What if anything has anybody done to shave weight from the front of the car. I have now changed the wheels (6 lbs per corner) 24 lbs unsprung weight=96lbs sprung weight. Battery switched to Pc 680 11lbs and should get my quicksilver exhuast 20 lbs savings. However, it seems that the weight that needs to go is up front since the weight distribution is 61%/39%. I do want to do the carbon fiber hood but only saves approx 10 lbs for $800. I am looking for the least expensive stuff first all the while maintaining it as a regular 'looking' car.

 

This is probably a dumb question, but wouldn't making the front end light diminish the traction of the front wheels? Would it result in more spinning from a start instead of grabbing & going?

When I read your post it occured to me that lightening the weight over the wheels could have mixed results, I'll be curious what people say about it. I know that extra weight is bad for overall performance, but I have noticed that when I have a trunckload in the E46 the added grip it gives to the driving wheels feels good.

 

You've either done or plan to do the easy stuff. Other than the CF hood (which is $/lb saved) the next tier of weight savings can make the car less friendly as a daily driver, ie Remove back seat, replace front seats (and lose the air bag). Also, some of the aftermarket suspension bits will reduce some weight but not a lot.

As far a losing front end traction by taking weight off the front goes, as long as the engine is over the drive wheels you'll be fine.

 

This reminds me of shaving grams from a bicycle when Eddy Merckx was my hero. Lighter components cost more than their weight in gold (and that was when gold was fixed by the USA at a measly $35 per oz).

I haven't looked inside a MINI, but is it the inverse of a 911? When I had one of those I removed the AC and it saved 35 pounds from the back (that too was a long time ago--coincidentally my own golden age which, in retrospect, was probably only worth as much as that low fixed price for gold).

I admire you for trying. Reducing vehicle weight seems to follow in the tradition of Sir Alec.

 

Wheel spin would be more heavily affected by the lightening of the wheels and tires (rotational mass) and adding horsepower than by taking sprung pounds off the front end.

As far as how to save that weight, I dunno'. The CF hood from M7 is beautiful looking, and they make top quality stuff, but it is definitely out of my price range (for 16 lbs. at least). Removing the AC will probably save you 15 lbs. or so. If you have Xenon's, you could always remove the washer motors and tubing from under the hood (maybe 5 lbs.). Besides that you are looking at stripping the dash and sound-deadening from the interior, which would be a shame with our lavish cockpits. Remember also, that BMW engineered the MINI to have the best fr/rr weight ratio possible. From what I understand, in terms of handling, 50/50 weight balance is not ideal for a FWD car.

Oh, and check out this link from a couple year's back: http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/pr...scc_mini_hold/

(Be sure to post a review of the QS exhaust and any dyno numbers when you get it. I'm considering this exhaust as well.)

 

Shifting the weight distribution (percentage of weight on front vs. rear wheels) in a front-wheel-drive car to the rear is to expensive and the gains would be minimal.

With coil-overs, you can manipulate weight at each corner, but the physical mass of the engine/transaxle remains unmoved.

It would be more cost-effective to buy a rear wheel drive car, than to re-engineer a front-driver. Minis can be set up to handle very well, regardless of weight distribution. Addressing the springs, shocks and REAR SWAY BAR will pay big dividends.

Save your money on the CF hood, unless you want it just for bling.

 

If you lighten the front end you will lose a little bit of negative camber. That's what the front of the MINI really needs. If you have camber plates, never mind.

 

I'm at the same point as you. I'm just trying to lighten the car without completely stripping it. The gains from losing weigh are amazing...especially on an MC because it starts out ligher.

But i have struck the same dilemma...i have taken a lot of weight off the rear (seats 38, spare tire 30) and i have gotten some 13 lb wheels weight to go on after winter. But the distribution is thrown off. It can be cured by suspension, but i would mind losing weight up front. Since i have an MC... the battery is up front, so that should help. And im putting in some lightweight sparcos which is close to the front bunt not quite. There's not a lot that can be done it seems, without totally reconfiguring the car i guess. I have debated moving the battery to the rear like the MCS...that should even me out a bit, but its a lot of work.

 

What? Gold $35/oz? When was this?

Doug

 

Who in the world makes 13lb rims?

Doug

 

Racing Hart, Volk (and other Ray's), OZ, SSR, and more. You can get these in 8 lbs.: http://www.wheelspecs.com/specs/wheelmodels/377

 

Velox PG-REV 10 are 11 pounds in 17" guise.

They're also $480 a corner and butt ugly (imho)

 

yeah in a 15....

I just started selling wheels that are 18 x 10.5 that are 8 lbs...they are going to be making some for me at some point in an 18 X 7.5 and they are completely custom in that you get to choose what the center spindel area looks like

they are made of CF and Magnesium...yes thay are expensive but I am sorry I am not going to sacrifice looks and performance for one or the other...anywho....if anyone is interested lemme know

here are some pics...these again are customizable to your liking when it comes to the magnesium center...as long as your idea is structualy sound...

The wheels are full D.O.T. and are rated @ 5000Lbs. each. These wheels have proven to be twice as strong as the Z06 wheels and impact rating exceeded the testing capability of the testing lab. The lab recieved 100 wheels of which ZERO failed any of the test. also 100 Z06 wheels were sent to have the same test ran they had a 63% failure rating. The testing of the carbon wheels went beyond all of the DOT testing for a alloy wheel.... alloy wheels are required to pass 2.5 million cycles, These wheels were required to pass 5 million cycles due to the new technology.

 

8lbs !!!!!!!!!!!!!! I WANT THOSE. Now are they gonna cost more than the car itself? I would really like those Saving 8Lbs per corner =32 which mutiplied by 4 =128 lbs thats good. Price please when you get a chance

 

When, how much:smile:

 

I have a meeting very soon....when I know more I'll let you guys know...figure around 1200-1500....A WHEEL... however when you consider that it's an 18 x 7.5 and is 8 lbs...thats awsome...and it is cutsom to your liking other than the carbon tube or barrel...the performance gains with acceleration, handling, and braking are going to be outstanding!!! I can't wait

Like I said I'll post more when I have definitive answers

 

This is bringing up a topic I was wondering about -- can you theoretically remove enough weight from the back of the car that the weight imbalance offsets the benefits of weight reduction?

It appears from one of the threads that within the realm of what is physically possible with these cars that the answer is no. That shifting a higher percentage of the weight to the front can be offset by sensible suspension set up. Is that right?

Wait, there's a light weight batter? Really?

Hunter

 

Will they be making 16in wheels?? How much would those weigh?? 4lbs?



Definitely interesting technology! Would love to see it come down in price in a few years. Though for now i'll stick to my 13lb Rota Slipstreams

 

YES!!! the Helix rally is the best i've seen so far. on the top of the list of things to do to my (dad's) MCS when it comes is a hellix rally battery (like 12 lbs) and the smart little exhaust mod that involves shaving off about 20 pounds (and a mufler)

-Paul

p.s. I have to live with the 17" S-"heavys"

 

I don't understand at all. For a wheel, the unsprung weight has to do with the suspension response. Something called the "moment of inertia" (think of it as rotational mass) is used to calculate the amount of energy stored in the rotational kinetic energy. this energy, along with the kinetic energy associated with the speed of the car, which is proportional to the mass of the wheel, not it's moment, is what you counsider in 0-60 times, etc.

The moment is calcated in a bit of a messy way, but what it comes down to is it depends heavliy on the geometry. For a wheel like this, where the mass is removed from the rim, it REALLY LOWERS the moment of inertia, and will have a much bigger effect in 0-60 times than even th effect on suspension response.

And I have no clue what that factor of four is, or where it comes from.

Real bitchen wheels! I just fear what they cost.....

Matt

 

each stock wheel is...like 40 llbs or something...I think he was talking about the weight savings....also in order to turn the mass you loose alot of time...therefore have 8 lbs of rotational mass insted of 40 would be better...not only for acceleration but for stoping and turning...no?


is that what you were not getting about the factor of four or am I still drunk from saint pattys...LOL

 

Definitely let us know. Are they only doing 18" rims or will they make different sizes? I am assuming from the photo there would be no problem with any BBKs. I would be really interested in a set of those!

 

The "rear" of the MCS is just behind the front doors, according to Randy Webb. So, anything forward of that could be termed the "front."

Lighter front seats could net as much as a 40 pound savings over stock...

A lightened flywheel could save another 15 or so pounds...

A lightened crank pully (stock size or larger) can shed about 5-7 lbs...

A front BBK (WW) can knock-off around 12 pounds...

Front sway bar replacement (H-Sport), 3 pounds...

Front control arm replacement (M7), 8 lbs...

A couple or so pounds could be lost by replacing the stock intake plumbing...

A/C compressor, condenser & lines = 23 pounds, per GRM

Nearly 90 pounds can be removed from the front while still retaining the A/C. There are other small items that can be sacrificed to reach 100...

Since my MCS will be exclusively a Fall/Winter ride someday, I might ditch the A/C. I'm currently at -162 pounds now, and I still have much of the front to address:

seats, crank pulley, flywheel, sway bar & controll arms. This wil get my MCS down 230+ pounds, and near 260 minus the A/C. Pretty amazing considering that it will not look like a stripped-out, or gutted ride.

I don't menttion wheels, tires, shocks, as they are at all 4 corners, so not purely the front. With that said, my 16's at 10.75 lbs made a world of difference . And my front coilovers saved me about 3 pounds each, while the rears were like .2 lbs lighter only...

I'll believe 8 lb 18" wheels when I see them . But if price is no limit, I'm sure such a figure is attainable...

 

Do you have an itemized list of all the lightening-mods you've done (deleted) as well as your proposed ones? I'd love to shave 230 lbs. off my car without it compromising the comfort too much.

 

I have a fairly comprehensive Word doc which is essentially the evolution of my MCS. I have a couple of items on there for future mods where the products are not yet public, but in the pipeline. If you PM your email address, I'll be happy to scrub the doc of those items, and send it to you. No problem...