I want to see if anyone's bought the std plates and added a strut bar? I have a mill and the equipment to do it. I know M7 says you cant add a bar to the plates and it looks like they've milled a section out to counter this but what about the cravens?

Yes I know I can just buy the M7 STB but this seems like more fun and a little more cost effective up front ( I already have the metal)

 

Anything could be done and it sounds like you have the skill and tools to do it. I look forward to seeing the outcome.

One of the debates on NAM has been the value and usefulness of the strut bar. Thats why M7 sells plates with and without. Craven seems to think the bar is not needed on MINI's. Plus the bar doesn't fit under the hood, bonnet for PGT , of most R50's.

 

[quote=ih8cornnuts;2432687]
STD's and a strut tower brace???
[quote]

Umm.....I would have to say buy a cheaper strut brace and use the money you save to buy yourself some condoms.

 

Glad I wasn't the only one thinking that this thread was about erectile dysfunction caused by venereal disease... If that were the case, then I'd suggest some popsicle sticks and athletic tape.

::ahem:: To the OP...I have no contribution to your question, though I am curious about the answer. Best of luck.

 

You mean getting a strut tower brace wont cure my gonorrhea?

I've read most of the posts debating the usefullness of the STB but I think what I was really looking for was extra bracing to help with the windshield not cracking again. I just got it replaced and every creak and rattle in the dash I'm expecting to run a nice streak across the glass. I curious if theres any corelation there. And it would be a fun project. I think the cravens have more material around the towers to mill out. It looks liek M7 milled that area with the logo to counteract people trying to retrofit a bar on there.

 

You may find the TSW X-Brace would take care of that issue too. https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...uct/265/cat/73



You may find this link helpful, https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...t=cabrio+brace for the red brace you see in pic below.

 

That X-brace is steak sauce, but a little pricey for me right now. If I was working I wouldnt even fret it.

I already bought the cabrio braces I just havent installed them. I was thinking those and a STB would box that front in like mad.

 

Strut-top braces are useless on the MINI as to handling: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...d.php?t=150258

Also, consider the new Mini-Madness Strut Tower reinforcement. It goes between the tower and the strut, where it can actually be effective.

BTW, the Cabrio diagonal braces work well.

 

I actually wasnt looking at them for handling but for NVH and as a way to reinforce the frame to keep my windshield from cracking yet again.

I installed the cabrio braces yesterday and can already hear the difference over bumps and rough roads. The car feels a little more planted and peppy but that could be from the fresh oil, plugs and fuel treatment. Otherwise best $50 bucks I've spent in a while.

I think the next step could be the TSW brace or OMP lower with a OMP upper. When I replace the struts I'll toss in some IE camber plates for shroom protection.

BTW whats the new madness strut bar? I looked on there site and only saw the lower one, the only upper was the OMP.

 

Ok, the effectiveness of a strut bar on the Mini has been something that has been debated for quite some time now. How would you guys feel if I did a little experiment.

I have the M7 FSB, and no I do not notice any large appreciable difference in handling with it on or off. But I imagine it can't be hurting so I leave it on. Now here is my idea:

We know that the bar itself comes in 3 pieces. Well, my thought is to remove the middle portion of the bar and put a rod of balsa there secured with a zip tie on either end and go for a quick drive. If there is some sort of compression in the towers hopefully the balsa will break. If the towers NEVER move then it should look the same as when I close the hood to go for the drive. Then we can put this myth to rest with a vid to back it up.

For the OP's question, it normally helps to know the girl a little before hand...then you can find out about those dirty secrets realistically, I'm sure it can be done.

 

I'd like to know the results, if for only the fulfillment of my own curiosity.

 

I started off with the M7 plates and later went to their full STB, but I didn't mess around with milling the plates - I just sold them for most of what I paid for them and put the money toward the STB. Also, I don't know if you can buy the center section separately, even if you do mill out the plates.

I've suggested to M7 that they could stop making the regular reinforcement plates, and instead just use the endplates from the STB setup with a little decorative plastic pop-off cover to hide the milled section. That way, if anyone ever wanted to upgrade from the reinforcement plates to the full STB, all they would have to do is pop off the plastic covers and install the three-piece bar.

 

Sorry - typo - I meant the new M-M tower reinforcement plates - a functional alternative to the Kraven and M7 tower-top decoration.

As to handling effectiveness of a STB, see the link above - you won't find any movement between the strut tower tops, as measured on an alignment stand, and using the OMP top brace. BTW, the OMP lower brace works well.

 

Several years ago Randy Webb did a similar test but he used two hollow rods, one that fit inside the other. A dial indicator was attached to measure deflection or how far the one rod moved into the other rod. Results Zero movement. He then jack up one side of the vehicle way up in the air thinking that the vehicle weight placed on one side would cause some deflection. Again... Zero.

 

I've looked at the MM strut plates but planned on using camber plates in the near future. I didnt think they'd work together so I nixed them.

Also those tests sound interesting. I'm sure the whole community would like the results. Like stated before I'm looking at the strut bar as a way to reduce interior noise and possibly keep the glass from breaking. I understand the its ability to not add to the handling prowess of the car. My carbio braces have already lowered the creaks and moans of the interior but more is always better.

 

Any curved strut "brace" is not a brace, it is a spring. If the tower-tops were to actually move toward/away from each other at all, the spring will simply arch or flatten, and won't not prevent such motion.

Now if the that darned airbox and ECU weren't in the say, so you could fit a straight-line brace, it could actually prevent tower-top motion (if there was actually ever any in the first place).

 

All this has been said before, as noted. To recap.--
1. Top braces are bling as there is no evidence presented that there's a problem here.
2. Even if these braces worked, the M7 has mounting slots in the direction of the movement intended to be prevented (!!)
3. Lower braces might actually work.
4. Mushrooming is prevented by plates under the towers, not on top. If the top plates did work, it would only be through preventing the bolts from splaying out--but the mounting holes are large enough to obviate this.

Of course, OldRick has already said this, but it's worth repeating, just so we don't have hear it again.

 

Randy Webb
Andy@Ross-Tech and now
OldRick...

Results are the all the same... Top bar does little or nothing. Yet many want more data...

Matt

 

Mine is going up on Marketplace as soon as I shoot some pix.