R50/53 Grooved Drilled Rotors, Please Suggest
Grooved Drilled Rotors, Please Suggest
Hello guys, I'm planning to change my stock rotors, pads and calipars. "This is the first time to change and maintain the brakes after 1.25 year and 18k miles". Please suggest good and heavy duty rear and front drilled rotors. My main points are:
-They should be grooved and drilled at the same time.
-Weight is important. I'm doing street racing.
-The look is important.
-Front and rear should be identical (a set).
-I'm going to use the OEM JCW front brakes pads/calipars.
-Rear calipars/pads would be searched for later.
Waiting for your vendor/manufacturer suggestions.
-They should be grooved and drilled at the same time.
-Weight is important. I'm doing street racing.
-The look is important.
-Front and rear should be identical (a set).
-I'm going to use the OEM JCW front brakes pads/calipars.
-Rear calipars/pads would be searched for later.
Waiting for your vendor/manufacturer suggestions.
Last edited by Marwan; Mar 14, 2008 at 02:53 PM.
Ummm, I care for temprature and looks. I think the drilled would address the heat issue.
Why would street racing require good brakes? Don't you just do like in Fast & Furious and go in a straight line until then end? Ohh...maybe you're like the Fast & Furious 2 where you race through city streets and fishtail around corners!
hopefully your term of streetrace is an event that is sanctioned and legal... and if you plan to race with drilled rotors, expect them to not last very long.
but anyways, i use zimmerman slotted/drilled, with ceramic pads....but the only racing i do is the occassional drag race at the track.
hopefully your term of streetrace is an event that is sanctioned and legal... and if you plan to race with drilled rotors, expect them to not last very long.
but anyways, i use zimmerman slotted/drilled, with ceramic pads....but the only racing i do is the occassional drag race at the track.
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Mainly, I like the slotted/drilled rotors for the look. They look great with red calipers, right?
I don’t know what would be best based on all the criteria you listed, but for looks, drilled & slotted on the same rotor, look at these http://www.raceshopper.com/sp_rotors.shtml , for extra cost they can be had nickel coated which will keep them from forming unsightly rust on the non-contact surfaces. They are made in the U.S. so international shipping may be pricey, the nickel option requires some lead time, and they lack extra machining costly rotors have.
It is not speed that causes accidents, mistakes do, it’s not racing that cause collateral damage, mistakes do; on the street there is risk of causing injury to others when mistakes are made. Injury to innocent persons as a result of street racing is a common occurrence here; you can not expect us/me to condone an activity like that. If I attend a sanctioned race, a motor blows, and I’m struck with debris, it was my choice to be there. Innocent persons in the vicinity of a street race do not have a choice. I don’t think you should not be able to mention that type of activity, but you should be aware others have the right to voice their dissent if you do.
It is not speed that causes accidents, mistakes do, it’s not racing that cause collateral damage, mistakes do; on the street there is risk of causing injury to others when mistakes are made. Injury to innocent persons as a result of street racing is a common occurrence here; you can not expect us/me to condone an activity like that. If I attend a sanctioned race, a motor blows, and I’m struck with debris, it was my choice to be there. Innocent persons in the vicinity of a street race do not have a choice. I don’t think you should not be able to mention that type of activity, but you should be aware others have the right to voice their dissent if you do.
I don’t know what would be best based on all the criteria you listed, but for looks, drilled & slotted on the same rotor, look at these http://www.raceshopper.com/sp_rotors.shtml , for extra cost they can be had nickel coated which will keep them from forming unsightly rust on the non-contact surfaces. They are made in the U.S. so international shipping may be pricey, the nickel option requires some lead time, and they lack extra machining costly rotors have.
For my use, I want them to look great, that it! I do street racing but this is once a week or something. I'm using my Mini as a daily drive so only heat problem is what I'm trying to address using the drilled.
Hello k-huevo, do you trust these guys? I trust your opinion but if you compare those people to someone like brembo or any other manufacturers specialized for Mini, do they count?
For my use, I want them to look great, that it! I do street racing but this is once a week or something. I'm using my Mini as a daily drive so only heat problem is what I'm trying to address using the drilled.
For my use, I want them to look great, that it! I do street racing but this is once a week or something. I'm using my Mini as a daily drive so only heat problem is what I'm trying to address using the drilled.
honestly, drilled, slotted does the same thing for cooling and dust and gas evaporation, i personally prefer slotted as i don't ever run the risk of micro-fractures, that said, drilled are a bit better on pads (as in not as aggressive)
i sure hope you street racing is safe... honestly, i prefer track, as i won't run the risk of running some pregnant woman into a ditch... its people that street race here that is causing people like me who only track the car to be marked by the cops
In my city, there are known places to do street racing. Add to this, in Saudi we never see people walking or passing streets. Because of many reasons one is the very hot temps of weather. Only damage happens to properties and drivers. Thanks god I've never ran intro troubles but I might. I try to choose cars I race with, places, timing, look for police patrols and make it quick, fast, short. Only to show off my car power or to test it against known stronger cars.
In my city, there are known places to do street racing. Add to this, in Saudi we never see people walking or passing streets. Because of many reasons one is the very hot temps of weather. Only damage happens to properties and drivers. Thanks god I've never ran intro troubles but I might. I try to choose cars I race with, places, timing, look for police patrols and make it quick, fast, short. Only to show off my car power or to test it against known stronger cars.
The SP rotors do not have machining steps Brembo takes to ensure parallelism, limited run out, and finishing on the hats. I have a set of drilled SP rotors I have not installed, so I can not answer whether the extra machining found on Brembo Sports is worth more than the cosmetic appeal of a smooth surface on the hats.
The only personal endorsements I can provide as it relates to MINI brake components are Powerslot rotors, Ferodo DS2500 pads, StopTech SS lines, and ATE fluid, but that has to do with performance more than looks. My move to drilled SPs and Hawk HPS pads is an experiment in wet weather performance.
The only personal endorsements I can provide as it relates to MINI brake components are Powerslot rotors, Ferodo DS2500 pads, StopTech SS lines, and ATE fluid, but that has to do with performance more than looks. My move to drilled SPs and Hawk HPS pads is an experiment in wet weather performance.
Thanks for the picutres
I think this is enough and I should not go for the SP as I think they are a bit expensive
. I've requested a qoute from SP anyways.
Mini Mania
I used the Mini Mania kit that comes with the drilled rotors and pads. Link below. I did not do the stainless lines.
I love the pedal feel - however, when you brake, you hear a slight whoosing sound - must be the air somehow going through the holes?
Wear has been great, and the brakes are solid.
Viraf
I love the pedal feel - however, when you brake, you hear a slight whoosing sound - must be the air somehow going through the holes?
Wear has been great, and the brakes are solid.
Viraf
Actually, that could be a sign of a bigger problem. If the air sounds like it's coming from under or behind the dash, there's a definite chance the power brake booster is on it's way out.
no booster problem
The booster is fine. This started happening the day I installed the drilled rotors. The same thing happens on my Landcruiser.
You can only hear it with the windows down, and normally when driving close to a median.
Thanks for the warning, though.
Viraf
You can only hear it with the windows down, and normally when driving close to a median.
Thanks for the warning, though.
Viraf
to answer your brake question,
A good set up using OEM calipers is to the following:
EBC grooved and dimpled rotors, front and rear look the same
EBC green stuff pads.
SS lines (lots to choose from)
bushing kit.
GOOD fluid change and bleed
BBK is a different story ... big step up.
A good set up using OEM calipers is to the following:
EBC grooved and dimpled rotors, front and rear look the same
EBC green stuff pads.
SS lines (lots to choose from)
bushing kit.
GOOD fluid change and bleed
BBK is a different story ... big step up.
to answer your brake question,
A good set up using OEM calipers is to the following:
EBC grooved and dimpled rotors, front and rear look the same
EBC green stuff pads.
SS lines (lots to choose from)
bushing kit.
GOOD fluid change and bleed
BBK is a different story ... big step up.
A good set up using OEM calipers is to the following:
EBC grooved and dimpled rotors, front and rear look the same
EBC green stuff pads.
SS lines (lots to choose from)
bushing kit.
GOOD fluid change and bleed
BBK is a different story ... big step up.
Any Links for the Rotors, lines and pads?


