JCW Rear Brake Pads - Changing DYI/FYI
Rear Brake Pads - Changing DYI/FYI
At 46,000 miles my days of free pads at the the dealership have expired. They had done my rears once and fronts twice. Pad replacement light came on.
I looked at putting a Duralast Max and Carquest Wearever Platinum which are supposedly decent pads. Both were supposed to be exact match, but did not fit the car. I was talking to a friend in racing industry and he ordered and gave me Ferodo pads which I use on my sport bikes as well and have been great.
Same issue came up on the rears as the other 2 brands in that they were not an exact fit. On inside rear I was able to grind off 1/8 of the pad metal etc. and they fit perfect. You can't complain about free.
The mini is extremely easy to get to. Remove the 2x bolts and use handle of wrench to remove the brakes. The frustrating part is the rear cylinders have to turn clockwise while they are pushed in. I used an 11mm wrench to open brake blead/drain. Then duck taped needled nose pliers in the correct position with a temporary handle to push and the cylinders moved easily.
After reinstalling brakes etc. Get someone to help you bleed the brakes and fill the reservoir etc.
If you don't have a new sensor and will monitor your pad wear, cut the wire to the old sensor. Strip the ends. Crimp together etc.
Get in car. Don't start, but turn on. Hold speedometer nub until you get to screen to reset brake light.
Go bed the brake pads and your done.
I looked at putting a Duralast Max and Carquest Wearever Platinum which are supposedly decent pads. Both were supposed to be exact match, but did not fit the car. I was talking to a friend in racing industry and he ordered and gave me Ferodo pads which I use on my sport bikes as well and have been great.
Same issue came up on the rears as the other 2 brands in that they were not an exact fit. On inside rear I was able to grind off 1/8 of the pad metal etc. and they fit perfect. You can't complain about free.
The mini is extremely easy to get to. Remove the 2x bolts and use handle of wrench to remove the brakes. The frustrating part is the rear cylinders have to turn clockwise while they are pushed in. I used an 11mm wrench to open brake blead/drain. Then duck taped needled nose pliers in the correct position with a temporary handle to push and the cylinders moved easily.
After reinstalling brakes etc. Get someone to help you bleed the brakes and fill the reservoir etc.
If you don't have a new sensor and will monitor your pad wear, cut the wire to the old sensor. Strip the ends. Crimp together etc.
Get in car. Don't start, but turn on. Hold speedometer nub until you get to screen to reset brake light.
Go bed the brake pads and your done.


