The description of benefits for progressive rate springs (like the H-Sports) generally includes something like: "rear spring rates are slightly stiffer to offset the factory programmed understeer, creating an almost neutral feel"

The description of benefits for sway bars generally includes a similiar comment like: "improves handling giving the car an almost neuteral feel by allowing you to induce oversteer at will"

Assuming each mod individually improves handling and reduces understeer/increases the tendancy for oversteer, should I be concerned with too much of a good thing if I was to do both mods? I realize that the sway bar is adjustable but might it still be too much when combined with the springs?

Please post your observations/impressions if you had one and then both of these modifications. I appreciate your input.

Regards,
Jim

 

This is why it's nice to have an adjustable rear swaybar. :smile:

 

Sorry, I know it's lame to revive your own thread but I'm know someone out there has to have both mods on thir car and can provide some insiteful comments.

(and now the obligatory...)

..Bueller?

 

I have both mods. I originally had the H&R springs and the madness sway bar on the stiff setting. For me the ride was too harsh on Texas concrete so I switched to the H-Sports. Now I have c car that is both lowered and has a smooth ride. As for oversteer, I would say that my car handles dead neutral. I've pushed the car pretty hard and have not felt the rear break loose any more than the front. Four-wheel drifts are easy and controllable. I hope that helps.

 

Mckinney,

Thanks for pipeing in, I've been considering spring choices for quite sometime and never heard from anyone who had actually switched aftermarket springs, I was already leaning towards the H-Sport w/camber links and this helps.

Kevin

 

Yes, get the adjustable control arms (camber links as you said). You can then easily set the car up for different uses (street or track). You can even paint marks on the arms and count the turns between one setting and the other. That way you save on alignment costs. I recommend negative 1 degree for the street and optimum tire life and 2 - 2.5 negative for the track. You can also get camber plates for the front and do the same there.

 

Okay 1 degree neg. for the street and 2 to 2 1/2 neg, for the track. Now who out there has actually made these changes during a track day or at an event and what did it do on the watch? We run a couple of times per month. Both high speed open track events and tight autocross events. Just looking for input as for what it all shows on the watch. Sorry, I know this is a little off topic but in the end it is the topic.

Thanks

 

It will help lap times - and greatly save tire wear. I always use a tire pyrometer to adjust camber and pressure. Those numbers sound like good starting points. -1 might be a little much for optimal street wear. 3/4 might be better.

Wes

 

I have H-sport springs, madness rear swaybar set to firmest (2 holes) and BMP tower strut with S-lites and runflats. The cornering is good (considering the runflats) but the ride is a bit bumpy esp over speed bumps. On smooth roads it is fine. Over anything bumpy you can feel it. When I switch to 17" Yokohama AVS ES100 and lighter rims I hope to have a less harsh ride. I aligned everything after all the parts were installed and set the front to factory specs and the rear camber to negative 0.75 degrees. It was initially -2 degrees and didn't ride or handle well. The alignment really helped smooth things out.

 

Thanks to everyone, your input is greatly appreciated.

Jim