Brake Pads for Track Days
Brake Pads for Track Days
Well I am looking to get my 2009 S out on a road course in the next couple of weeks and I am concerned that the factory pads will not be able to withstand the abuse of the day. Because of this I am looking into getting a different pad but I am not sure what are good options. I don't mind swapping pads so I am open to the option.
The Hawk HPS pads are appealing because they are relatively cheap along with the Porterfield R4-S pads that I saw on Texas Speedwerks. Anyway I was wondering what people recommend for a pad that will see the occasional track day.
Thanks for you help.
The Hawk HPS pads are appealing because they are relatively cheap along with the Porterfield R4-S pads that I saw on Texas Speedwerks. Anyway I was wondering what people recommend for a pad that will see the occasional track day.
Thanks for you help.
The dilemma with what you are asking is that what is good on the track is not good on the street and vise-versa. I would recommend something more aggressive for the track than the HPS pads. Something like the CarboTech XP10 on the front and XP8 on the rear. Or if you like Hawk, maybe the DTC-60's. The PorterField R4-S are not track pads, even for the rear.
I agree with btwdriver that the Hawk HPS are not aggressive enough for the track. I use the Hawk HPS on the street but I change pads for the track.
Saying that, I used stock pads at the first two track days that I went to and the pads lasted through both events. However, I did have brake fade and had to slow down. Since then I have installed larger brakes.
Saying that, I used stock pads at the first two track days that I went to and the pads lasted through both events. However, I did have brake fade and had to slow down. Since then I have installed larger brakes.
I agree with btwdriver that the Hawk HPS are not aggressive enough for the track. I use the Hawk HPS on the street but I change pads for the track.
Saying that, I used stock pads at the first two track days that I went to and the pads lasted through both events. However, I did have brake fade and had to slow down. Since then I have installed larger brakes.
Saying that, I used stock pads at the first two track days that I went to and the pads lasted through both events. However, I did have brake fade and had to slow down. Since then I have installed larger brakes.
I take if from your comment that you have had that issue?
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My stock rotors did not warp. I think the fluid and pads started to give up before the rotors got too hot. My guess would be that better pads and hi-temp fluid would tend to put more heat into the rotors which could cause cracks or even warpage. However, it seems like the stock rotors can take a lot of abuse and not warp.
I sent a pm to a local carbotech dealer on a local board about some pads. If they can get me a good deal, I will probably pick up xp10s for the front and xp8s for the rear.
What you need does depend on your skill level on the track.
There are street pads like Mini OEM, aggressive street pads such as Hawks HPS. These are usually not enough pad for the track.
Then there are track pads from mild to aggressive. Much of the ratings on track pads has to do with the friction coefficient and heat range. The milder pads have lower heat ranges and lower friction coefficient. Most manufacturers offer track pads from mild to aggressive.
If you want a good intro track pad, try the Carbotech XP 10 in the front. It is important to be with more than enough brakes on the track.
There are street pads like Mini OEM, aggressive street pads such as Hawks HPS. These are usually not enough pad for the track.
Then there are track pads from mild to aggressive. Much of the ratings on track pads has to do with the friction coefficient and heat range. The milder pads have lower heat ranges and lower friction coefficient. Most manufacturers offer track pads from mild to aggressive.
If you want a good intro track pad, try the Carbotech XP 10 in the front. It is important to be with more than enough brakes on the track.
They also didn't last very long.
Again, depending on your driving skill, braking needs and the track situation, track pads typically last about 3-5 track days in the front.
The rear pads can sometimes last about two to three times longer.
The rear pads can sometimes last about two to three times longer.
Understood, I run in the advanced run group and do 30+ track days a year. My experience with the R4 pads in the rear is they only lasted around 6-7 days. Other pads that I have run, like the Hawk DTC-60, lasted at least a half a year.
I also run in the advanced group with about 20-25 days a year. I run CT XP8 in the rear so about 14-16 days of track. Funny, I found in thr front, the XP12s wear better than the XP10s. Must be the heat range.
R4 seems to wear down quite a lot quicker in the back. Good to know.
R4 seems to wear down quite a lot quicker in the back. Good to know.
In addition to whatever pads you select, also consider at getting upgraded rotors. M7 has the complete kit of drilled/slotted rotors for $339. Go here: http://www.m7tuning.com/parts/produc...roducts_id=161.
If you had a 1st gen MINI, Turner Motorsport still has front and rear drilled rotors for $120/pair. That's only $240 total.
If you had a 1st gen MINI, Turner Motorsport still has front and rear drilled rotors for $120/pair. That's only $240 total.
In addition to whatever pads you select, also consider at getting upgraded rotors. M7 has the complete kit of drilled/slotted rotors for $339. Go here: http://www.m7tuning.com/parts/produc...roducts_id=161.
If you had a 1st gen MINI, Turner Motorsport still has front and rear drilled rotors for $120/pair. That's only $240 total.
If you had a 1st gen MINI, Turner Motorsport still has front and rear drilled rotors for $120/pair. That's only $240 total.
While I used to run drilled rotors on the track with my 911 and Lotus without issues, it seems that they are not recommended on a Mini due to stress cracking. This seems to be especially true for the OEM Mini JCW drilled rotors (not so on the regular JCW rotors). Drilled rotors could also shorten the life of a brake pad.
What you need does depend on your skill level on the track.
There are street pads like Mini OEM, aggressive street pads such as Hawks HPS. These are usually not enough pad for the track.
Then there are track pads from mild to aggressive. Much of the ratings on track pads has to do with the friction coefficient and heat range. The milder pads have lower heat ranges and lower friction coefficient. Most manufacturers offer track pads from mild to aggressive.
If you want a good intro track pad, try the Carbotech XP 10 in the front. It is important to be with more than enough brakes on the track.
There are street pads like Mini OEM, aggressive street pads such as Hawks HPS. These are usually not enough pad for the track.
Then there are track pads from mild to aggressive. Much of the ratings on track pads has to do with the friction coefficient and heat range. The milder pads have lower heat ranges and lower friction coefficient. Most manufacturers offer track pads from mild to aggressive.
If you want a good intro track pad, try the Carbotech XP 10 in the front. It is important to be with more than enough brakes on the track.
Have you looked at Hawk HP plus pads? I have them in my 39-year-old Datsun autoX car, and it breaks harder than my MINI on HPS pads. They're noisy and dusty, but certainly street-able (unlike most pads that perform similarly). And just for what it's worth - I've used HPS pads on the track without issue. BUT, it was raining intensely. So I suppose that invalidated my results.
Really, it all depends on your situation: If you just want to go out and have fun, you could probably get away with aggressive street pads provided you're cool with slowing down if they start to cook. If you want to go out and run hard for the entire session, you'll likely have to either change pads there, or go with a hybrid pad like the HP pluses. And then of course, you have to consider the track - are there long straights where the brakes can cool? And finally, because no one else has mentioned it yet: Make sure to fully flush the system with a good, racing-type fluid like ATE Super Blue.
Really, it all depends on your situation: If you just want to go out and have fun, you could probably get away with aggressive street pads provided you're cool with slowing down if they start to cook. If you want to go out and run hard for the entire session, you'll likely have to either change pads there, or go with a hybrid pad like the HP pluses. And then of course, you have to consider the track - are there long straights where the brakes can cool? And finally, because no one else has mentioned it yet: Make sure to fully flush the system with a good, racing-type fluid like ATE Super Blue.
It does not change brake bias enough to be a problem.
As you get faster, keep better track of the rotor temperatures and tire pressures/temperatures.
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