Suspension Springs, struts, coilovers, sway-bars, camber plates, and all other modifications to suspension components for Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.

Suspension H-Sport camber plates - exposed

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Old Aug 7, 2003 | 03:23 PM
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RandyBMC
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Here are some shots of the new H-Sport camber plates. They adjust from .25 negative camber to 2.2 negative camber for the front of the car. The camber plates are under the strut tower, while they do require drilling two new mounting holes, they do NOT require cutting of the strut tower. They are adjustable for camber only (not caster). They can also be incorporated with the H-Sport stress brace. To adjust camber, you loosen the three top mount nuts, unload the front wheel, and slide the strut back or forward to the desired setting. It's pretty simple, but is not lineated for different settings. More eval to follow.



















They are available, but I haven't finished with the eval process on the coilover units. These camber plates change the top spring hat to match the underside of the camber plate, so specific coilover perches are on the way for that part of the eval. Up to this point, they have worked without a problem on a car equipped with the H-Sport springs during autocrossing. That car has 2.1 degrees negative camber dialed in on both sides. The cost for these units from MINI-Motorsport is $420.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Randy
720-841-1002

 
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Old Aug 7, 2003 | 03:29 PM
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minihune
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Very nice. I like the blue (matches my H-sport adustable rear control arms)
Any idea how much the full set weighs? Is there any significant weight gain/loss after addition of this upgrade?
 
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Old Aug 7, 2003 | 03:42 PM
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Per side, the stock plate weighs 1.8 pounds. The H-Sport camber plate weighs 2.7 pounds. No weight savings It is worth the additional weight to get the camber though - whether it is the H-Sports, the K-Macs or the P&D/Motorsport plates.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2003 | 03:43 PM
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I'm trying to figure out the action during steering movement via internet. The spring is retained on the shock by the perch and secured with a nut (not shown) that fastens into the interior of the lower black metal object with the six hole pattern. Then it looks like that black object is passed through the large hole in the slotted plate, surrounded with some sort of doughnut, and captured by screwing down the blue cap. what allows the bearing action in strut rotation (steering)?
 
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Old Aug 7, 2003 | 03:50 PM
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The black piece inside the white bushing - though it's hard to see here:


 
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Old Aug 8, 2003 | 10:14 AM
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Chayse
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How do these compare with the P&D plates? The P&D do not require any drilling correct? Would it be worthwhile to have the caster adjustability as well as camber? Or, do we now have too many adjustments and one affects the other? I'd like to know your's and JLM's thoughts.

Thanks.

Fred
 
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Old Aug 8, 2003 | 10:39 AM
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jlm
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The idea with the P&D plate was to be able to adjust camber and caster independently and repeatably to marks and do all the work above the fender. For example, once you have your castor setting, you can adjust the camber without having to risk altering the castor; in any case, there are reference marks indicating where your settings were. Once dialed in, for example, you could arrive at the track with the cruise camber setting, loosen a few bolts, slide the plate to the mark indicating your pre-determined track setting. After the event, repeat, going back to the cruise marks. All the while, your castor could stay as it was set.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2003 | 03:03 PM
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I think the P&D plates are a more thorough answer, but you pay for it. There is definitely a market for both. The P&D plates work as John mentioned above, and they do the job well. The caster is independently adjustable from the camber, and the units are lineated. The factory caster actually works well, but another .75 degrees or so helps some. You do still have to take the load off the wheel and loosen all of the mount bolts, as well as the camber or caster adjustment bolts to move the setting. The H-Sports are camber only, require two holes to be drilled, but only require the three bolts to be loosened to adjust the camber, and they are $420. The are not lineated however.

My opinion, they are both good ideas and units.

H-sport

$420
camber only
3 bolt and wheel unloaded to adjust
sturdy
non-lineated
drill two holes to fit

P&D

$700
camber and caster
5 bolts and wheel unloaded to adjust either caster or camber
lineated
no holes to drill

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Randy
 
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