Changed oil on my new 08 in the driveway. Believe I did it right; believe everything went back the way it came out, but a couple of things don't line up with what I've read here. I would feel better with a little confirmation that I haven't left a timebomb in the little darling.

First, the oil drain plug didn't have a copper ring on it when I took it out. The new BMW filter came with one. I put it on and tightened the bolt until I believe the copper ring crushed a bit. I didn't see any leaks when I started it up and ran it after the change. Was I right to use the copper ring?

Second, I had to pull the old oil filter a bit to get it out of the housing. The new one seemed to snap in. Both were held in, but were a bit loose. I think that must be normal.

Third, one thread on oil changes here on NAM indicated that there is an insert that goes inside the oil filter, but I didn't see one. The old filter had plastic up its center. The new one had the same plastic core. No separate core to lose and not put back. Did I miss something? Does the core sit in the metal base that is part of the engine? No oil lights came on in a test drive of about 5 miles. Nothing left under the car.

Lastly, the original O-ring seemed to be thicker than the replacement ring. I oiled the new ring and put it in the same groove the old ring came out of. Both rings were the same diameter. No leak detected after the short drive.

If this all sounds right, would appreciate a thumbs-up. If not, I'll have to go fix it.

R

Thanks.

 

Spot on!

 

Sounds about right!

 

Are you sure there wasn't a copper washer stuck to the oil pan or stuck to the drain plug? If it's not leaking now, don't worry about it. But you might want to look for two washers the next time. If it's really stuck on the plug you might need a little screwdriver to pry it off. Also the plug should be tightened to 30 Nm or whatever that is in foot lbs. While some might think it's overkill to use a torque wrench on everything, until you have a feel for proper torque the only way to know for sure is to use a torque wrench.

 

Perfect!
Regarding the copper ring, it's called "crush" washer, so I guess you're suppose to crush it. But seriously though, if you're crushing the ring, you may be over torquing the plug.

 

Good point!

 

No leak. I looked at the drain hole and there was a raised collar around the hole. I thought that was part of the pan, but I'll be it's the old crush washer. If it's not leaking, I don't think I want to drain the oil to get it off--unless you think I am asking for trouble.

I didn't use a torque wrench, but I will buy one. The oil filter cover has a torque setting on it. On both the washer and cap, I tightened until I didn't feel any more movement with moderate pressure--no cheater bars or long handled ratchets. I don't think I went to far.

Appreciate the help.

R

 

I just snuggled up to the air dam and fondled the oil pan drain plug. I'm convinced that there is a black collar around the hole that is part of the pan. And if there is a second crush washer on the plug, I guarantee it isn't apparent.

Is it possible that the factory ships cars without a washer and the crush washers are only needed thereafter?

 

That would be correct!

 

Thanks. I'll sleep tonight. When my MINI isn't right, I"m not right.

 

I changed my oil today and the "black collar" you mention on the oil pan IS the crush washer. I had to stick a flat head screw driver between the washer and the oil pan and then it just popped off. Did you say you installed a new crush washer? If so you have two of them on there, but as long as it's not leaking shouldn't be a problem.

rrcaniglia, what kind of oil and what weight did you use?

 

During my 1st DIY oil change, I had to pry my factory installed crush washer off with a small screw driver due to the fact that it was painted to the pan. Knowing you now have two on top of each other, I'd be looking for leaks frequently.

 

Yeah, during my oil change I had to pop the original crush washer off. It wasn't like it was glued on but it needed a little help coming off.

 

One can get away with reusing a crush washer. I've done it several times, but eventually it won't seal because the copper can't be crushed anymore. So, he's probably fine with just checking the spot where the car is parked for a oil stain from time to time. However, he's probably going to be just fine.

 

that would be incorrect.

 

I agree as I've re-used them several times myself with no bad results, however, he's got two on top of each other. The original washer was not removed and a new one was placed over the original. He's probably OK, but I'd still check daily if I were him.

 

I think you have TWO crush washers there now. No problem as long as you dont have any leaks.

 

You're probably right. There should be no raised area around the oil drain hole. I had to pry the washer off when I did my oil change. If it's not leaking, I'm sure you're fine to wait until next time. You should know pretty quickly if you develop a leak...but I highly doubt you'll get one after the fact.

 

This is a question along the same lines, but for an '06. (the '08 just left port). When I did an oil change on the wife's 2006, the filter came with a new O ring, which I used. I also buggered it up and had to run to the autoparts to get another (which only comes with a filter). These were Fram filters (I think) and the O rings didn't fit quite as good as the old original MINI O ring. Do the OEM filter O rings fit pretty good or seem a bit loose as my Fram did?

 

You did it. Now pay yourself $75 per hour.

 

Ok smarta$$ have you changed your MINI's oil.Mine was not equipped with a crush washer and I know several other MINI owner's who have discovered the theirs didn't have one either.I suppose YOU have an explanation for this?Would THAT be correct?

 

The O-ring that comes with the OEM oil filter fits fine. It is identical to the one that came off the old filter.

 

I used 5W30 Mobil 1 Extended. Wanted to use Royal Purple, but during warranty period, I don't want to use SL when the book calls for SM. Couldn't get the 5W40 SM Royal P in time.

I will watch under the car for drips. Time to get back in my aviation habit of checking the pad as I am hovering off.

 

One tip on removing the old crush washer - a small, thin, flexible putty knife will probably work better than a screwdriver if the old washer is stuck. A putty knife is much less likely to scratch or gouge the pan. You don't want any scratches in the exact spot you need to have properly sealed by the new washer.

 

Understand. Thanks. My wife has a pallet knife, but if she won't part with it, I'll try a gentle lateral tap with a piece of wood against the washer.

If I'm lucky, I won't have to do this for another 5k, which for me is about 3 months.

BREAK BREAK

If I use a clean catch can, is there any problem with draining the oil and putting it back in the engine--should I have to fix the double washer business? I know in aviation we'd never do this, but I can't see why not here. Don't like idea of dumping $40 worth of oil with only a couple hundred miles on it.