Hello,

I've recently acquired a R53 spoiler, because my spoiler-less R50 was bugging me and that's pretty much the only spoiler I found locally.
I need to replace the tape (since it's obviously not sticky anymore, and half of it is missing anyway). I found the part number, 51717077794, but unfortunately it's not made anymore, and seem to be unobtainium.

What sort of tape should I use?
I measured the one on the spoiler to be around 2mm thickness.
On Amazon, I can find 3M VHB 5952, but it's only 1.1mm thickness. So far it's my best bet though ... Unless I find another BMW/Mini factory tape for another spoiler that's about the same size/shape and cut it to shape.
When googling for what to use, I found some thread advising 3M 6389, of which I'm not sure of the thickness, plus the only place selling it only sells an ungodly amount of it for 100 bucks, which is way too expensive for me.

I'm open to any other recommendation.

 

In addition to being taped, the R53 spoilers were also bolted to the hatch. The accessory JCW spoiler did not have mechanical fasteners and was glued to hatch. If you’re not planning on drilling holes in your R50 hatch to bolt it down, I would make sure the tape is strong enough and that there is enough surface area to hold it securely so the spoiler doesn’t fly off, or glue it with something equivalent to the glue supplied with the JCW spoiler. I think the optional R50 spoiler was able to use tape only because the contact area was the entire perimeter of the spoiler and there was less force on it since the air traveled over the spoiler instead of through it like the R53.

As for sourcing the appropriate tape or glue in smaller amounts, maybe a friendly local body shop would be willing sell or give you some.

 

I do intend to drill holes, especially as the fixings on the spoiler are not removable. Anyway I'd rather have both mechanical and strong adhesive attachment, especially as the adhesive seems to double as a gasket for water.
I've seen R50 spoilers, and they also come with studs.

There's unfortunately no friendly local body shop, since I do everything myself I don't know any shop owners, and don't live in an area where people are friendly either ...
I visited a hardware store, but even the strongest tapes they had didn't seem that good and I'd rather have a very strong bond.

 

I've not had or removed an R53 rear spoiler but from ones that I've seen have a mounting stud/fastener (permanently?) secured at each end.
I would imagine, with careful measuring,; if you were to drill holes in your top hatch to accept these studs secured by a washer and nut underneath; I personally feel it would be sufficiently secure.
However, I agree with you - the addition of VHB double sided tape would not only provide added adhesion, cushion and water deterrent.
I think bolting/mechanical fastening would be the optimum. These STOCK spoilers don't provide much (aerodynamic) down force to begin with.

Just my opinion.

 

Thanks for the input! Yes it does have studs (as does a R50 spoiler, same exact location), and I do indeed prefer to have both mechanical fastening and adhesive bonding.
And yeah it's purely cosmetic, I don't expect any performance change. If anything, I expect slightly worse fuel mileage.

 

Understandably - This may or may not answer or apply to your requirements.

About a little more than a year ago - I had fabricated a rear lower duckbill spoiler for my R53. I had incorporated 2wo small tabs that were discretely and mechanically attached under rear window trim with "pan fram" screws.
As for the remaining contact points to the conforming hatch; I used cut into and "strategically" placed along the spoiler's contact surface.


A couple of mechanical fastening tabs secured in place by pan-fram screws underneath the rear window trim/beltline...


pictured above: black rectangles to indicate placement of VHB 5952 tape. Some pieces where doubled up/stacked to insure good surface to surface contact where I felt the
spoiler's surface might have a "low spot"....I knew from experience that the tape would provide and exceptional bond -
So I decided not to go nuts with the tape knowing that I may want to remove the duckbill someday without the struggles, eg: like OEM or at the risk of damage to the car.
BTW: the small holes along the spoiler's mating surface were drilled to allow venting after being injected with 2component (A/B) 2lb density expandable polyurethane foam.



This year, I decided to remove the duckbill for a fresh repaint and clear. Although, even after removing to 2wo mechanical securing screws; I had a heck of a time (@35-45lbs upward force) releasing the spoiler
from the car at the VHB attachment points.

Point is: I think you'll be just fine with bolts and VHB (3M #5952).

 

Thanks a lot for the feedback! Super interesting point on doubling the tape for additional thickness. I wasn't actually sure it would work, but I'll take your word for it!
That address my main issue of insufficient thickness, by doubling it up (if necessary) it'll be the perfect thickness.

Also I do happen to have some 3M VHB 5952 leftover from when I dechromed my Mini and had to reattach one of the front chrome that's only held by tape (this one is less of a worry because it doesn't catch air and is super light)