JCW 2018 JCW sway bar coil over question
#26
I've done a bunch of track days since I got the car, so I can definitely provide feedback on the difference between stock and the upgraded bars in that sense.
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MikeMJCW (06-22-2018)
#27
It's an upgrade to both the front and rear, with the rear being a bigger upgrade in size from stock. Will still reduce understeer and inprove lift-off oversteer, but (hopefully) in a more balanced way overall.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-eibach-p...-57-004-01-11/
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-eibach-p...-57-004-01-11/
No fear of lift oversteer after deep braking!!
Much more neutral!!
Who's doing the front install??
I had the dealer do mine (2.0 labor hours) took the tech 3 hours!!
Also get some Moog front links, they are $14 a piece at Rock Auto.
Enjoy!!!
#28
#30
#31
The struts don't get removed.
As a matter of fact, the suspension stays on the car.
I watched the tech remove mine.
What comes down is the subframe with the steering rack and sway bar as one piece.
This will give you an idea.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...ort/1VnXqN5x23
As a matter of fact, the suspension stays on the car.
I watched the tech remove mine.
What comes down is the subframe with the steering rack and sway bar as one piece.
This will give you an idea.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...ort/1VnXqN5x23
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MikeMJCW (08-28-2018)
#33
#36
Also the instructions don't warn you about locking down the steering wheel FIRST.
You do not want the clock spring damaged.
I was a tech for 18 years with GM, and chose to not attempt this at home!!
If the dealer screwed up, it would be their dime. To me it was worth the $280!!
Godspeed to you!!
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...bar/1VnXqN5x23
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...bar/1VnXs1CmxS
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MikeMJCW (07-31-2018)
#37
#38
My dealer is in a "Bedroom community" its north, going away from Los Angeles.
They want the business, gave J_L here on NAM the same deal
The dealer going south into Los Angeles is so busy, they pretty much make up any price they want.
You might try the DIY approach, as coilers are not that hard to do.
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J_L (07-03-2018)
#39
Please be especially careful when lowering the subframe, DO NOT let the steering shaft on the steering rack hit the firewall going in and out. Its very delicate.
Also the instructions don't warn you about locking down the steering wheel FIRST.
You do not want the clock spring damaged.
I was a tech for 18 years with GM, and chose to not attempt this at home!!
If the dealer screwed up, it would be their dime. To me it was worth the $280!!
Godspeed to you!!
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...bar/1VnXqN5x23
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...bar/1VnXs1CmxS
Also the instructions don't warn you about locking down the steering wheel FIRST.
You do not want the clock spring damaged.
I was a tech for 18 years with GM, and chose to not attempt this at home!!
If the dealer screwed up, it would be their dime. To me it was worth the $280!!
Godspeed to you!!
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...bar/1VnXqN5x23
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...bar/1VnXs1CmxS
#41
#42
I was able to drive a stock f56s and one with the NM rear roll bar installed, back to back. It took two corners to "sell" me. Easily perceptible drop in body roll, Less understeer "crabbing" on part throttle as you roll on after an apex. Less rear wheel hop/snag/slip/grab. Amazing how much this one part improves handling... I was able to get on the gas earlier and harder and I could feel the back end "agreeing" to continue turning with me, allowing the front to steer where I wanted it to on throttle. I was kind of amazed how it almost felt like RWD!
#43
I was able to drive a stock f56s and one with the NM rear roll bar installed, back to back. It took two corners to "sell" me. Easily perceptible drop in body roll, Less understeer "crabbing" on part throttle as you roll on after an apex. Less rear wheel hop/snag/slip/grab. Amazing how much this one part improves handling... I was able to get on the gas earlier and harder and I could feel the back end "agreeing" to continue turning with me, allowing the front to steer where I wanted it to on throttle. I was kind of amazed how it almost felt like RWD!
Wait till you drive an F56 with an increased front AND rear sway bar!! Literally a go-kart.
#44
Front bars are available for both the R56 and F56, from Eibach
and H&R.
I have the H&Rs installed.
A bigger front bar along withh a bigger rear does NOT induce
understeer.
My F56 now turns flatter and better than just a rear bar.
Along withH&R springs. It’s the total package.
The rear bar theory was introduced due to the high cost of installing
the front.
I have a dealer here in SoCal that charges 2 labor hours.
and H&R.
I have the H&Rs installed.
A bigger front bar along withh a bigger rear does NOT induce
understeer.
My F56 now turns flatter and better than just a rear bar.
Along withH&R springs. It’s the total package.
The rear bar theory was introduced due to the high cost of installing
the front.
I have a dealer here in SoCal that charges 2 labor hours.
:-)
thanks
and on mine, I have the frame brace up front with stock roll bar there and it's lowered with NM springs and bilsteins... It's really fun, but it still isn't a "go-Kart." ;-). http://www.motoringfile.com/2017/06/...ctual-go-kart/
#45
Tell me your dealer who does that?
:-)
thanks
and on mine, I have the frame brace up front with stock roll bar there and it's lowered with NM springs and bilsteins... It's really fun, but it still isn't a "go-Kart." ;-). http://www.motoringfile.com/2017/06/...ctual-go-kart/
:-)
thanks
and on mine, I have the frame brace up front with stock roll bar there and it's lowered with NM springs and bilsteins... It's really fun, but it still isn't a "go-Kart." ;-). http://www.motoringfile.com/2017/06/...ctual-go-kart/
Mini of Valencia, see Jessica. Had mine done there, also "J_L" here on NAM.
#50