Harbor freight had a 1/4" torque wrench on sale for a super low price so I bought one. Does anybody know how to read this torque wrench? The lb increments are such that there is a line coming from the # and then that line zig zags down. I am unsure of where to set the torque setting. Does it go right where the line is @ the number or does it get set at the lower portion of the line after it zig-zags down.

Thanks,
K

 

Perhaps a picture to help, or go buy a real one from sears.

 

The Sears wrenches have the same basic markings as the HF units. I have a Craftsman, my Dad has the HF unit.

I have always set mine in between the numbers. Take into consideration I have never used it on something other than lug nuts. I'm interested as what others have to say also.

 

Because of glare against the wrench it would never show up. Here is a quick paint drawing of a part of the scale. Not sure if it helps

 

Where the horizontal line meets the verticle is the setting.

 

Well hell, the scale is even in Inch Lb's. It only goes up to 200 inch lbs with is only just over 16 foot lbs... Oh well, it was like $7 on sale...

 

My Sears Torque wrench died and I only used it 4 or 5 times. Bringing it back one of these days.

 

Good luck, they only warranty the ratcheting part of torque wrenches (if it doesn't turn into a knucklebreaker, they dont take it back)

 

I thought Sears would take any Craftsman hand tool and replace it regardless of its damage, no questions asked.

 

Yeah I was under the same impression. I seen a guy bring in a 10 year old hammer and they replaced it.

 

Sears will not replace a "precision tool". Meaning a torque wrench. If it was a regular wrench or crewdriver they will.

 

Yes the Harbor Freight ones you need at least the 3/8 to do lugnuts I have all three ...

 

I had a Craftsman torque wrench that wasn't working up to snuff and they replaced it without question. If you buy the Craftsman Digital torque wrench, I do believe you need to buy the extended warranty to get a replacement. I like the standard wrench. They just had all three of the torque wrenches on sale during the Craftsman Club week for $59 each.

I have never had Sears refuse to replace any tool that was damaged and I have returned everything from steel chisels, broken screwdriver tips, broken tape measures and even a table saw that wouldn't align properly. No questions asked.

 

I have found that if your nice and to the point Craftsman will be replaced .. I have had more than 1 "Precision instrument' replaced...

Harbor freight is hard to beat ... I have MANY of their tools and ALWAYS buy the extended warrantee.. Last purchase was a 18 volt 1/2 " drive impact wrench ... 39.99 and 9.99 for a3 yeay warrantee for ANYTHING !
REALLY nice for my tire changes at the track !

Torque wrench ... to be honest I may shop one or two steps up from Harbor ...

 

That's been my experience as well... Of course, they usually replace the defective unit with a crappy "reconditioned" unit with an impossible-to-remove sticker on it, but it's better than re-purchasing a tool. I bought my socket set in 1987 and I've replaced both wrenches more than once. Good deal for them - I always seem to buy another tool when I'm in replacing the broken one.

 

Sears will usually replace any of their tools. I almost never use a torque wrench unless I can fit it in where i need it. I usually don't have the room, so I just go with the "that's about as tight as I think it needs to be" method. lol

 

All I really want one for are my lugs and spark plugs. The HF one isn't beefy enough for that task?

 

3/8" drive for most tasks. You could use it for lug bolts, but that may be pushing it a little. The half in drive is better suited for the wheel bolts, comfortably within its most accurate range (generally the middle third of its adjustment), and the longer handle makes for easier tightening. Don't use a torque wrench to break nuts 'n bolts free; the initial effort needed to start turning can easily exceed the wrench's working range. IMO.

 

How tight to the lugs need to go? 16 foot-pounds seems pretty light-duty.

 

That's not for big bolts! Its not surprising it's in inch-lbs or whatever.....

Matt

 

+1
NEVER use the t wrench for removal ... GREAT advice

Also ... ALYAYS return the setting mechanism to 0 (ZERO)

 

Old school: 3 grunts and a kick with whatever wrench you could find.
New school: 89 ft/lbs +/- 7 ft/lbs. (120 Newton meters for our brethren across the pond using that new-fangled French metric measurement system)

 

Beware of the lesser expensive torque wrenches, they may not read the correct ft/lbs. Have it checked against a known standard... someone with a good quality unit.

 

When it comes to tools I find that you get what you pay for.

I've gotten the "good deal" tool and used it once and either broke it or kept wishing I'd just spent the extra and got the quality tool. I eventually go get the quality tool...LOL

Craftsman stuff is good.

 

The break-away/ratcheting torque wrenches usually come as follows:

1/4 in drive: 10 - 150 in/lbs

3/8 in drive: 100 - 750 in/lbs

1.2 in drive: 700 - 1400 in/lbs

I used these a great deal in the Air Force, and while extremely easy to use, they require annual calibration, unless it is dropped or handled roughly; then it needs immediate calibration. I always keep the type that has the long pointer that indicates the torque via diflection of the torque wrench. These usually have in/lb, ft/lb, and nt/mtr scales on it. These are a bit more rugged and have worked very well for me.

Cheers-