R56 Optimal Break-in Driving
Vary your speed as you drive. Don't maintain a constant speed. Stay below 4,500 RPM and below 95 mph for the first 1,200 miles. It would probably be good to mix the kinds of driving you do. Generally, city driving is harder on cars than highway.
Ya. It's really, really hard. Maybe one of my better displays of self restraint. I'm at about 600 miles now, and it's killing me. I've accidently hit like 4800-5 twice on a downshift to stop, but I've been good otherwise. Mostly city/stop & go, too.
Good luck man, you're gonna need it
I've done some research on breaking in motors and i'm getting a different story. From what I've read, you need to do quite a bit of taking the car up into high rpm and then engine brake back down to slower speeds: This is because your piston rings have to seat, there are burrs on them when they are new that are used to score the cylinder walls. If you take it easy on the car in the beginning, those burrs will not have a chance to wear the cylinder walls in as well as they could have.
***The wear that they do helps seal the cylinder for better compression
***The wear that they do helps seal the cylinder for better compression
tripping
I would go on the trip, and vary your speeds as mentioned....when I picked up my '03 MCS in New York in September of '02, I drove it out to California in seven days....3100 miles........opinions will vary :-)
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I've done some research on breaking in motors and i'm getting a different story. From what I've read, you need to do quite a bit of taking the car up into high rpm and then engine brake back down to slower speeds: This is because your piston rings have to seat, there are burrs on them when they are new that are used to score the cylinder walls. If you take it easy on the car in the beginning, those burrs will not have a chance to wear the cylinder walls in as well as they could have.
***The wear that they do helps seal the cylinder for better compression
***The wear that they do helps seal the cylinder for better compression
The1,200 mile 4,500 RPM and 95 mph limits are set by MINI, and the on board computer records maximum RPM. So, if you had engine warranty repairs, the dealer could see your redline numbers. If they wanted to, they could use that against you in any disagreement over whether it was a warranty issue or due to abuse. I think that the chances of this being an issue for you are small, but it will probably happen to someone.
Any way you can turn the 600 miles into non-interstate driving? When I was in my break-in period, I used it as an excuse to tour the local roads.
When I was building race motors for air cooled Porsche's, we'd do an initial break-in in the shop, running it 20-30 minutes @ 2000rpm to let the cams break in, then take it out to a long moderate hill. run it up the hill from 3k-6k, then engine brake it back down the hill.
Of course the tolerances and alloys in a modern water cooled BMW/Peugeot motor are going to be quite different.
One of my friends builds & repairs sport bikes, which would be more in line with a mini, first thing they do with a new factory bike is drain the synthetic & fill with regular oil (as the synthetic is too slippery to let the rings seat), then run the **** out of it for a bit before switching back to synthetic.
There really is no definitive consensus on engine break-in, baby it too much and the ring's won't seat, beat on it too hard & you'll glaze/burn/break it
this is one of the better write-up's I've found
http://www.ntnoa.org/enginebreakin.htm
Of course the tolerances and alloys in a modern water cooled BMW/Peugeot motor are going to be quite different.
One of my friends builds & repairs sport bikes, which would be more in line with a mini, first thing they do with a new factory bike is drain the synthetic & fill with regular oil (as the synthetic is too slippery to let the rings seat), then run the **** out of it for a bit before switching back to synthetic.
There really is no definitive consensus on engine break-in, baby it too much and the ring's won't seat, beat on it too hard & you'll glaze/burn/break it
this is one of the better write-up's I've found
http://www.ntnoa.org/enginebreakin.htm
For those who still think that running the engine hard during break-in falls into the category of cruel and unusual punishment, there is one more argument for using high power loading for short periods (to avoid excessive heat) during the break-in. The use of low power settings does not expand the piston rings enough, and a film of oil is left on the cylinder walls. The high temperatures in the combustion chamber will oxidize this oil film so that it creates glazing of the cylinder walls. When this happens, the ring break-in process stops, and excessive oil consumption frequently occurs. The bad news is that extensive glazing can only be corrected by removing the cylinders and rehoning the walls. This is expensive, and it is an expense that can be avoided by proper break in procedures.
We must achieve a happy medium where we are pushing on the ring hard enough to wear it in but not hard enough to generate enough heat to cause glazing. Once again, if glazing should occur, the only remedy is to remove the effected cylinder, re-hone it and replace the piston rings and start the whole process over again.
We must achieve a happy medium where we are pushing on the ring hard enough to wear it in but not hard enough to generate enough heat to cause glazing. Once again, if glazing should occur, the only remedy is to remove the effected cylinder, re-hone it and replace the piston rings and start the whole process over again.
Well I sure hope highway isn't bad because I will pick mine up in San Antonio, drive to Ft Worth (270 miles) then back to Pensacola (680 miles). Between that there will be a little bit of city driving... not too much though. I will just vary the speed
Also, if you have a manual transmission, the gear ratios are closely-spaced enough that you can vary the engine speed by changing gears, without having to vary your road speed. Even at typical highway speeds, you should be able to use 6th gear, 5th gear (and probably 4th) without running afoul of the 4500RPM break-in limit.
Biggest thing is not to use cruise control. When I've broken in new cars (several), I've varied the speed on the highway by cruising relatively steadily for a few miles, than let up entirely on the power until the car slows quite a bit, then gone back to a cruise. The closer you are to the 1250 mark, the less I do this.
Of course, this can **** off the driver behind you, so you have to use caution, but it works very well on the interstates between cities. (Don't get run over by the 18-wheelers, though!)
We've gotten great longevity doing it this way...starting with our '64 Porsche SC's rebuilt engine, back in the day...
Of course, this can **** off the driver behind you, so you have to use caution, but it works very well on the interstates between cities. (Don't get run over by the 18-wheelers, though!)

We've gotten great longevity doing it this way...starting with our '64 Porsche SC's rebuilt engine, back in the day...
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