Cooper (non S) Modifications specific to the MINI Cooper (R50).

Any forced induction for standard Coopers?

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Old Nov 1, 2007 | 10:00 PM
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From: The Dirty Jerz
Any forced induction for standard Coopers?

is there any forced induction kit for standard mini's? cause i would like an aS but idk if my budget is gonna allow me to get one. also there is a standard 03 mini with like 40k miles for like 10g's locally
 
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Old Nov 2, 2007 | 10:09 AM
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Someone on here has been tooling around with a Rotrex kit but there's no definite "here it is, buy it" as far as I know. With a standard R50 Cooper being 10.25:1 compression from the factory, your best bet is to bite the bullet and get an R53. You can swap internals for aftermarket but thats big cash and a lot of time invested.
http://www.rotrex.com/
 
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Old Nov 2, 2007 | 10:14 AM
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From: The Dirty Jerz
wow didnt know the standard ones had 10.25:1 compression ratio ok i think i will just have to bite the bullet, thanx for the advice saved me a lot of time and cash lol
 
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Old Nov 2, 2007 | 10:15 AM
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It will be cheaper to buy a stock S. The prices seem to be dropping these days too.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2007 | 10:16 AM
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If the compression was just lower, they would be a great motor to boost because the factory NA motors are tight internally. This is why MINI uses factory synthetic oil. Great for holding boost but not with high compression.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2007 | 10:26 AM
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A guy in PA attempted to turbo-charge his MC... never really got it working right (ECU issues) and last I heard was trying to sell the car. Screen name is "turbomini" or "miniturbo" or something like that.

The general consensus is an MCS will be cheaper in the long run and a whole lot easier... That said, a NA MC is still be a fun car to drive... just do what you can to reduce weight (especially rotating mass) and keep your momentum up.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2007 | 10:29 AM
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And learn how to outdrive all of those pesky R53/56 drivers.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2007 | 02:21 PM
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i too would agree with the price being way to much... but, if you have the money, anything can be done. you can turbo anything, doesnt mean it will last or perform the best though. a thicker head gasket to lower compression would probly put you down low enough to not worry about detonation. but the cost of a custom manifold and all the stand alone stuff, it would be a small fortune.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2007 | 07:39 PM
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I have been battling these demons since Ive had my car since May 03. So, I have done virtually everything there is to be done to the MC before breaking into the motor/trans. My list of mods can be found below in the link. At one point I was going to build a fully-built NA MC. But for the extra bit of money...why not be in the high HP ranks. There's only 2 reasons why a MCS motor is better to turbo than the MC. 1-ECU is already set up for recognizing boost. 2-The MCS motor has oil squirters. Getting around these two points arent hard. WHAT IM DOING is slowly building up a seperate fully built MCS engine, 6-sp tranny and custom building my turbo setup. The hardest part of that job is wiring up all the cabin electronics and engine bay harnesses. But since my car is gutted...I dont see that being a real problem.... Good luck! You'll need it. Oh btw, by the time I hit 100K sometime late next year or so all this work should be done. Unless, I do go ahead and buy a new 335 then the Mini will be ditched so I could play with that....lol
 

Last edited by UKSUV; Nov 2, 2007 at 07:42 PM.
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Old Nov 21, 2007 | 07:05 PM
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I think wt. savings is the Key. Like IanF said in post #6. Hemiheaded18, had a point as well, the driver is the ticket on the twistys, not the car.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2007 | 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by hemiheaded18
If the compression was just lower, they would be a great motor to boost because the factory NA motors are tight internally. This is why MINI uses factory synthetic oil. Great for holding boost but not with high compression.
You think our plastic intake manifolds can hold boost?...Nope. My 3-series' intake manifold would crack right at 10psi.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2007 | 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by UKSUV
You think our plastic intake manifolds can hold boost?...Nope. My 3-series' intake manifold would crack right at 10psi.
My cavalier's plastic manifold held about 13psi. All in all, a 2.4 liter Z24 motor @ 13 psi was much faster than a Cooper S.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2007 | 01:21 AM
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I have two friends that had the Ponitac Bonnaville SSE, Supercharged V-6. Their cars had Plastic manifolds, they did break after a few years. Right after they went out of warrenty. Replaced with the older heavier aluminum manifold.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2007 | 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by rjtrout2000
My cavalier's plastic manifold held about 13psi. All in all, a 2.4 liter Z24 motor @ 13 psi was much faster than a Cooper S.
Well..of course. Your talking .8L more displacement and what...stock boost for an S is somewhere around 8psi Im guessin'? Anyways, we are talking about Coopers not an S
 
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Old Nov 23, 2007 | 07:36 AM
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It is a lot easier to make non-s Cooper, handle and stop great than it is to make it fast in a straight line. Take a little weight out, intake, and catback, thats fine.
When you start talking, about going into the engine, head change, camshaft, etc. Unless you are racing the car, just go buy a "S"
 
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Old Nov 23, 2007 | 09:38 AM
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hmmmm, head and cam, hmmmmm Darn JCW stuff i just had to buy means no head or cam or ecu or TBs for me this winter, i just wish, oh well, next year..... Beecher
 
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Old Nov 23, 2007 | 09:39 AM
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just trying something hear
 
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Old Nov 24, 2007 | 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by UKSUV
You think our plastic intake manifolds can hold boost?...Nope. My 3-series' intake manifold would crack right at 10psi.
My cavalier's plastic manifold held about 13psi. All in all, a 2.4 liter Z24 motor @ 13 psi was much faster than a Cooper S.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2007 | 09:39 PM
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Oops, re-post! Chalk one up for the home-built PC.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2007 | 05:00 AM
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I have a question...has anyone moved the battery to the boot and then fitted a sealed cold air system for the "S" like an Alta or equivalent? These are probably superior to the normal ones.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2007 | 05:37 AM
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I haven't done it but its on my list for spring summer to do.

Maybe include an S hood and use the scoop to bring in air?
 
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Old Dec 5, 2007 | 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by blue_bomber
a thicker head gasket to lower compression would probly put you down low enough to not worry about detonation.
Okay, a side question, sort of.

Let's say one were to put a thicker head gasket on a Cooper. Would this lower the compression ratio enough to be able to use regular gasoline? Since the timing may not have to be retarded by the computer, would gas mileage not drop? How would performance be affected?

I realize these may be hypothetical questions, but do any of you internal combustion experts have any insight?

Zip
 
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Old Dec 5, 2007 | 07:34 PM
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http://www.turbospecialties-race.com...er/mc2001s.asp

Complete kit.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2007 | 02:05 AM
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Originally Posted by turboaz2
Does it come with an intercooler? Any dyno sheets?
 
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Old Dec 6, 2007 | 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by erickvonzipper
Okay, a side question, sort of.

Let's say one were to put a thicker head gasket on a Cooper. Would this lower the compression ratio enough to be able to use regular gasoline? Since the timing may not have to be retarded by the computer, would gas mileage not drop? How would performance be affected?

I realize these may be hypothetical questions, but do any of you internal combustion experts have any insight?

Zip
The people who run small amounts of boost through S2000's usually just add a spacer or a thicker gasket. And, they run about 12:1 from the factory. In school, we had a 13:5 BBC that we went from a .125 gasket to a .025 and that brought it up to about 14.2:1. A small change in thickness makes a big difference in compression. Gas mileage would drop because you're still adding more fuel and I'm sure timing would have to be altered due to pulling it as boost adds in.
 
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