lean fuel mixture. A leaking exhaust can cause these codes along with different 02 sensor codes. Need the exact codes though and then it should be more straight forward

 

Exactly what I was thinking. It could be as simple as replacing a worn exhaust flange gasket or O2 sensor issue to the MINI running too rich/lean.

If you haven't had noticeable performance problems then I would be hopeful and guess that it's a quick fix.

 

Just got him checked out again at Advanced... This time, only one code came up. It's p1477.

 

I couldn't find very much on Google, but searching this forum found these threads:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...d-friends.html
https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/1st-gear/150023-diagnostic-code-1477-leakage-diagnostic-pump-reed-switch-did-not-open.html

Both of these point towards an exhaust diagnostic pump.

Is this a 'replace only' kind of part, or can it be cleaned or fixed somehow?

And is there anything else I should check on?

 

P1477 Leakage Diagnostic Pump Reed Switch Did Not Open

 

One word of warning....do not think if an item reports an issue, it means it is broken...it may mean the issue is either upstream, or down stream of that sensor....it is a trouble shooting tool...not a fix this item...so if you don't understand the system you are working on well enough, swapping out parts is a very $$$$ to fix a problem....sometimes it is cheaper to have a pro diagnose and fix it. IF you are serious about DIY'ing some items, a repair manual, about 100$ is the bare necessity...often some education, and tools are needed too!!

 

And it is NOT part of the exhaust system!!
It is part of the evorpative emissions control...
"that something in the gas tank vacuum pump system is screwed up. But I don't know much about this system, other than in works for me! Anyway, sorry for not being much help...."
and
"but the system is responsible for a large reduction in unburnt hydrocarbon emmissions.

The system uses a pump to evacuate the fuel system, and looks to see if the system seals. Needless to say, having the gas cap off results in an unsealed system! Also, if the system doesn't seal, it defeats the vapor recovery system in the car.

So, it a "health of the planet" code, not a "your gonna loose that drag race code". And FWIW, put the cap on, and in a few "driving cycles" it will clear itself.

Matt"

Both from DR O in a previous post!!

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post1195796


and further...Per the Bentley Manual pg 160/16-17:
The LDP is the fuel tank leakage diagnosis pump.It's located, along with the charcoal canister assembly, behind the right rear wheel housing liner.
If you want to remove it, get a screwdriver.
If you want to loosen a stuck reed switch, get a hammer.
Sorry, the manual doesn't go into rebuilding the pump assembly. But there is a nice picture of the evaporative control system on pg 160-3. Personally, I think the reed valve got gummed up with fuel vapors and it needs a good whackin' with a hammer. Try the handle of a screwdriver first and report back. Let us know the price on a LDP.

check the lines, from the LDP (behind the right rear fender liner) all the way up to the intake. sometimes the lines chafe or get crushed. But with that said I have found replacing the Tank Leak Diagnostic Pump, fixes the problem 9 times out of 10.

also, I'm not sure about in costa rica, but in the US there was a tank leak daignostic recall, on the earlier cars up to '03 or '04 maybe. For the recall the DME had to be reprogrammed and a sticker was placed somewhere under the hood that said "tank leak diagnostic recall # and has a place to fill in the dealer #"

These all came from the above thread......but it should get you going...
PS..if you want to get a Manual, get the BENTLY, it is THE manual to have.

 

Leak Detection Pump
This unit is used to pressurize the fuel tank and vapor path to determine if there are any leaks in the EVAP fuel system. Leaks are categorized as small or large and will set the SES light if a leak is detected on two successive trips.

The LDP pump is a positive displacement pump powered by the vacuum from the engine and a return spring inside the pump.
The vacuum pulls the diaphragm (which is connected to a magnet used to trip a reed switch) inside the pump until the switch clicks, then the vacuum is turned off and the diaphragm returns under spring pressure. This process repeats resulting in a steady increase in pressure inside the tank assuming no leaks.

The time between switch actuation increases as pressure increases in the EVAP system. Imagine pumping a Bicycle tire with a hand pump; the time for each stroke is longer as the tire fills up with air, unless it is leaking!

The ECM monitors the length of time it takes the switch to open and is the basis for determining if a leak is present

The EVAP leak test has some enabling criteria or the test will not run:
The fuel level must be between ¼ and ¾ tank full (which infers that the fuel gauge must be working)
The IAT (intake air temperature) and the ECT (engine coolant temperature) must be within a few degrees of each other (confirmation of cold engine)
When these conditions are true, the test will run once for every drive cycle. The EVAP monitor will report is the test completed, but to see if it passed or failed check for a pending code. To see how close it came to failing check the OBD scan tool for the MODE $06 results for the EVAP test. This result shows the upper or lower limit as well as the actual value.
Hope this helps!

 

Well, I took him in to the service desk that the previous owner did maintenance before. They charged me $95 just to tell me the pump was bad and needed replacing.

They also quoted $350 to replace it, parts and labor. Does that sound about right? The part itself is around $120 - how difficult would it be to replace it myself (with the guidance of the Bently manual?)

 

Would tapping a boost gauge line into that vacuum line result in this problem with tripping the code.