OK, I'm going to try this again. Stick to the thread this time unlike the locked request for upgrade input! Thanks for the 2 people who actually suggested something

What's the best diet method for the Cooper? I need the back seats so that's not an option. I'm replacing the exhaust with a lighter one but where else can you shave weight without making it unsighlty or unsafe.

 

you can always save a few pounds by dropping the spare tire in the garage and buy a few cans of "fix-a-flat"....

 

lighter battery

 

remove the spare and carry a can of fixflat? works for "S" owners. and Switch to SSR's 11lbs per wheel is a good savings

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If you dump your 4light bar, thats a few lbs as well.

 

I see you also have a MSD coil, if you take that out and switch to an M7 plasma booster, you'll save a few grams on weight and in the process switch to a more efficient ingition soloution.

 

Just so you know, the replacing the front seats didn't change anything weight wise. MCO user ficcion did that (Randy and I were there) and the leatherette sport seats weighed the same as the Sparcos with the mounting brackets.

 

Spare was never there (had runflats) so I've the can of fix-a-flat or awhile. I like the battery idea and will explaore it when I move the battery to the trunk. I've got a friend who is going to help me make a unit similar to the madnees intake but with a double wall intake pipe that we're going to plumb for CryO2. The design has some issues but its going to be fun trying to pull it off. The effects should be longer lasting than squirting it onto a hot intercooler but we'll see. It had better add some HPs because it sure as hell is adding some weight

 

how about Sparco or Cobra racing buckets? you'll save a few there as well. Are you allowed to switch these out? are you racing? I'm not talking about the replacement street seat either. I'm talking about the recining sseat but the CF, non reclining bucket.

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But the 4 light bar looks SO GOOD

Looks just like my 65 Cooper... except it runs

 

>>Just so you know, the replacing the front seats didn't change anything weight wise. MCO user ficcion did that (Randy and I were there) and the leatherette sport seats weighed the same as the Sparcos with the mounting brackets.



I would never have guessed.

 

>>I see you also have a MSD coil, if you take that out and switch to an M7 plasma booster, you'll save a few grams on weight and in the process switch to a more efficient ingition soloution.


When is M7 site going to be up? You seem to be in touch with them often

 

I don't know when the site will be up but here.

M7
Peter Horvath
562 712-3270

just so you know, I'm not sponsored. I was looking into an MSD, but I lucked out and won a M7 Plasma Booster at the MightyMiniZ beach party thing. since I've had it installed, I did additional research, and decided to keep the Plasma booster instead. (My MSD is sitting in the Garage as we speak)

 

M7 the site is not up... but you can contact him via email at m7speed@earthlink.net and of course through PM here at M7 or M7Speed

 

I think if the driver gets a diet, it will benefit the whole car...

 

>> I've got a friend who is going to help me make a unit similar to the madnees intake but with a double wall intake pipe that we're going to plumb for CryO2. The design has some issues but its going to be fun trying to pull it off. The effects should be longer lasting than squirting it onto a hot intercooler but we'll see. It had better add some HPs because it sure as hell is adding some weight

better, since what ever weight you might have lost you'l' definatly gained and then some. (but just to be safe, weigh all of the parts you take off, and weigh the cry02 system, prior to install with a full tank, now you have me curious)

 

If you are serious about weight loss....
And have a knack for the dramatic...
Carbon Fiber hood and Lexan Windows.
Replace the Gas tank with a fuel cell

 

Hi guy's.......

I know that everyone want's the web site up and running asap and it will be a partial site with the Plasma Booster
explaining the theory, technology etc. It will start up next weekend.

What would I do to get rid of.............. weight?

1. Carbon Hood....I have a hood that will be dry fitted tomorrow if every thing works and fitts I will be taking pre orders
right away...The hood is gorgeous you will love it. And for you MC owners i will have a CF hood very........... very soon.
2. Super light weight Titanium exhaust (very soon).
3. Volk Racing CE28N wheels/ Toyo R1 tires, my favourite combo and it looks bitchin.
4. Super light weight brakes...........can't tell you more right now.
5. Cobra Misano Carbon fiber seats.......... yummmmy.
6. Tubular swaybars.
7. Control arms chrome moly very light weight.
8. Coilovers with Titanium springs.......:smile:

peace

peter
562-712-3270

 

I would never stick anyone in these back seats - GONE = 47 lbs, including hardware and belts... Oh, and an SLA battery at 13.5 lbs will save you another 20 over the stocker. You can shave another couple pounds with a tubular rear sway, and 1 to 3 or so more per rear control arm. This weight is all in the "rear" though. Up front - a lightened flywheel! Go with coilovers also. Randy shared a ways back that he weighed some that were 8 lbs less, per corner. There are more, and it appears that M7 will be a great source for us who understand that it's not just HP, but weight to HP
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2003 IB MCS

 

There is a lot that can be done to reduce the weight - but many of these would not be acceptable for most people. For the average driver that doesn't want to make sacrifices like no Air conditioning(I would remove mine but i'm in texas).

-Lightweight Battery in warmer climates or for summer months
-Lightweight Wheels (in 16s I would say the Volk TE-37s are one of the best bests - in 17s I would go with the Centerline RPMs).
-Tires - Light is very noticable here - but you need to remember you are messing with grip as well - a very lightweight tire with no grip will suck...for street summer use I suggest the Toyo T1S Proxy, Yoko ES100, or Kumho MX
-Lightweight flywheel

Many of the other things are very expensive (though do work) but the list above I would use as a starting point for anyone that doesn't want to pay out their nose for these items or have to give up certain luxuries of their car...now if you are racing your car throw this all out the window as it is a whole new ballgame then.

Seats can remove weight - but you would have to go to a fixed back seat like the Sparco EVO IIs - alteast with sparco - i've noticed the weight of the cf seats isn't that much more - 13 for a fiberglass seat compared to 11 for carbon fiber for example...but the price is double. For the adjustable seats you won't save much if anything in weight - but in my opinion will gain in comfort and quality.

remember there is two main areas to focus the weight savings on - rotationally mass like the wheels and front of the car weight like a sla battery relocated to the boot instead of under the hood.

_________________
Cheerio

Casey Swenson

<a href="http://www.thegreatminiroundup.com"><img src="http://www.promini.com/banners/round...></a>

 

Inflate the tires with helium. (I think there are dangers involved though)

 

>>OK, I'm going to try this again. Stick to the thread this time unlike the locked request for upgrade input! Thanks for the 2 people who actually suggested something
>>
>>What's the best diet method for the Cooper? I need the back seats so that's not an option. I'm replacing the exhaust with a lighter one but where else can you shave weight without making it unsighlty or unsafe.

I think there are several approaches. Some practical and some theoretic.
So first question is Why lighten? You can get better performance with more power- add HP/torque and keep the same weight. Most people do this method. Or you can keep the same power and loose the excess weight. Weight of the car itself or of all that goes into the car- the stuff you haul around, the people, gasoline etc.

Next- where are you going to drive the car? On the street- then it needs to be street legal. On the track? Then you can pull out all the stops and take off whatever depending on what you are trying to do- race? Then abide by the rules.

Lets assume that you wish to drive on the street. You have done some power upgrades. You put yourself on a diet and lost 10 pounds (more is nice-depends on your determination). You drive with a half tank of gas. You don't keep the spare tool kit and jack because you have runflats. You don't have tons of audio upgrades/speakers/amps/sub,etc. You didn't order the sunroof (extra 50 pounds).

For the car the best place to loose weight in in things that rotate. For every pound lost in the wheels/tires it is about equal to 4 pounds of non rotating weight lost. So the very first place to start for the biggest effect is a set of very lightweight wheels- rims and tires. Consider 15" or 16" rims with the smaller usually being much lighter. Keep tires to a minimum in size and this cuts rolling resistance but it will not be as grippy. Lightweight generally means less strong so be careful and also can mean higher cost- alot higher when you get to 17" wheels or larger. Forged rims are stronger than cast.

The other thing about any lightweight upgrade is reduced reliability- will it last as long as a replacement part or will it wear out faster as a result of less mass and faster metal fatigue. At some point you have basically cut all of the simple weight off and then there are only small gains to be made using exotic materials like aircraft aluminum, titanium, or carbonfiber. These options can be very very costly.