hello all

friend's '07 Cooper (18,000 miles) just had the "service" light come on, and with only plugging in the fob the dealer says the rear brakes "need to be replaced", and the fronts need to be done in "another 2000 miles" (about $1000 CAN$ for front & rear).

Is this normal mileage for a brake set out of a mildly-driven Cooper? My '03 MCS has gone 40,000 miles and has about 30% left front & rear, and I drive the snot out of it. Also, I am suspicious that the dealer tried to sell a full front & rear brake re & re without even getting the car up on a lift...

I suspect either low brake fluid or a faulty sensor/wiring, and suggested my friend take it somewhere else for a second opinion.

Any thoughts appreciated!

greg v.

 

I still have good brakes at 36,000 miles. I am less than wild, but more than mild.

 

If the car is still under warranty, brake replacements should be covered. Did the dealer say this would cost your friend money?

Typically, on MINIs, when you replace the pads, you replace the rotors as well.

The sensors that alert the onboard computer about wear are in the brake pads. So, I'm not sure how brake fluid would affect this. I assume that this car has had its first service (beyond just an oil change). Usually, the first service includes replacing brake fluid.

Personally, I switched to Carbotech 1521 Bobcat brake pads. This voids my warranty on brakes, but it was worth it to me. The Bobcats put out very little dust, last longer, are easier on the rotors, and stop better. I no longer have to clean the wheels and boot of my car weekly.

 

The original poster seems to be in Canada, they have different a warranty up there, so this is not included I assume.

It sounds weird that the rear brakes would go before the fronts, and for a "mildly driven" cooper, that's a very short life. Our Cooper isn't "mildly" driven and we've got 16k miles out of the front brakes (will be serviced tomorrow) and the rears still have 10k miles left according to the computer.

 

Everything I've read indicates the brake lights go on when the linings are thin. Also, yes the key fob stores a lot of information, more than is displayed in the car.

It is unusual to have brakes wear out in 30,000 miles, but not unheard of. Do you live in an area where the brakes get dusty or dirty a lot? The material that the stock brakes are made from is supposed to be very soft, maybe you're getting extra wear caused by dirt getting embedded into the pads and discs and it's sanding down the brakes.

 

thanks for all the info, sounds like maybe this isn't an extremely unusual mileage for pads to need replacement (along with the rotors by the looks of it).

cheers

greg v.

 

My brakes needed replacement at 27K, rear had worn first. While it seems unusual for rear to go first, if your e-brake was out of adjustment, it could cause a premature wear of the rear pads as they would drag slightly. That is what I believe happened in my case.
Regardless, fronts were close as well so they replaced them all.

 

I'm not questioning the diagnosis, but my brake light came on earlier this year and the cause was just low brake fluid, probably due to normal brake wear (pistons further depressed at resting position due to less lining).

 

I HIGHLY recommend you check your pad wear yourself unless the dealer is going to replace everything under "pre paid maintenance"

IOW if the dealer wants to cover the cost -- GO FOR IT

If they say the pads are gone on YOUR DIME, then you best know how to inspect the pads yourself .... it is EASY

Which group R U in?

{p.s. a dealer told me I "must replace my pads immediately...they are unsafe ... too worn....

???? I'd put new ones on myself just a few weeks b4 .....

but it was the first 'out of pre-pay' service call

and the dealer had never replaced the pads (or rotors)

and there were NO fingerprints on the dirty front wheels to suggest anyone had pulled a wheel to actually LOOK at a set of pads .....}

need a DIY??? I've hung it several times but ask nice and I might again ....

 

Not necessarily telling, you can see how thick the pad is without removing the wheel. Also the standard BMW pad thickness tool measures the pad thickness with the wheels on.

 

agree 100% ... but they were pads with less that 1000 miles ....

the dealer said they were bad

and they had not pulled a wheel either ....

could it be that they looked at the milage

and the service records that said THEY had never eplaced the pads/rotors

and THEN they said "new pads and rotors"

without noticing (aka LOOKING) that they were NEW ....

in other words ..... looking for

FISH ON THE LINE

I've a DIY to read thickness w/out pulling the wheel ... OH YES ... I'm confident on this one ....