I'm looking for some advice on fitting up the lower rear valance panel. As you can see in the pictures the support for the valance on the left is welded behind the wheel well (see the red arrow) and the one on the right is welded on the inside of the wheel well. Why it's like this I can't answer. I noticed that it did not line up all that well before and now I am probably going to weld a piece of metal on the right side to cover the rust holes on that "mud flap" looking piece. Which is probably going to make it worse.

I guess I could weld the patch for the rust on the inside of the wheel well but I think it would look cleaner on the back side.

I also have to cut out part of the floor pan and the hinge panel and fit those up but I want a good idea of where I stand on the valance before I start cutting stuff out.

I'm not really sure about the best way to approach this. I'm not sure if I should take the right side off and weld it like the left or if some sort of shim would be better. Anyone have any thoughts? Thanks!

 

I'd fix the floor first, then the boot hinge panel, then the closing panels, and finally the valance... The closing panels are welded to the floor which on your car needs serious replacement. They need to be removed to fix the floor.

Do you need any panels? I may have a rear boot floor repair panel (item #8) and a lower hinge rail (Item D)...




For the closing panels, I'd remove them, repair them & reinstall them. Or buy replacements after the floor is done.

Replacement panels


MINI REAR VALANCE FILLER CLOSING PANEL LEFT The rear valance of the Mini is a panel that is very often in need of replacing. While rear end damage can be a good reason, the most often cause is rust. The panel itself is very simply and easy to replace, but a through inspection is critical to insure long life. On either end of the main rear valance is a this closing panel with several 90 degree bends. This panel closes off the rear side of the valance on rear side. It is this area that the splash from the rear wheels hits first!

 

I have panel 8, 9 (for both sides) and panel c. I was going to try to repair the floor without removing the closing panels because I have the floor separated far back enough that panel 8 should fit in there after I cut the old piece out. At least thats what I was thinking, but now after you mention it It may be tough to work without removing them. I wasn't planning on welding in the panel 9s because all of the rusted metal will be replaced by panel 8.

I am kind of afraid to remove the closing panels because I think it might have trouble getting them lined up later. Once I cut out the floor and the hinge panel, there won't be anything to use as a reference which is why I'm a little weary about getting started.

I guess if I remove the closing panels I will definitely replace them.

 

Clarification Panel 9 is L or R. Panel 8 includes the rear half of panel 9. It looked like you only needed panel 8. I think you have to remove the closing panels from panel 8 to remove all of panel 8 on the outside edges. Your closing panels are rusty on the bottom edge anyway on the one side. Measure where they mount on the car and mark panel 8 prior to installation.

Could you repair the floor with panel 8 while leaving Panel C as a guide for length? Then repair with Panel C using the new floor as guide? Everything will be measured from wherever you cut the boot floor. Be sure to account for the thickness of the cutoff wheel or whatever tool you use.

I have to do a similar repair but with a much larger section of boot floor. Probably to the front edge of the spare well. :impatient

 

Thanks for all of your help!

I was going to work from the top of the floor which is why I wanted to cut panel c out at the same time. With the closing panels off it would be easier to work from the bottom.

My favorite part of the repair so far was finding all of the randomly placed spot welds. It's kind of like a treasure hunt except you never find any gold.