First off, we all know that the OEM boost headunit is no where near powerful enough to make good clean sound at high volumes AND push more capable speakers. So my plan is to simply use line level converter/s to power either one 4 channel amp or two 2 channel amps. Effectively the headunit is just an audio source, I know I can get cleaner sound by simply changing the head unit, but the fact is...I just don't want to. OEM Head and No Sub are requirements.

Another factor...this is where I will mount the amp, I haven't seen this done yet on Mini's but I want to have my system look COMPLETELY stock...speakers completely hidden as well as amps. With modern amps, heat production is much lower and then can handle tighter spaces, and companies are starting to make amps in smaller physical sizes.












As you can see...I like Crispix . Another thing you might notice is that I am using a cereal box to test the size of this compartment and what size amp should fit comfortably. The size that the box is in those pictures (as I shrank it down) is 7 1/2" x 2 1/4" x 8 7/8" give or take 1/16 or 2. Another thing to note is that you CAN fit a larger size in there, but you can't get it in through the access panel...so you would HAVE to mount something larger before putting the panel back on. But you can't get much larger. Also, the passenger side are is a little bit larger...

Now amps that I have been considering in order of my liking:

Arc Audio 125.2mini
Blaupunkt THA275PnP
Rockford Fostgate P300-2
Boston Acoustics GT-20

and the one 4 channel that MIGHT fit
Eclipse EA4200

I may or may not rewire the speakers from the amps depending on how worth it you guys think it is...using something like 14 or 12 gauge. Since crutchfield says they fit, I was planning on 6.5" components up front...more specifically Polk db6501's

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...7DB6501&tp=105

For the back I planned to stick with 6x9's now I let me know if this really is a bad decision. I do understand that an oval speaker will not produce as clear of sound as a round speaker...and that a 6.5 is likely a better choice for clean sound that I like. However, my reasoning for 6x9's is that I don't plan to, nor do I want to add a sub, I want to save what little trunk space we have...and keep everything looking stock. So, from what I understand, a 6.5 simply can not compete with a 6x9 in level of bass...and since I will not be adding a sub, and do want bass levels to be adequte I figure the 6x9 is a better option. Also, since it is a rear speaker anyway, and I want more sound coming from the front is it a problem to use a 6x9 in the back...I'm mainly using it to add more bass to the whole system and add a little sound in the back seats.

I'm looking at infinitys for back there, either the Kappa 693.9i or the Kappa 693.7i which is simply last years model and $90 cheaper.

Opinions? Comments? Suggestions? Help me out, I'm basically trying to build something better then DPSM at a cheaper cost and keep everything looking stock while I'm at it.

 

Buy these MOMO's instead of the 6501's, they are $90.00 off and they are much better speaker:

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...MMC6500&tp=106

I had DB's in front and replaced them with the above.

 

How were you powering the Momo's? And what in your opinion sounded much better? Does the bass hit harder and cleaner, and the Mids that much more full, do the highs sound more crisp and clean? What is better about them? I notice that their sensitivity is 90db vs 92db of the db's which would probably work out better for me since I will be powering them with an amp...

edit* Also, Crutchfield doesn't list the Momo's as being able to fit in the Mini doors? You got yours to fit...did you do so without modification to the door panel? How did you get them to fit.

Any other recommendations? Is my reasoning for 6x9's in back good?

To anybody else, Arc Audio 125.2 @ ~$330 vs Blaupunkt THA275 @ $250... the Arc is rated at 70x2 the Blaupunkt 75x2 would you think the Arc Amp is worth the extra $160 (remember two 2 channels)...or would you go for the Blaupunkt...now my top choice based on value.

 

Alpine MRP-F450 4 channel amp.

The MOMO's sound better, low mid and high range. They will take awhile to break in, so don't judge how they sound right after you install them.

They will fit with spacers.

Check out the Polk forum: http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/foru...daysprune=&f=5

They will tell you the MOMO's are far superior to the DB's.

Make sure you use additional sound deadner also. This is a good place to get some : http://www.secondskinaudio.com/

 

I installed an Alpine PDX-4.100 in the rear compartment. Replaced the front speakers with JL Audio XR650-CSi and rear CL-69 - CDT Audio 6x9" 200 Watts Mid-subwoofers.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...d.php?t=143155
I am very happy with my current system. However, if I were to install the amp again, I would install below the pas. seat. It is just not convenient to make adjustments to the amp in the current position and I have yet to reinstall the panel door.

 

A couple of things....

Use a good quality line-level converter. They are not all created equal. I use one from Navone Engineering that is fantastic. You can find one here:
http://www.davidnavone.com/cart.asp?24&cat=7

Also be aware that there is a rear channel drop-off at 30 hz outlined in this thread:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...d.php?t=150567

Good Luck!

 

You might want to try one of the higher end signal processors for more control over the sound. I'd also recommend the Alpine PDX amps, they're nice and small, and fit flush under the front seats after you remove the foam block. Those combined with whatever separates you want with a ton of sound deadening should provide you with an excellent sound.

 

Awesome! Thank you, thats exactly what I want to do. I'm surprised that the Alpine PDX fit back there, obviously a very tight fit but it fits none the less. I could install under the pax seat but really I want it completely hidden, and even under the pax seat with people getting in and out of the car, moving the seat foreward and back you'll see wires and stuff from time to time. As for adjusting the amp. Once I have it set, I really do not plan to adjust it at all. I would believe that it would be a serious pain to re-adjust it in that location, especially that amp as you would have to completely remove the plastic panel.

How did you build that metal plate behind it?



Now knowing that rear-channel drop off I guess it only makes sense to use a 4-channel like the Alipne and use the line converter off of the front speakers...but unfortunatly I loose fade control now and balance control also through the HU?

If I were to use two of the Blaupunkt 2 channel amps I was going to power one of the front speaker signal and the other off the rear speaker signal to retain fade. However, that thread that you sent me to is for 2nd gens...does that drop off still occur with the 1st gen MINI's?

I'm am not an audio noob...but only one step beyond at audio ameture...explain signal processors?

 

Ok...so installing this:

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...441DSP&tp=6870

in simple terms is sort of like installing a high end head unit. It will re-adjust all the factory signals and take out any distortion as well as "remove" the below 100hz filter for the rear speakers. It will also act as a line level converter for me, correct. So what I can do with one of these is plug in the FR, FL, RR, RL speaker inputs...then send the outputs to the amp via a set of RCA's as I normally would with an aftermarket HU and wire up the new speakers as normal. I would retain fade and balance control with a unit like this correct? As well as gain addition control over the speakers and have even more clear sound...

If ^ that is correct consider me sold that will make the job easier and everything sound better, I'll install the processor on the driver side and amp in the pax side...now this is getting expensive :D oh well...

Amp - $500
Signal Processor - $300
Front Speakers - $200
Rear Speaker (suggestions ?)
Wiring - $50

 

Can you not use a line convertor and just swap the inputs around. Use front speaker input to drive rear channels, rear speakers for front channel?
As to the mounting plate that I made... I started with a cardboard template, cut to the outline of the amp. After initial tests, I simply cut the mount out of some aluminum sheet that I had laying around. If I were to make again I would shift the amp 1/2 inch farther back, then the compartment clips would still work.
As to the location, It is a bit of a pain to remove the side panels in order to adjust the gains and crossovers, but once you have it set there will be no worries...

 

I could, but then the fronts would suffer. Not that they need to play ultra low freqs but why intentionally hide them from them?

 

I've seen ones from alpine and rockford fosgate have very extensive control over the EQ. I'd look at those.

 

I was looking at them...but 500-600 is not what I'm looking to pay for that part of the system. I don't need it to be the best non-sub system on the block. Just something that sounds good for the right price.

 

I replaced my head unit with an Alpine as 99% of my music is from my ipod/iphone and the interface is a bit better than the Dice interface. I also installed the Alpine Imprint unit and after much fooling around with it, I am very happy with the final sound quality.
Have a Dice and line convertor that I will be posting FS...

 

I put a Rockford T600-4 under the front seat powering a set of MBQuart Premium 6.5's up front and old school Kicker 6x9 subwoofers in the sidepanels. It jams.

 

lol @ the old school kickers, good stuff