Fog Shots...
Fog Shots...
Ok we all know that when ya pop the bonnet on a foggy night you get some awesome looking shots. With my top 4 I get 6 distinct beams... but I can't figure out how to get that to show up with a camera. What do I need to do? I got that panasonic FZ30 you guys told me was good, now what do I need to change to get some shots... yes I am using a tripod...
-Josh
-Josh
Tripod, with a long exposure, from far away would be my first try, never thought to go out and shoot in the fog
sound like it would be really cool. I treat photography like driving, the more I do>the more I learn>the more I like my photographs, the more I drive>the more I like.
sound like it would be really cool. I treat photography like driving, the more I do>the more I learn>the more I like my photographs, the more I drive>the more I like.Last edited by dave; Jan 15, 2006 at 09:28 AM.
If pictures are too dark you have an exposure lock point the camera at the beams set the shutter and aperture, the you can add the car and take your photo using those same settings. If pictures are to bright point closer to the lights set the exposure and frame the photo accordingly
Can we see what you got to begin with?
Here's what I think though since I've only tried photographing in fog during the day.
From what I've read about driving in fog, they recommend that high beams should not be on. Something about how all that light reacts with the "molecules." (refraction, blah, blah, blah, etc.)
From this I would assume you'd have to sacrifice one way or another. Either you expose for the light beams in the fog (which will make your MINI a silouhette) or expose for the car (in which case the fog will look to washed out).
I'm sure there's a happy medium out there.
Here's what I think though since I've only tried photographing in fog during the day.
From what I've read about driving in fog, they recommend that high beams should not be on. Something about how all that light reacts with the "molecules." (refraction, blah, blah, blah, etc.)
From this I would assume you'd have to sacrifice one way or another. Either you expose for the light beams in the fog (which will make your MINI a silouhette) or expose for the car (in which case the fog will look to washed out).
I'm sure there's a happy medium out there.
Light fog, slow shutter(amt. of time the sensor was exposed to light, low ISO=low noise(those specs you get when it dark). Something like this I thik the would have taken the light reading off of the trees, framed the picture and snap.
My first thought-ooh lots of MINIs, second wonder what it looks like from the air, third how many locals reported ufo landings that night.
neat photo- who gets credit?
My first thought-ooh lots of MINIs, second wonder what it looks like from the air, third how many locals reported ufo landings that night.
neat photo- who gets credit?
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Originally Posted by Battle Cattle
this is what I am looking for and how to take the pic...

-Josh
-Josh
My experience, with my camera that has many auto features, would tell me to avoid the auto-focus (if you can) because the fog (dust in my case) would ruin the shot.
I've been wanting to try fog with bonnet up!
I've been wanting to try fog with bonnet up!
Originally Posted by 89AKurt
My experience, with my camera that has many auto features, would tell me to avoid the auto-focus (if you can) because the fog (dust in my case) would ruin the shot.
4th Gear
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 393
Likes: 0
From: East Tennessee
Hey Josh, Check out the owners manual, for your camera, and see if it has "autobracketing." If it does, follow those instructions. The camera will take several shot consecutively (usually 3-5) at different exposure levels. That would be the easiest way. I'm not sure you could call that sample picture a "long exposure" since the people in the picture are relatively sharp.
CB
CB
Originally Posted by Wiggles
Hey Josh, Check out the owners manual, for your camera, and see if it has "autobracketing." If it does, follow those instructions. The camera will take several shot consecutively (usually 3-5) at different exposure levels. That would be the easiest way. I'm not sure you could call that sample picture a "long exposure" since the people in the picture are relatively sharp.
CB
CB
well first of all, the manual focus is one of the key features of the fz30... use it! I also think that too long of an exposure will wash out the car. maybe go full manual and close the f-stop all the way... then force a longer exposure than necessary. try messing with that a bit. Either way try a few things and post them so we can see what you're working with. I have the FZ5, which is basically the FZ30's little brother, so I may be able to look at the settings and give you some tweaks... either that or I'll play with the 30 on wed. or thursday night when I work at the camera store.
hope this isn't all greek to you.
hope this isn't all greek to you.
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,754
Likes: 36
From: Metro Detroit Area, Michigan
i think i took that photo. look in my gallery to see if it is. just use a tri-pod, and long shutter time with no flash. i am sure there is other things i could do to make it better, but i am not a pro at this, but learning some good points.
__________________
Originally Posted by chows4us
Its hard to tell but from the green light trail, it looks like someone had it on a tripod and set it manually to a timed exposure. Its the same thing you do to get fireworks shots. The only thing strange is that that the people look like they are not moving but it might be just a short duration ... a sec or two.
I have a 5 year old point and shoot Minolta Dimage F-100. I laid down in the road, steadied the camera on the road surface the best i could, and pressed the button!



Originally Posted by YuccaPatrol
I have a 5 year old point and shoot Minolta Dimage F-100. I laid down in the road, steadied the camera on the road surface the best i could, and pressed the button! 







Now I see the stripe on the road.
Originally Posted by 89AKurt
Cheapskate (like me) techniques, I love it!
Now I see the stripe on the road.
Now I see the stripe on the road.
In general, autoexposure will tend to overexpose shots like these. Remember that the camera meter is assuming an "average" scene and, when it sees something with lots of dark areas, it'll try to make them brighter. Yucca's camera did a decent job in this instance, maybe because the bright headlights balanced out the large dark areas. So, with a digital point and shoot, I'd try a shot, see how it looks, and probably end up (if the camera allows it) dialing in some negative exposure compensation.
With an DSLR, I'd probably spot meter off something of approximately medium brightness (18% gray) and use that, or spot meter off whatever you want to be the brightest area that still has detail and isn't blown out and open up about two stops. Again, with digital, you can chimp and adjust as needed. I'd probably also shoot with the camera set to lower contrast and bump it up later with curves and levels in Photoshop.
Mark
With an DSLR, I'd probably spot meter off something of approximately medium brightness (18% gray) and use that, or spot meter off whatever you want to be the brightest area that still has detail and isn't blown out and open up about two stops. Again, with digital, you can chimp and adjust as needed. I'd probably also shoot with the camera set to lower contrast and bump it up later with curves and levels in Photoshop.
Mark
Originally Posted by YuccaPatrol
Since I took this photo, I'll tell you my secret, but you're not going to be happy with me!
I have a 5 year old point and shoot Minolta Dimage F-100. I laid down in the road, steadied the camera on the road surface the best i could, and pressed the button!





Seriously, I am impressed. It looks like a timed exposure.
Originally Posted by chows4us
WOW

Seriously, I am impressed. It looks like a timed exposure.

Seriously, I am impressed. It looks like a timed exposure.
Sadly, the high quality version was lost when my laptop crashed.
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