I'm still not 100% certain, but as of now it looks like I'll be going to look at and very likely purchase an '05 MCS this weekend. My dilemma is that the particular car I'm looking at is at least 5 hours away from me, so I need my inspection to be as black-and-white as possible because it's going to have to be a one-shot deal. I've done a lot of searching on what to look out for when buying used, and most of the stuff seems fairly minor - especially on a car with warranty left. My question is, are there any definite "deal-breakers" I should really be on the lookout for? It's a late-production '05 with only 38k on it, and my impression is that the seller took decent care of it... But I'm terrified to purchase used vehicles after my last used car *cough* Porsche *cough* turned into a nightmare on me even after a favorable inspection.

Sorry for beating a dead horse, I know this topic has been covered before. I just need some reassurance! (On a semi-related topic, if anyone is in the Rochester area and would like to look the car over for me, that would be fantastic!)

 

The only deal breaker for me would be if it was an autobox!

 

Really, I think you're the only one who can determine what a deal breaker is to you.

 

I'd say deal breakers could include things like.. smoked in? Pets/pet hair/other pet by-products. But, these are personal preferences and if you're ok with it, then ok. Some people have an aversion to cars that have had any body work done. Remember a really minor accident can be $3000+ and have zero effect on the car mechanically so if it shows on a carfax, it might not be as bad as you think. Salvage title at this age might be asking a little much though.

Options? Deal breakers for me included the moonroof (heavy and I don't like sunroofs in general), and the nav/chrono pack options. I prefer the regular gauges. Do you like cruise control? Better get a car with the multi-function steering wheel because otherwise you don't have that option. I'm ok either way and I actually like my steering wheel free of buttons. I also dislike the two-tone leather option packs out there. If you like them, good for you.

Mechanically? Any pulleys over 17% maybe. The higher reductions could theoretically overspin the supercharger and possibly damage the water pump, etc but it is pretty unlikely. If it has an aftermarket crank pulley (no harmonic balancer) then I'd probably skip it. It's not like these are particularly rare cars - it is worth it to wait a little and buy the best one you can rather than settle on the first one you come across.

Any obvious wiring work on the car would be a deal breaker. Of all the stories I've read and heard re: Minis with terrible undiagnosable problems, they have usually come down to some hack job wiring or someone who tried to install an S-AFC or other piggy back and then removed it, messing up various wiring harnesses in the process.

If the car is taken care of (and being under warranty, it should be!) then you really shouldn't have much to worry about. Really most of the deal breakers are about your personal preferences and you should be able to figure that out without our help. I included a few of those because I didn't know about them until I had already purchased the car (ie cruise control/MFSW and nav/chrono).

I also know a thing or two about a positive inspection leading to a lemon of a used car (see dictionary entry for "Audi S4"). Good luck and hope to see you joining the motoring community as an owner!

 

Sounds good. I guess I have to keep in perspective what I'm looking at - comparing a 23 year old Porsche to a 3 year old MINI with warranty isn't exactly fair. Speaking of warranty though - How inclusive is the MINI warranty? The seller was telling me he was even able to get them to replace seats showing some wear... Is that normal, or do they generally only replace things that are broken / recalled? In other words, how big is my safety net if something turns up after the sale? I can only dream of how much better off I'd have been with even a few months of some sort of mechanical warranty on my 944... I had over $1000 worth of parts fail randomly within the space of 3 weeks about 2 months after I bought it, and it's still leaking oil, gas, and brake fluid !

 

Well for one the warranty IS fully transferrable. "Soft Items" are not actually covered by the warranty BUT some dealers will bend over backwards to get you replacements from MINI. *some* dealers. Others.... not so much. My warranty experience has been very good - every single repair at $0 despite the host of bolt-ons.

 

Ditto!

 

Easiest things you can do don't involve driving: Get the VIN and check with the seller's servicing (or local) Mini dealer to see how well it's been serviced, and whether it's a "good" car. Check carfax.

Aside from that, check the obvious when you go to pick it up:L General condition, conditions of fluids (oil: amber, antifreeze: not cloudy, brake fluid: full, washer fluid: present), condition of engine bay. Check carpeting and interior for any smells or problems. Drive it - any clunks? Does it drive straight? If you're driving it 5 hours home you'll notice all sorts of things, mostly the character of the car, but if it "pulls" you'll be peeved (and tired) when you get home.

Really, almost anything can be taken care of with a reduction in selling price, but it's best to find a car in decent condition. You're asking the right questions.

 

If you are really concerned and want a professional opinion,Google "0n site auto inspection in (location)" or "mobile auto inspection Rochester http://www.google.com/search?q=mobil...e7&rlz=1I7ADBR

You will get a list of sites such as http://www.switchboard.com/Find/Auto...ellowpages.htm

Schedule and appointment to take the car there after you negotiate a price for the inspection. Whan I lived in Western PA, there were mobile inspection/repair businesses that charged a flat-rate for the inspection and go-over of $75. There may be similar services in your area--check with AAA

 

I'm fairly mechanically inclined, so I usually trust my own analysis pretty well. I'm just always concerned that I might miss something that's specific to whatever car I'm looking at that someone who knows the car better might spot.

I guess it's always going to be something of a leap of faith though - I mean, most of the problems I've had with my 944 were things you couldn't have possibly detected through any kind of inspection. It looks like I'm going to have another week at any rate though, so that helps.

 

A 944 and a Mini are in different leagues as far as reliability goes... whle the 944 is reliable for a Porsche, it's a typical VW/Porsche product in that it always craves mechanical attention. The Mini, on the other hand, always craves driver's attention - which is good and bad too - long drives, in the Mini, while fun, aren't as relaxing as in other, larger vehicles. Don't get me wrong, I love long drives in the Mini, but if my life was nothing but long drives, I'd have an Avalon in a heartbeat. Wish I could afford both!

 

I would certainly look at the brakes, make sure the fluid is not like coffee; amber or blue brake fluid that is clean is a sure sign the owner did the regular brake fluid flushings. Pads and rotors should confirm the maintenance was really kept up with or the fluid flush was just "eye candy".

To me a clean well maintained engine bay is a good sign that the owner cared about the MINI. I wipe down my engine bay almost weekly; the dealership sees that I take care of my MINI and they also take a few extra precautions when working on her knowing I am a bit **** about her.

Just my 2 cents.

 

Being a fellow motorhead, I would skim through the forum and look at the maintenance issues going on. Look at the strut towers for mushrooming, clutch slave cylinder for leaks, engine for leaking antifreeze, electricals work, tire wear, clutch shouldn't make any odd sounds and if there is an odd noise that goes away when you depress the clutch you're looking at the Dual Mass Flywheel, supercharger for abnormal noise, things like this and so on...all in the NAM forum in the maintenance section.

Don't forget to look under the rubber seal that runs across the bottom of the door opening next to the sill for rust, that has been problematic for a few MINIs. Beware of any half-a$$ed mods too.

 

I would suggest getting an inspection done on the MINI before buying.

I just did this AFTER I purchased a used 2002 MCS...they found worn A-Arm bearings (getting fixed tomorrow), rusting exhaust, front tires down to 3mm (knew that already), brakes at 40% and other misc items...

 

the hydrau-electric steering systems on these cars are Rover parts bin leftovers and have been, according to my SA, the largest volume of chargebacks on warranty repairs of any "problematic" 1st gen component. I went through 2 of them on my 05 MCS--within 24K miles. first time internal seals, second time seals and pump--and fan, a total steering meltdown almost $3,500 charged back to BMW under warranty...

plus the steering "fluid" is hydraulic fluid, and its muy muy dinero

This is one reason BMW dropped that system in favor of all-electric. Good luck, there some sound advice in this thread, try to get a warranty if U can, watch for sketchy mods, expect to pay top $$, and if there's any fracking w/the wiring, run away.

 

Well, coming from Datsun Z's from the 70's where it's hard NOT to find rust like this 'round these parts...



I'm probably not likely to find a 'lil rust in the door sill too disturbing, LoL! I'm certainly well informed on how to deal with it, that's for sure! But yes, I have heard of the issue.

As for wiring... How would I detect if it's been monkeyed with - I assume it'll look a little off? Where are common places people mess with it?

 

UPDATE:
After the dealer replaced the A-Arms, they found a bad radiator.

Total cost: $1600

And I still need to buy tires...

 

I have an 06 MCS and had my driver's seat replaced w/no problem under warranty because it got a 4" ripple. They just recovered it, and now all is well. My dealer is da bomb!

 

Top ten deal breakers:

1. Previous owner was Britney Spears.
2. Seller's other car is a tow truck.
3. There is a live moose stuck in back seat.
4. Car is pink with Sponge Bob bonnet stripes and Squidward door panels.
5. Previous owner added corn syrup to tank thinking it was same as ethanol.
6. Originally had no sunroof, but has one now ...taken from a '72 Pinto.
7. Seller refers to the car as "The Lemonator".
8. When asked what kind of oil he uses, seller replies "Olive".
9. When asked whom he bought the car from, seller replies "Some guy in an alley in Newark".
10. When you go to check the mileage the odometer reads "Game Over".

 

reelsmith - ROFLMAO, those are great! You must write for Letterman.

 

On the wiring, just look for any aftermarket accessories (driving lamps, especially if not chrome, brand name audio componentry, DVD players, neon, and the like) and trace the wiring. If it's done well, you'll know it - clean splices, waterproofed connections, neat and tidy. Not all aftermarket or done-at-home wiring jobs are bad, you need to know what to look for.

If you see bare wiring, no looms, snap-lock splices, unwrapped butt connectors - or flashing lights, warning lamps, or smell insulation burning... run, don't walk - or buy it and use a DRY CHEMICAL fire extinguisher on the blaze.

 

I think you're smart for inspecting the car thoroughly, with the realization that it all boils down to a crap-shoot in the end, regardless.

Years ago, I bought a used Honda before the CARFAX web site became popular. I put 100,000 miles on it with literally *no* problems - I never had to do a single thing beyond routine maintenance, and it drove straight/true.

When I went to sell it, I ran a CARFAX report and found that shortly after being sold new, it was involved in an accident and totaled. It was issued a salvage title in Massachusetts, which the previous owner somehow managed to convert to a "clean" Virginia title before selling the car to me.

Had I known that at the time, I would never have bought the car, and would have missed out on what turned out to be the best used car I've ever owned.

 

I totally hear that... My 240Z was t-boned and totaled by the original owner. A mechanic took it in and professionally straightened it all out, then sold it to the 2nd owner who drove it for about 2 years before it was obliterated by hail...

23 years later, it drives and handles perfectly (even when pushed at autoX events), looks fantastic, and is probably one of the least-rusted 240's in New England. It's a shame too, because Carfax would make the car look terrible if that's all someone went by.

 

Look for strut tower mushrooming (plenty of threads about it on NAM) -- this is not going to be covered by warranty . . . so deal breaker in my book.

 

Thank you. I'll be here all week ...try the veal.