R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006) Cooper (R50) and Cooper S (R53) hatchback discussion.

R50/53 "MINI Flu" cured For My R53 :)

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Old Jun 23, 2008 | 01:18 PM
  #1  
Eurothrasher's Avatar
Eurothrasher
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"MINI Flu" cured For My R53 :)

After 57,000 mi, my 03' Cooper S all of a sudden began having issues starting after being parked overnight. It would crank, but not turn over the first time around. It was not until the second attempt to start the engine would it fire up. Additionally, I has some erratic idle at times when stopped at light ect while having only been running for the first 5 mins.

I felt strongly from years of auto mechanic experience that it had something to do with the fuel system and/or pressure in the lines. So I ordered a new fuel filter and gasket kit, and changed it myself. Same fuel in tank that has been there right along.

After changing the fuel filter, I experience non of these issues.

If anyone wants directions with photographs on how to do your own fuel filter, I took photographs and notes on the entire process. I tried to post it here, but each thread only permits 3 photos per topic, and I have about 15 pics.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2008 | 01:37 PM
  #2  
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Crashton
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From: Over there on MA
That would be a great how to. A way to get around the picture limit would be to post them on a site like photobucket & put a link in your how to article to the photos there. Photobucket is free.

http://photobucket.com/register/?ref=headerregister

Glad you fixed the flu.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2008 | 01:39 PM
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Eurothrasher
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I'll Give it a try

Originally Posted by Crashton
That would be a great how to. A way to get around the picture limit would be to post them on a site like photobucket & put a link in your how to article to the photos there. Photobucket is free.

http://photobucket.com/register/?ref=headerregister
Never used photobucket, but I will certainly give it a try and definately post it here.....
Thanks!
 
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Old Jun 23, 2008 | 01:39 PM
  #4  
UnsanePyro's Avatar
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I'd love to see the how too.

Just like Crashton said, host them someplace free like Photobucket, and link them, so you can do it all in one post.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2008 | 04:49 PM
  #5  
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Diy Mini Fuel Filter Replacement W/pictures

Required:
1) New Filter and gasket and O Ring kit ( Purchased mine from Atlantic British at Minicarparts.net - for about 38 bucks.
2) 10mm socket
3) flat bladed screw driver
4) rubber mallet or light hammer
5) Small angled hook tool to remove small O-Rings
6) Old (clean) Turkey baister
7) Rags
8) Rubber Gloves
9) Plastic Covering - to Cover the area working to protect from gasoline drips ect.
10) Vaseline

http://s294.photobucket.com/albums/m...t=PICT1662.jpg

The Fuel Filter is located under the back passenger side seating area. You need to pull up the lower portion of the back seat, Front comes straight up, the back releases when it is then pulled forward.

Find the large black Tank Cover lid. Cover the area surrounding it with duct tape and thick plastic. You dont want the inside of your MINI stinking like petrol when we are done.

http://s294.photobucket.com/albums/m...t=PICT1659.jpg

Removed the five 10mm nuts with socket, pry up the panel exposing the top of the entire sending unit. Some Chipmonk left me a gift on mine Vacuum any debris that is ontop before proceeding....

http://s294.photobucket.com/albums/m...t=PICT1664.jpg

Loosen the Locking Collar Ring with flat bladed screw driver and rubber mallet, gently tapping until the ring moves freely enough to remove by hand.

http://s294.photobucket.com/albums/m...t=PICT1665.jpg

If you are able to remove the ring then proceed to cover the fuel line connector with rags, and press the green side tabs INWARD and pull the connector out. A little petrol will come out under some pressure, but not a big deal.

http://s294.photobucket.com/albums/m...t=PICT1667.jpg

Remove the metal locking ring, and secure the fuel connector aside and out of the way with some duct tape..

http://s294.photobucket.com/albums/m...t=PICT1666.jpg

Gently pry up the Entire Sending Unit, Remeber it is sitting in a fuel tank....NO SMOKING PLEASE

http://s294.photobucket.com/albums/m...t=PICT1670.jpg

Gently Lift the unit up about 3-4 inches ONLY, grab the top with one hand and the sides with the other and twist to unlock the top and pull the cap off. It was not easy, and you have to be careful of the various things attached to the bottom part ( sending unit arms and stuff ) Some of it is made of (breakable) plastic and you dont want that stuff falling into your tank !!!! I used a rag wedged in between the unit and the tank edge to help keep it in place.
After separating the top from the bottom, gentley place the bottom back, and remove the top and the filter should come with it. Carefully remove the old filter from the cap and dispose of it immediately in old coffee can or something similar. That black fuel can make a mess.

http://s294.photobucket.com/albums/m...t=PICT1671.jpg

Remove the Large thin O-Ring and using the turkey baister suck the blackish fuel from the inside of the bottom assembly exposing the small O-ring and center post. ( please dispose of this old fuel properly )

http://s294.photobucket.com/albums/m...t=PICT1672.jpg

Remove the small O-Ring from the center post with a small hooked tool. Mine was somewhat brittle enough to removed by just picking at it.....But make sure to remove any small pieces that may fall to the bottom of canister.

http://s294.photobucket.com/albums/m...t=PICT1673.jpg

Remove O-Ring from inside of Cap too.

http://s294.photobucket.com/albums/m...t=PICT1674.jpg

Break out the Lube - Cover the new O-rings with a small amount of Vaseline before installing them.

http://s294.photobucket.com/albums/m...t=PICT1675.jpg

This particular Gasket ring has to go in ONLY one way, Make sure you put install this with words " THIS SIDE DOWN " facing down into tank.

http://s294.photobucket.com/albums/m...t=PICT1676.jpg

Pull up Canister from tank a few inches, holding tightly - press the new filter into bottom half with slight twisting motion. Then press the canister cap on the same way and press the two halves of the canister together, and a short twist to lock them together.

Slide the Gasket seal down ( with words " THIS SIDE DOWN" ) and press into place with your fingers, working them around the assembly until the gasket is flush

http://s294.photobucket.com/albums/m...t=PICT1677.jpg

Place the canister in the tank with the lid tab lined up with the tank collar
slot,

http://s294.photobucket.com/albums/m...t=PICT1678.jpg

Twist the metal locking ring back on hand tight, then securely with flat blade screw driver and mallet giving it a few taps to snug it up good ( Do not strip it, it should just snug up about 1 inch further or so

http://s294.photobucket.com/albums/m...t=PICT1681.jpg

Push in the fuel line unitl the green locking tabs snap in place. Refasten the tank cover with the 10mm nuts. Remove plastic covering and duct tape, place a label over the lid with mileage and date of Filter change, secure back seat into place.

http://s294.photobucket.com/albums/m...t=PICT1682.jpg

Place your key in the ignition and turn to positon 2 then to the off position about 5-6 times. This will re-pressurize the fuel system. Then it should start right up. Just for the heck of it, check under your vehicle for the next few days for any leaking fuel from that area. Mine was bone dry, but I was very careful and took my time with everything I did.

This was my first time and I was done in one hour. I should think it could be done in half that time with this experience.

My MCS now starts up first time everymoring as well
 
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Old Jun 23, 2008 | 05:57 PM
  #6  
Crashton's Avatar
Crashton
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From: Over there on MA
Thanks for sharing that how to. Very well done.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2008 | 06:24 PM
  #7  
HighLife4136's Avatar
HighLife4136
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From: Somewhere just left of off center
Here ya go:

Originally Posted by Eurothrasher
Required:
1) New Filter and gasket and O Ring kit ( Purchased mine from Atlantic British at Minicarparts.net - for about 38 bucks.
2) 10mm socket
3) flat bladed screw driver
4) rubber mallet or light hammer
5) Small angled hook tool to remove small O-Rings
6) Old (clean) Turkey baister
7) Rags
8) Rubber Gloves
9) Plastic Covering - to Cover the area working to protect from gasoline drips ect.
10) Vaseline




The Fuel Filter is located under the back passenger side seating area. You need to pull up the lower portion of the back seat, Front comes straight up, the back releases when it is then pulled forward.

Find the large black Tank Cover lid. Cover the area surrounding it with duct tape and thick plastic. You dont want the inside of your MINI stinking like petrol when we are done.



Removed the five 10mm nuts with socket, pry up the panel exposing the top of the entire sending unit. Some Chipmonk left me a gift on mine Vacuum any debris that is ontop before proceeding....



Loosen the Locking Collar Ring with flat bladed screw driver and rubber mallet, gently tapping until the ring moves freely enough to remove by hand.



If you are able to remove the ring then proceed to cover the fuel line connector with rags, and press the green side tabs INWARD and pull the connector out. A little petrol will come out under some pressure, but not a big deal.



Remove the metal locking ring, and secure the fuel connector aside and out of the way with some duct tape..



Gently pry up the Entire Sending Unit, Remeber it is sitting in a fuel tank....NO SMOKING PLEASE



Gently Lift the unit up about 3-4 inches ONLY, grab the top with one hand and the sides with the other and twist to unlock the top and pull the cap off. It was not easy, and you have to be careful of the various things attached to the bottom part ( sending unit arms and stuff ) Some of it is made of (breakable) plastic and you dont want that stuff falling into your tank !!!! I used a rag wedged in between the unit and the tank edge to help keep it in place.
After separating the top from the bottom, gentley place the bottom back, and remove the top and the filter should come with it. Carefully remove the old filter from the cap and dispose of it immediately in old coffee can or something similar. That black fuel can make a mess.



Remove the Large thin O-Ring and using the turkey baister suck the blackish fuel from the inside of the bottom assembly exposing the small O-ring and center post. ( please dispose of this old fuel properly )



Remove the small O-Ring from the center post with a small hooked tool. Mine was somewhat brittle enough to removed by just picking at it.....But make sure to remove any small pieces that may fall to the bottom of canister.



Remove O-Ring from inside of Cap too.



Break out the Lube - Cover the new O-rings with a small amount of Vaseline before installing them.


This particular Gasket ring has to go in ONLY one way, Make sure you put install this with words " THIS SIDE DOWN " facing down into tank.



Pull up Canister from tank a few inches, holding tightly - press the new filter into bottom half with slight twisting motion. Then press the canister cap on the same way and press the two halves of the canister together, and a short twist to lock them together.

Slide the Gasket seal down ( with words " THIS SIDE DOWN" ) and press into place with your fingers, working them around the assembly until the gasket is flush



Place the canister in the tank with the lid tab lined up with the tank collar
slot,



Twist the metal locking ring back on hand tight, then securely with flat blade screw driver and mallet giving it a few taps to snug it up good ( Do not strip it, it should just snug up about 1 inch further or so



Push in the fuel line unitl the green locking tabs snap in place. Refasten the tank cover with the 10mm nuts. Remove plastic covering and duct tape, place a label over the lid with mileage and date of Filter change, secure back seat into place.



Place your key in the ignition and turn to positon 2 then to the off position about 5-6 times. This will re-pressurize the fuel system. Then it should start right up. Just for the heck of it, check under your vehicle for the next few days for any leaking fuel from that area. Mine was bone dry, but I was very careful and took my time with everything I did.

This was my first time and I was done in one hour. I should think it could be done in half that time with this experience.

My MCS now starts up first time everymoring as well
 
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Old Jun 24, 2008 | 05:28 AM
  #8  
Tstroh's Avatar
Tstroh
2nd Gear
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 135
Likes: 0
From: Fargo ND
Very nice! I believe that NAM should start getting together all of the DIY walkthroughs like this and post them in a seperate forum, once they are done of course. That way if you need to do something you can find everything in one place! MODS, Take note.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2008 | 05:31 AM
  #9  
fishey72's Avatar
fishey72
5th Gear
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 800
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From: Asheville, NC
Note to self good DIY post.

Although my car w/43k has done all those symptoms for a long time...ever since about 10k...
 
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Old Jun 24, 2008 | 06:09 AM
  #10  
TKooper S's Avatar
TKooper S
1st Gear
iTrader: (1)
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
From: Central MA
have the SAME symptoms. i think im going to give this a try in the next week or two
Thank you very much!
 
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