I had the TSW springs installed for the R53 - BMW did the install for me. The car for one is not as low as I hoped for, does this get lower with time?

Secondly, I hear a bump coming from the front when I go over minor bumps, what could cause this problem?

 

Yes, I've read that the springs will lower over time.

Not sure about your bump issue.

 

Chances are the dealership did not put the car back together properly. Loose damper top nuts and loose swaybar drop links are famous for not being tightened enough. Since the dealership is already suspected of messing up the install, you may want to look to ensure they seated the springs in the perches correctly. The spring perches are keyed to accept the spring in one position only. If the installer isn't well versed on this it's likely they didn't assemble the struts correctly, causing binding, clunking, and an improper ride height.

BTW, did you measure before/after ride heights?

 

Give it 200 miles to settle in - it will end up right at spec, but it takes some time (fronts tend to take longer).

Check the strut nuts and alignment of the spring in the rubber bushings as Ryephile stated - in fact, make sure the rubber isolators are even there (some shops have left them out in the past). Also, make sure that the spring is clear of the inside of the strut tower (if you also had camber plates installed). Finally - make sure they trimmed the bumpstops according to the directions.

The springs are stiffer than OEM, so while they ride and handle better, they will transmit slightly more NVH throughout the car - this will likely be most noticeable on sharp bumps like expansion joints.

 

Hi guys, I'll take it back to the dealership on Monday to have rectified. Is it damaging to the springs if I continue to drive it as it is?

My car is an 03, do they still need to do the clearancing? I don't have camber plates installed.

 

I took the car to a wheel alignment place yesterday and as far as they can tell everything was put back on right. So do you think it is definitely a clearancing issue? My car is a 2003.

The other issue now is, my camber settings for the front wheels. They can't set it, what do I need to do/buy to sort this issue out? I got rear lower control arms to sort out my rear wheels camber. Nothing I can buy to sort out the front?

 

Front camber = not adjustable from the factory. You can add a *fixed* amount of camber by adding fixed camber plates (I use the Ireland's - which add -1.25 deg to whatever you already have) or you can make camber adjustable by adding adjustable camber plates. There are several mfgs for these with different designs at different price points- Ireland, Texas Speedwerks, Helix, others.

 

I'm never going to finish my car As I think I'm done, something else needs to be changed to get the car 100%. I was under the impression that you only needed rear control arms for 03 model cars if you drop the suspension. Is there any other way? Or can I drive the car as it is?

 

Any MINI Built before Jan 2005 doesn't have ANY rear camber adjustment. Any lowering spring or even stock springs after many miles will cause the rear camber to go out of spec. Then you will need a set of aftermarket arms to bring the rear camber back into spec.

 

Hi Dustin,

I understand that, the rear is totally fine thanks to those nice TSW control arms. I'm talking about the front wheels camber though.

 

Mike: You will need adjustable camber plates. The front suspension geometry does not change as much as the rear after lowering, so it is unlikely out of OEM spec, but original spec has not enough negative camber. This is why most modders put the plates in, to get more like -2deg camber on the front.
That said, depending on the shape of the spring you installed, you might have to modify the vertical ridge on the inside of the shock tower on the driver's (left) side. I would imagine though, if this was necessary with the TSW springs they would have mentioned it in the installation instructions. It was needed on my 05 MCS with HS Sport springs, but not needed for the coilovers.

 

Hi Doc,
I'm a perfectionist and if according to the machine compared to a standard Cooper S' settings I'm out, it's like a thorn in my brain. Everything has to be PERFECT lol It's still at BMW, they technician will call me tomorrow to tell me if he has managed to get the settings closer to what the stock ones should be.

I hope my problem is what you mentioned in your second paragraph. It would make things so much easier than having to order camber plates.

 

Mike - for one, the spring will settle in a bit as you drive and you will get a bit more negative camber. But, if you want more than what the stock setup allows (which is fixed, but changes slightly due to lowering), you would need camber plates. There is no camber adjustment in the front, otherwise.

Make sure they followed the directions and rounded out the inside of the strut towers - the little ridges on the driver's side, especially.

 

I told them to check that when I took it back. I hope they listened properly this time round, because I spoke briefly about it the first time I dropped the car off.

I'm not sure if I need more negative camber or more to get into the "green" zone according to the wheel alignment machine. For now I'll leave it and if I really need to I'll get the camber plates next year. I don't have time left this year to keep dropping it in and out of shops anymore.

 

Just got back from the BMW dealer and still no joy. They did the clearancing on "your" (my passenger side) driver side of the car. They springs aren't touching anywhere else.

So they thought it was the engine mounting being finished and due to my harder springs perhaps this is causing the engine to knock onto something.
They checked that and that isn't the case.

The noise only happens after I go over the object. It's definitely something is touching something. I can feel the aftershock through the pedals and sometimes the steering wheel.

What could it be? I'm getting so frustrated here!

 

Hello Mike,

Please remove the wheels and take close up pics of the setup. post them here or email them to me or TSW. I hope someone can see something that will allow us to better help you. Thanks Dustin

 

Hi Dustin,

If they can not sort out the noise by tomorrow I will do what you suggested. Will keep you posted either way.

 

Okay its 6PM here. I want to get back to them so I can get my car back ASAP!

Here are pics of the car outside.





This is the front left side.

 

The right side. Any suggestions are something wrong that you can see?









1 more shot.

 

To me, it doesn't look like they have flattened out the ribs enough on this side:

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a51...7/IMG_5507.jpg

IMHO, they should put the car on all four wheels on an alignment rig (or lift, if it's a drive on type), reach up inside the front strut tower and make SURE that there's a finger gap between the spring and the inside of the strut tower. The suspension should be "loaded", meaning the weight of the car is on it, to check the clearance.

Many people don't go far enough with the hammer... Thanks to MINI for putting those ribs in just the wrong spot.

If there's plenty of clearance, I'd make sure the upper spring perch rubber is in place (it appears the lowers are), the strut nuts are tight (the big nuts inside the upper strut bushing), the three nuts are tight on the upper strut bushing, the pinch nut is tight, the swaybar endlinks are tight, lower a-arm balljoints are tight, all lines secured, etc.

 

It doesn't appear that this side was rounded out at all:

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a51...7/IMG_5514.jpg

P.S. If they round them out more because they find interference, make sure that they check the fuse box and ensure all relays and fuses are secure. Hammering on the inside of the strut tower tends to shake them loose.

 

Hey Mike,

Thanks for posting pics, I hope you find the above posts helpful. Good looking MINI by the way. We look forward to the outcome, Dustin

 

Wow, thanks for the quick responses!

Is that not the front left side? Where do they round out?

 

Thanks Dustin! I just want to get this "project" over and done with lol.

 

Just above and toward the rear of the car from where that bolt protrudes from the engine compartment... behind this coil and the strut (marked in red).