Interior/Exterior Sound proofing the MINI - Heres how I did it
#26
I ordered up B-quiet Ultimate and started on the task of doing the install tonight. So far I have removed the rear hatch plastic, the rear seats, the rear plastic below the windows, and the boot carpet. All of the exposed surfaces have at least a couple layers of B-Quiet Ultimate.
I'm hoping to get the time this weekend to remove the front seats, the carpet, the glovebox/euro parcel shelf, and the interior door plastic, to lay down some material in the forward passenger compartment.
I'm hoping to get the time this weekend to remove the front seats, the carpet, the glovebox/euro parcel shelf, and the interior door plastic, to lay down some material in the forward passenger compartment.
#28
Originally Posted by OldRick
Don't overlook the plastic "firewalls" under the intake cowls at the back of the engine compartment.
I'm considering removing my fender liners to cover the backside of the liners and then the exposed metal surfaces in the wheel wells. I'm not going to cover the "eyes" on the front fender liners because I don't want my sound insulation material to be visible when the bonnet is open.
#29
Lesson of the night: I learned the hard way the top of the '05/'06 dash is quite a bit different than the '02-'04.
In instructions that I found for removing the top of the dash (which were apparently for the '02-04, it said to remove the two screws on either side while the doors were open and basically lift it off. No problem. Well it turns out, not only does the '05/'06 dash also attach with two screws behind the driver's side of the 3 piece dash, it also attaches to 4 screws on the passenger side behind the 3 piece dash. Again, not really a problem.
The issue is that even once those are removed the dash doesn't really want to come out. I apparently applied a bit too much "finesse" and manage to get the leading edge of my dash dislodged. The only problem is the dash still isn't free and now won't seat back where it was. I have some ideas to rectify that situation, but it's going to have to wait until morning when I get more light.
The only real sound proofing progress tonight was covering the back of the euro parcel shelf and the back of the glovebox. I was hoping for more, but got a little sidetracked.
Tomorrow's another day though, and once the dash is seated back into black it's on to the doors and then on to trying to pull up the carpet.
In instructions that I found for removing the top of the dash (which were apparently for the '02-04, it said to remove the two screws on either side while the doors were open and basically lift it off. No problem. Well it turns out, not only does the '05/'06 dash also attach with two screws behind the driver's side of the 3 piece dash, it also attaches to 4 screws on the passenger side behind the 3 piece dash. Again, not really a problem.
The issue is that even once those are removed the dash doesn't really want to come out. I apparently applied a bit too much "finesse" and manage to get the leading edge of my dash dislodged. The only problem is the dash still isn't free and now won't seat back where it was. I have some ideas to rectify that situation, but it's going to have to wait until morning when I get more light.
The only real sound proofing progress tonight was covering the back of the euro parcel shelf and the back of the glovebox. I was hoping for more, but got a little sidetracked.
Tomorrow's another day though, and once the dash is seated back into black it's on to the doors and then on to trying to pull up the carpet.
#30
The later models also have screws in the top of the dash cover on either side of the defroster vents.
I’m doing a short shifter install tonight (if I can ever get the pivot ball retainer out) and will be applying Dynamat to the exhaust channel, heat shield, and shifter dust cover while the area is accessible.
I’m doing a short shifter install tonight (if I can ever get the pivot ball retainer out) and will be applying Dynamat to the exhaust channel, heat shield, and shifter dust cover while the area is accessible.
#31
Originally Posted by k-huevo
The later models also have screws in the top of the dash cover on either side of the defroster vents.
To recap, screws removed so far
- Two screws on either side of the dash that are exposed when the covers are removed with the doors open (total = 4)
- Two screws on the driver's side and four on the passenger side that are exposed when those two pieces of the three piece dash are removed. (total = 6)
- Two screws on either side of the top of the dash in the defrost vent channel (total = 4)
-------- I'll revist the above later, for now I'm moving on with the doors.
#32
Originally Posted by DiD
I'm considering removing my fender liners to cover the backside of the liners and then the exposed metal surfaces in the wheel wells. I'm not going to cover the "eyes" on the front fender liners because I don't want my sound insulation material to be visible when the bonnet is open.
There are a few plastic screws and a couple metal ones that need to be removed to get access to pull away the rearward part of the fender liner. I simply turned my wheels all the way to one side to access those areas with a short handle phillips screwdriver. Once the fasteners were out, I pulled the fenderliner forward, wiped down the backside to clean it up a bit (mine was pretty clean actually, even with all the rain we've had).
I then installed two layers of b-quiet ultimate on the back of my front fender liners from lowest section in the rear where the fender liner meets the rocker panel up to the area under the washer fill nozzle. I also did a double coating of all the exposed metal behind the fender liner.
In my test drive to the grocery store and back it seems to have knocked down the road roar. Based on those initial impressions, I believe this is definitely an area that deserves some attention to knock down the road noise.
I'd like to do the rears now, but I'm nearly out of material. I figure those are a little better off than the fronts though because I already partially coated the rear wheel well from the inside of the car.
#33
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