R50/53 Looking for a specific rattle...
Ok here's the thing: I am starting to develop a rattle in both of the silver tubes on the driver and passenger doors. When I apply pressure (hold them) to the silver parts on either of the doors, the rattle goes away. I tried tightening the torx screws on the tubes, but I think they must be for "show" because the rattle is still there. I remember a while back that a MCO member (I think) had this rattle. I beleve he fixed this rattle. I thought it was an odd place to get one, but now I have it :???: . Can the member I thought of or anyone else think of a solution (besides going to the dealer)?
Help...
Help...
Don't try to tighten those heads on the handles. They are only for show. The other side of that head is a plastic weld. It's not a screw.
To stop those rattles, you'll need to apply tape, felt, or some other dampening material to the back of the door panel where it makes contact with the metal door. There are also issues with the speaker grill causing rattles as well.
Here are some FAQ's on various interior work:
http://www.mini2.com/forum/faq.php?f...aq_faq_removal
And Gabe's site has a how-to, as well:
http://www.bridger.us/mini/howto/
Also, don't forget, your dealer will do this for free and if they break anything, it's their nickel, not yours.
Good luck with the rattles,
JS
To stop those rattles, you'll need to apply tape, felt, or some other dampening material to the back of the door panel where it makes contact with the metal door. There are also issues with the speaker grill causing rattles as well.
Here are some FAQ's on various interior work:
http://www.mini2.com/forum/faq.php?f...aq_faq_removal
And Gabe's site has a how-to, as well:
http://www.bridger.us/mini/howto/
Also, don't forget, your dealer will do this for free and if they break anything, it's their nickel, not yours.
Good luck with the rattles,
JS
I had the same rattle (actually, more of a buzz). The dealer popped off the door panel and used a tube of possiblly silicon to apply a bead of goo where the panel contacts the door.
Unfortunately, the goo must have dried, because the buzz is coming back. I've also noticed that the passenger door is beginning to buzz as well.
I'll be adding it to the list of minor annoyances that I'll have the dealer fix next time.
Unfortunately, the goo must have dried, because the buzz is coming back. I've also noticed that the passenger door is beginning to buzz as well.
I'll be adding it to the list of minor annoyances that I'll have the dealer fix next time.
Check your speaker housing too. my rattle/buzz is coming from the speaker. When I pull on the jesus handles, the buzz stops.
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Thanks Cooptime!
I actually had myself laughing too! 
I actually think I have a rattle somewhere in the boot, but with all the junk that I carry around that is constantly banging around, I would have to first clean the interior of my MINI in order to find out where it might be coming from.
Think I will just turn up the stereo for now. . .
I actually had myself laughing too! 
I actually think I have a rattle somewhere in the boot, but with all the junk that I carry around that is constantly banging around, I would have to first clean the interior of my MINI in order to find out where it might be coming from.
Think I will just turn up the stereo for now. . .
cooptime.....
Fortunately I had that rattle fixed at the dealership, so that's the good news along with I got lower insurance from Geiko...lol!
The bad news...hope you don't get my dash rattle, so far unfixable....by 50K miles I'm afraid my MCS might be one huge rattle.....
Good luck !
Fortunately I had that rattle fixed at the dealership, so that's the good news along with I got lower insurance from Geiko...lol!
The bad news...hope you don't get my dash rattle, so far unfixable....by 50K miles I'm afraid my MCS might be one huge rattle.....

Good luck !
Hi,
Had the same rattle and employed a drastic fix. I took off the door panels and drilled 2 small holes in the back (3/8"
- right next to the plastic welds that hold the door tubes to the door panel. I then used a can of "low expansion" polyurethane insulating foam, about a 15 second shot into each hole, filling the tube handles. I let the panels dry overnight and then cut off the excess foam that had come out of the holes. I also used this fix as an excuse to add Dynamat Extreme (r) to the inside of each door panel (not the door frame as the instructions suggest - so that the dealer does not give me grief if he has to fix a winow motor).
As things stand now - no more rattles (or buzz), no matter how high I turn up the HK, and the dynamat makes the interior a bit more quiet at speed. The doors also close with a more satisfying "thunk" now.
Don't know if you're willing to go that far, but I have not had a repeat to my problem.
Good luck.
Todd
_________________
BRG/B 2K3 MCS: premium, sports, cold, nav, rsws, H/K, aerokit, Whalen Shift **** & alarm...
Had the same rattle and employed a drastic fix. I took off the door panels and drilled 2 small holes in the back (3/8"
- right next to the plastic welds that hold the door tubes to the door panel. I then used a can of "low expansion" polyurethane insulating foam, about a 15 second shot into each hole, filling the tube handles. I let the panels dry overnight and then cut off the excess foam that had come out of the holes. I also used this fix as an excuse to add Dynamat Extreme (r) to the inside of each door panel (not the door frame as the instructions suggest - so that the dealer does not give me grief if he has to fix a winow motor). As things stand now - no more rattles (or buzz), no matter how high I turn up the HK, and the dynamat makes the interior a bit more quiet at speed. The doors also close with a more satisfying "thunk" now.
Don't know if you're willing to go that far, but I have not had a repeat to my problem.
Good luck.
Todd
_________________
BRG/B 2K3 MCS: premium, sports, cold, nav, rsws, H/K, aerokit, Whalen Shift **** & alarm...
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