swap cvt for 6 speed auto
Well, I'm sure you could bolt a 6-speed onto the car, that's not the problem. Then you need the clutch pedal, the clutch sensor, the shift lug and cables and maybe an under-dash bracket for the clutch. I've not heard of anyone doing that, but it would be quite the project if you wanted to do it. I'd love to see a writeup afterward.
I swapped my 5-speed for the 6-spd and it was a big job. I imagine adding a clutch pedal to the equation would be interesting. Though, if you're inclined, I'm sure it would all just bolt/fasten in like it should. Of course, then there's the matter of programming - with the new clutch and cruise/whatever else.
Of course, I'm not a mechanic and I can't say much else. All of the above is just my opinion, not having any intimate car knowledge other than my swap project.
I swapped my 5-speed for the 6-spd and it was a big job. I imagine adding a clutch pedal to the equation would be interesting. Though, if you're inclined, I'm sure it would all just bolt/fasten in like it should. Of course, then there's the matter of programming - with the new clutch and cruise/whatever else.
Of course, I'm not a mechanic and I can't say much else. All of the above is just my opinion, not having any intimate car knowledge other than my swap project.
Wow, and no sooner do I post that and I found this thread directly below yours: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...t-options.html
Seems "Densmini" has done it. Good luck!
Seems "Densmini" has done it. Good luck!
"is there any way to swap cvt to the 6 speed automatic."
Poster is trying to switch to 6 speed auto, not manual.
I'm assuming you'd be swapping to the 6 speed auto from the S. I would think it would bolt right up, but you probably have to have something done to the ECU.
Poster is trying to switch to 6 speed auto, not manual.
I'm assuming you'd be swapping to the 6 speed auto from the S. I would think it would bolt right up, but you probably have to have something done to the ECU.
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"is there any way to swap cvt to the 6 speed automatic."
Poster is trying to switch to 6 speed auto, not manual.
I'm assuming you'd be swapping to the 6 speed auto from the S. I would think it would bolt right up, but you probably have to have something done to the ECU.
Poster is trying to switch to 6 speed auto, not manual.
I'm assuming you'd be swapping to the 6 speed auto from the S. I would think it would bolt right up, but you probably have to have something done to the ECU.
OOPS! of course...
This weekend I just did the swap in my 2003 Mini - I got rid of that boat anchor CVT and replaced it with a Getrag 6 speed. Everything is back together, but I have to address the electrical issues. I think that its going to require an ECM and Harness swap, but if that's it, it will have been an easy swap. I used a dual mass flywheel and a 14 tooth clutch/pressure plate. Transmission bolted right up. I also bought a new brake/clutch assembly - it bolts right in and the master cylinder is part of the assembly. Lines ran up the firewall behind the Brake Master Cylinder where a grommet was placed to cover up the hole. The Brake reservoir comes equipped to accept the fluid feed tube, just need to cut the end off. New Axles on both sides. New Shifter assembly and your ready to go - Now I need to figure out the electrical part - I have power at the dash and I have no start. There are two plugs that are no longer needed (pictured) and I imagine that the ECM is not allowing the starter to engage because it thinks that the transmissions is missing - Any thoughts??
Hi, Matthew1619,
Down on the firewall near your clutch pedal you will find your EWS- (immobilizer). Remove the electrical plug. You till have to jump the two thick black wires to bypass the starter lockout. (I used a "scotchlok" connecter). Then plug it back in. You should be able to start 'er up. Did you secure the cable from the key cylinder that used to run to your CVT shifter?
If not, you may have trouble turning the key all the way.
Long term, get the ECU reprogrammed, and wire in the clutch starter- lockout switch (may have come as a part of the pedal assy). When you do you can ditch the scotchlok. Baz
Down on the firewall near your clutch pedal you will find your EWS- (immobilizer). Remove the electrical plug. You till have to jump the two thick black wires to bypass the starter lockout. (I used a "scotchlok" connecter). Then plug it back in. You should be able to start 'er up. Did you secure the cable from the key cylinder that used to run to your CVT shifter?
If not, you may have trouble turning the key all the way.
Long term, get the ECU reprogrammed, and wire in the clutch starter- lockout switch (may have come as a part of the pedal assy). When you do you can ditch the scotchlok. Baz
what are your opinions of the getrag, does it have the same feel? and as far as acceleration is it lacking at all because you cant stay at a peak rpm while the tranny gears up? i think cvt is a good idea on paper, and in practice, driving wise, its not bad at all i think, just the reliability issue
what are your opinions of the getrag, does it have the same feel? and as far as acceleration is it lacking at all because you cant stay at a peak rpm while the tranny gears up? i think cvt is a good idea on paper, and in practice, driving wise, its not bad at all i think, just the reliability issue
The engine mount/placement on the S has is shifted a bit compared to the regular S due to the assin auto tranny size...so one more hurdle...
All other items discussed..cv joints, computer programming, wiring harness, etc will be an issue....with the lower hp on a cooper you would likely need a custom torque converter with a different lockup speed too....tranny in this day are so integrated with the computer, good luck...a swap from cvt to stick (either one) is uber involved, and $$$ if you don't use a wrecked mini for parts and supply the labour....for most a different car is simply a cheaper faster option....and it will not be a permanent project car with things that never work right...like cruise...
either way, good luck!!
All other items discussed..cv joints, computer programming, wiring harness, etc will be an issue....with the lower hp on a cooper you would likely need a custom torque converter with a different lockup speed too....tranny in this day are so integrated with the computer, good luck...a swap from cvt to stick (either one) is uber involved, and $$$ if you don't use a wrecked mini for parts and supply the labour....for most a different car is simply a cheaper faster option....and it will not be a permanent project car with things that never work right...like cruise...
either way, good luck!!
It is a highly custom job.
a labour of love
imo it is unlikely you will find a shop able to do the sawp. If you just add $120 an hour for the research a shop would need to do to figure how to do the swap, you would be broke....and that is before parts, or install labour.
if you get the parts at a wrecking yard, then install over a few weekendd with a few buddies...but the issue is you also need a new wiring harness, computer, etc to go from a cvt to stick...new interior bits. So putting an ENTIRE powertrain and half the interior from a wrecked car would be needed.
WOW!!
Sorry, but a huge project.
Have to agree with Zippy. DIY is the only way it makes economic sense. Plus, you don't have the luxury of time to hunt all the parts down (see below). Here's what you'll need- here's what it cost me. Sorry to be a downer.
There's a link somewhere for the how-to on a swap from Texas Motorwerks.
MINI TRANS SWAP LIST (all prices include shipping)
Transmission 680.00
Shifter assy 69.00
Clutch & flywheel 122.00
Clutch pedal, Master &Slave cyl 36.00
Clutch pipe, hoses & fittings 25.00
Driveshafts 800.00
Shifter cables 205.00
Throwout brg 25.00
Manual trans ECU reprogram
(haven’t done this yet) 400.00+
Upper transmission mount (made my own)
I should note the exorbitant price I paid for halfshafts: about a week after finding the cheapest I could, they started turning up on eBay for about 1/3 of that price. Murphy’s law! I also found only one source for shifter cables that wasn’t from a MINI dealer- Detroit Tuned. They were somewhat cheaper, but maybe a resourceful person could do even better. I should also note that the MINI slave cylinders are, in my humble opinion, not worth the plastic from which they are formed. I used a cast iron one from a late 80’s S-10 Chevy pickup/Blazer. Got it at Autozone. Cheap and durable.
There's a link somewhere for the how-to on a swap from Texas Motorwerks.
MINI TRANS SWAP LIST (all prices include shipping)
Transmission 680.00
Shifter assy 69.00
Clutch & flywheel 122.00
Clutch pedal, Master &Slave cyl 36.00
Clutch pipe, hoses & fittings 25.00
Driveshafts 800.00
Shifter cables 205.00
Throwout brg 25.00
Manual trans ECU reprogram
(haven’t done this yet) 400.00+
Upper transmission mount (made my own)
I should note the exorbitant price I paid for halfshafts: about a week after finding the cheapest I could, they started turning up on eBay for about 1/3 of that price. Murphy’s law! I also found only one source for shifter cables that wasn’t from a MINI dealer- Detroit Tuned. They were somewhat cheaper, but maybe a resourceful person could do even better. I should also note that the MINI slave cylinders are, in my humble opinion, not worth the plastic from which they are formed. I used a cast iron one from a late 80’s S-10 Chevy pickup/Blazer. Got it at Autozone. Cheap and durable.
even when done, the car MIGHT not be 100%...cruise may never work, etc...
drop a used trany in...sell the car...
or buy a NEW/manufactured tranny, and drive it for another 50-75k (depends on how agressive you are...some folks get lots less...some get lots more..)
But you do get you car back pretty fast...a week or two...as opoosed to months...
drop a used trany in...sell the car...
or buy a NEW/manufactured tranny, and drive it for another 50-75k (depends on how agressive you are...some folks get lots less...some get lots more..)
But you do get you car back pretty fast...a week or two...as opoosed to months...
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