Clutch Job - what else "while I'm in there"
 

I've read that replacing the clutch on these minis is a pain and fairly labor intensive so I want to capitalize on replacing other labor heavy parts while I'm in there.

My car is a 2004 mini JCW. I would most certainly add a limited slip to this project but I believe I've read that some of the suspension bushings require dropping the subframe.

My car has 150k. Realistically I should sell it because the upkeep is costing a fortune but I just love this little car. I have a "what else could go wrong" mindset now due to how much maintenance has been done.

It's fairly stock besides a pulley someone did before I owned it, r56 Brembos, OZ wheels, and a completely redone audio system (horrible project but rewarding sound).

Drop some knowledge on me..

Thanks.

Replace crank sensor o-ring, waterpump, oil in supercharger, check vibration dampenner, check coolant hoses. Tighten power steering hoses. Check axles for looseness, front wheel bearings for any wobble and replace if there is any. install almost two quarts of MTL Redline synthetic in transaxle. Check oil cooler for any leaks and replace O-rings/gaskets as needed.

Don't sell it. After this it will be like a new car. This is what we do in our shop

Of course do the LSD when you pull the trans
https://www.waymotorworks.com/quaife...ferential.html

And new powerflex front control arm bushings since the subframe will be out
https://www.waymotorworks.com/powerf...shing-kit.html

Then the clutch stuff
guide tube
https://www.waymotorworks.com/throw-...-cooper-s.html

rear main seal
https://www.waymotorworks.com/rear-m...0-r52-r53.html

input shaft seal
https://www.waymotorworks.com/transm...-cooper-s.html

Thats a good link which pretty much everything I would look at while doing it.

Thanks for all the suggestions. I've been eyeing some GP2's online although I haven't driven one. Any comments about going from SC to turbo and also about the GP2 as a DD.

I daily drove a lowered z3 Mcoupe for a few years before I garaged it so I'm used to a little rougher of a ride although I've also read they actually ride that bad.

Welcome. Its a different animal and I would DD it in the summer then store it. Some people like to DD them but I would just keep it as a summer car. From a SC to a turbo.. two totally different animals. I would drive both as words cannot explain the more connected to the road feel of the Gen 1 vs the softer feel of the Gen 2. But the GP2 brings it back to feel more like a Gen 1 in my opinion, about the closest to a Gen 1 in road feel for those Gen 2 cars.

On that note I'm doing some pricing and I'm not sure which clutch kit is recommended. I don't have ambitions of making big HP but it's a fun car to mod so it would be nice to have enough clutch to handle the basics.

I have a z3 Mcoupe, a 1m, and an e30 (not M3) so I need to drive whatever I replaced this mini with if I decide to do so.

Valeo DM to SM conversion kit is best to moderate upgraded power and for the cost its a great deal. Its linked to that thread I replied to above.

Former e30 vert owner also here. If you live in a warm climate you could DD the GP2 daily. I would not drive it in the snow, that would be a Cooper with snowtires and steel wheels (manual of course). Its would be a blast to drive every day, but it would pull on my heartstrings as its pretty rare. It would look nice in your stable. I have 2 JCWs in mine right now and they are best friends. ;)

Also I drove a r56 JCW and was fairly uninspired by it. However I've driven some EPS cars that with some lights mods didn't feel so disconnected.

I like buying rare cars because they hold their value pretty well. The only one of mine I don't want to run miles on is the 1M. I'm a real estate agent so I drive about 28-30k miles a year so whatever I daily it's going to get some miles on it.

So my current cart has a clutch kit and all the other stuff that was recommended. I also added a limited slip, control arm bushings, KW V1's, and adjustable rear arms.

I'm pretty close to pulling the trigger. Anything else I'm missing that I should be considering.

Maybe change out the MTL Fluid while you are at it. Look at the sticker on the bottom of the transmission first, it should say MTF 94 or MTF-LT. Make sure you match to that fluid.

Post #74

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...n-fluid-3.html

I would inspect the power steering lines while you are down there also.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...placement.html

Also, make sure the PS fan on the bottom does not have dirt in between the blade and the motor housing itself and make sure it spins by hand freely.