Interior/Exterior Interior Leather Upgrades (from RedlineGoods)
Interior Leather Upgrades (from RedlineGoods)
..finally got around to installing my leather items from Redlinegoods.com.
Door armrest/pulls in black leather w/ gray stripe. Colorline from standard gray line to black leather.
Overall, I think it makes the interior look 110% better! I didn't think to take before photos (but you all know what a stock interior looks like). Check out the after!
Door armrest/pulls in black leather w/ gray stripe. Colorline from standard gray line to black leather.
Overall, I think it makes the interior look 110% better! I didn't think to take before photos (but you all know what a stock interior looks like). Check out the after!
The total install was pretty easy and not nearly as difficult as I thought it was going to be. In fact, I had the leather sitting in my garage for a few months before I got the courage to tackle this project as i was fearing a much more difficult install.
My biggest worry, hesitation w/ working on anything that requires removing plastic pieces is the fear of breaking or weakening plastic fasteners and clips that hold things together.
Hence my apprehension in starting this project. There was only 1 piece in the install that didn't go back *exactly* as it came off, the key/start trim ring (explained below). Otherwise I felt none of the snaps and clips were weakened in the removal and putting back together.
The armrest/pulls were extremely easy. They just pull off. After having them off I could see that there was no real danger in breaking any of the plastic clips.
For the colorline, it was all pretty straight forward. I followed the directions (as provided on the RedlineGoods.com website -great instructions, ...foget the horrible instructions someone posted here on NAM for replacing our chrome interior trim).
The entire colorline process took me 3 hours from start to finish, ...that includes the application of the leather ontop of my stock colorline (and waiting for the glue to set). The actuall removal and replacing of colorline and dash trim was probably about an hour or two. But very straight forward, nothing too difficult.
The only thing I don't care for:
Adding the leather ontop of the stock colorline gives the colorline about 1/8th inch of extra thickness. This is actually good as it fills in any tiny gaps between the colorline and other dash trim that was present w/ the stock setup. ...makes everything looks snug. Yet where the key/start button is, the extra padding makes it so the start trim ring will not sit as flush as it previously was when stock. You can not notice a thing visually, yet I notice that my keyfob stickes ever so slightly going in and out. Not a big deal, something I can live w/ but may work on more and see if I can make more acceptable? I did trim all the leather around that area as specified in teh directions, yet the extra leather padding does not allow the start trim ring to sit as flush as when stock. Not a biggy though.
I would do this all again, I love the look and wish it were offered as an option by MINI.
My biggest worry, hesitation w/ working on anything that requires removing plastic pieces is the fear of breaking or weakening plastic fasteners and clips that hold things together.
Hence my apprehension in starting this project. There was only 1 piece in the install that didn't go back *exactly* as it came off, the key/start trim ring (explained below). Otherwise I felt none of the snaps and clips were weakened in the removal and putting back together.
The armrest/pulls were extremely easy. They just pull off. After having them off I could see that there was no real danger in breaking any of the plastic clips.
For the colorline, it was all pretty straight forward. I followed the directions (as provided on the RedlineGoods.com website -great instructions, ...foget the horrible instructions someone posted here on NAM for replacing our chrome interior trim).
The entire colorline process took me 3 hours from start to finish, ...that includes the application of the leather ontop of my stock colorline (and waiting for the glue to set). The actuall removal and replacing of colorline and dash trim was probably about an hour or two. But very straight forward, nothing too difficult.
The only thing I don't care for:
Adding the leather ontop of the stock colorline gives the colorline about 1/8th inch of extra thickness. This is actually good as it fills in any tiny gaps between the colorline and other dash trim that was present w/ the stock setup. ...makes everything looks snug. Yet where the key/start button is, the extra padding makes it so the start trim ring will not sit as flush as it previously was when stock. You can not notice a thing visually, yet I notice that my keyfob stickes ever so slightly going in and out. Not a big deal, something I can live w/ but may work on more and see if I can make more acceptable? I did trim all the leather around that area as specified in teh directions, yet the extra leather padding does not allow the start trim ring to sit as flush as when stock. Not a biggy though.
I would do this all again, I love the look and wish it were offered as an option by MINI.
Last edited by eR1c; Aug 12, 2012 at 10:21 AM.
Based on your comment about the added thickness affecting the push button start/key insert I'll likely trim the vinyl from that area with an X-acto knife prior to gluing down the material.
I totally agree that MINI should offer colorline options such as leather and alcantara.
Last edited by Blackcoffee; Aug 12, 2012 at 12:13 PM.
Looks real sharp. I thought about doing this a few times with the center arm rest and the door pulls. Maybe one day.
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That would be great! I bought some alcantara and plan to do the colorline, armrests, door panels and inserts and possibly the seat backs. The only thing I find intimidating is taking the dash apart. Or should I say reassembly?
Based on your comment about the added thickness affecting the push button start/key insert I'll likely trim the vinyl from that area with an X-acto knife prior to gluing down the material.
I totally agree that MINI should offer colorline options such as leather and alcantara.
Based on your comment about the added thickness affecting the push button start/key insert I'll likely trim the vinyl from that area with an X-acto knife prior to gluing down the material.
I totally agree that MINI should offer colorline options such as leather and alcantara.
As long as you follow the directions for removing the various dash parts the removal is easy and straight forward.
I think that trimming a little bit of the vinyl around the key start trim ring is a great idea.
the issue iam having is that the trim ring acts as a guide for the key to go in and out of the electronic starter mechanism. Because of the extra leather it makes it so my start ring sits about 5mm higherthan it should and the key catches slightly. I am not sure at this point how i would fix this as the leather is already glued in place. Everything is really snug though and the start ring is snapped in place. Thepush button area for our glove box is another story. There seems to be more tolerance there for the extra padding from the leather.
Really though this isnt that bad of an install. It was easier than many of the mods ive done.
I think the start ring area would be the only advice i could give. Otherwise let me know if there is anything specific anyone has a question about.
I think that trimming a little bit of the vinyl around the key start trim ring is a great idea.
the issue iam having is that the trim ring acts as a guide for the key to go in and out of the electronic starter mechanism. Because of the extra leather it makes it so my start ring sits about 5mm higherthan it should and the key catches slightly. I am not sure at this point how i would fix this as the leather is already glued in place. Everything is really snug though and the start ring is snapped in place. Thepush button area for our glove box is another story. There seems to be more tolerance there for the extra padding from the leather.
Really though this isnt that bad of an install. It was easier than many of the mods ive done.
I think the start ring area would be the only advice i could give. Otherwise let me know if there is anything specific anyone has a question about.
eR1c,
Have you contacted redline about your concerns, if so what did they have to say about that? I've been searching other threads about Redline interior and haven't heard anyone else mention this issue with the key
Have you contacted redline about your concerns, if so what did they have to say about that? I've been searching other threads about Redline interior and haven't heard anyone else mention this issue with the key
Absoluteczech,
No I have not. I think that their product is great in every respect and not sure what they could do different in this area. This is more of a word of warning to those who do the install. The key/start ring is an area that will take more attention. The instructions (written by a member on NAM and uploaded to RedlineGoods didn't really elaborate on the key ring area like I have been). They are very good instructions though. They obviously didn't have the same issue I did? -so maybe it was user error on my part?!! I just couldn't get the ring to sit completely flush. doh!!
I think that it may be possible to get this area 100% correct if you also trim a little more of the RedlineGoods leather as well. I didn't not trim it all the way to the edge where the trim ring goes ontop as I didn't want the trimmed area to show through ...there has to be a bit of overlap (if you can visualize what I am trying to convey). This was the trickiest part of the entire install, and there is very little margin for error. I think I said that my ring sits about 5mm higher than it should, in realty it is probably only about 3mm, yet it is just enough to catch my keyfob. Taking everything apart at this point isn't an option (because it is glued in place). I was thiking of using my dremel and just edging the lip of the inside of trim ring ever so slightly to take away the hard edge that is catching my key. You wouldn't see anything still as it would be on the inside of the ring area.
Last, I should mention that the key ring has very delicate clips ...so you really won't be able to test fit the ring and take it off too many times before you risk breaking the clips. Once you break the clips I imaging that the ring would not snap back correctly. Once you take everything apart you'll notice what I mean about test fitting it. there is no way to actually truely test the ring placement w/o snapping it back into place completely. If you keep taking the ring on and off I think you will ruin the delicate plastic clips on each end. -plus I really didn't even think to put the key inside until after I had it all back in place.
I ve attached a quick sketch I did. Here you can see the small edge I am taking about that is catching my keyfob slightly. I may dremel it down to take away the hard edge of the trim ring. The trim ring and the starter mechanism should sit 100% flush. ...mine is off ever so slightly.
No I have not. I think that their product is great in every respect and not sure what they could do different in this area. This is more of a word of warning to those who do the install. The key/start ring is an area that will take more attention. The instructions (written by a member on NAM and uploaded to RedlineGoods didn't really elaborate on the key ring area like I have been). They are very good instructions though. They obviously didn't have the same issue I did? -so maybe it was user error on my part?!! I just couldn't get the ring to sit completely flush. doh!!
I think that it may be possible to get this area 100% correct if you also trim a little more of the RedlineGoods leather as well. I didn't not trim it all the way to the edge where the trim ring goes ontop as I didn't want the trimmed area to show through ...there has to be a bit of overlap (if you can visualize what I am trying to convey). This was the trickiest part of the entire install, and there is very little margin for error. I think I said that my ring sits about 5mm higher than it should, in realty it is probably only about 3mm, yet it is just enough to catch my keyfob. Taking everything apart at this point isn't an option (because it is glued in place). I was thiking of using my dremel and just edging the lip of the inside of trim ring ever so slightly to take away the hard edge that is catching my key. You wouldn't see anything still as it would be on the inside of the ring area.
Last, I should mention that the key ring has very delicate clips ...so you really won't be able to test fit the ring and take it off too many times before you risk breaking the clips. Once you break the clips I imaging that the ring would not snap back correctly. Once you take everything apart you'll notice what I mean about test fitting it. there is no way to actually truely test the ring placement w/o snapping it back into place completely. If you keep taking the ring on and off I think you will ruin the delicate plastic clips on each end. -plus I really didn't even think to put the key inside until after I had it all back in place.
I ve attached a quick sketch I did. Here you can see the small edge I am taking about that is catching my keyfob slightly. I may dremel it down to take away the hard edge of the trim ring. The trim ring and the starter mechanism should sit 100% flush. ...mine is off ever so slightly.
I wasn't really aware that this could be an issue area, so wasn't really sure what to anticipate ...doing this again, I would take extra caution/care in this area and could probably get it right. I am sure others have and thus it probably isn't a RedlinesGood error? I think it is all about trimming everything just right. I did the glove box first which may have given me too much confidence, as that area went so easily.
Last edited by eR1c; Aug 13, 2012 at 03:54 PM.
Update,
I just went out to my car tried the keyfob and it slid in and out easily. ...so maybe this isn't as big of a deal as I've made it out to be, Or maybe the edge between the trim ring and mechanism has gone done a mm or two and thus stopped my keyfob from catching slightly.?
in either case, I think I have made this into way more of a deal than it probably is. I am a bit OCD.
I just went out to my car tried the keyfob and it slid in and out easily. ...so maybe this isn't as big of a deal as I've made it out to be, Or maybe the edge between the trim ring and mechanism has gone done a mm or two and thus stopped my keyfob from catching slightly.?
in either case, I think I have made this into way more of a deal than it probably is. I am a bit OCD.
Update,
I just went out to my car tried the keyfob and it slid in and out easily. ...so maybe this isn't as big of a deal as I've made it out to be, Or maybe the edge between the trim ring and mechanism has gone done a mm or two and thus stopped my keyfob from catching slightly.?
in either case, I think I have made this into way more of a deal than it probably is. I am a bit OCD.
I just went out to my car tried the keyfob and it slid in and out easily. ...so maybe this isn't as big of a deal as I've made it out to be, Or maybe the edge between the trim ring and mechanism has gone done a mm or two and thus stopped my keyfob from catching slightly.?
in either case, I think I have made this into way more of a deal than it probably is. I am a bit OCD.

I'm the writer of the installation instructions for redlinegoods, and you're correct - I didn't have quite the same experience as you. That might be because I broke tabs on the key slot surround while I was trying to figure out how to do the install, though.
My key slot doesn't stick when removing the key, but initially after adding the colorline wrap I think it was a little less forgiving when inserting the key - it had to go in pretty close to straight down the middle. It's resolved itself over time though, so maybe the pressure of the key has compressed the leather.For future installers to avoid this I wonder if, before gluing the leather in place, it would help to "shave" the back of the leather around the opening so that it's not quite as thick. I had to do that for the shift boot install, since the leather was much thicker than the stock boot.
Hello Kirby11, you wrote the instructions!!! -Great job! I love the choice of white leather on your colorline ...and the union jack door pulls are a nice touch.
I followed your instructions carefully, everything you wrote/mentioned was spot on. Actually seeing your after photos on the Redline site is what got me to purchase the colorline leather pieces...i was only going to do my door arm rest/pulls.
So you had a similar experience, yet not quite as severe, that makes me feel a bit better ...this is probably a common thing due to the extra leather in that area. I did not break my tabs but man, they are delicate and I was worried about breaking them.
My key works fine now, ...it has been about 2 weeks since my install and it was over 100 degrees for most of that time. Wondering if the heat and time let the leather rest and compress a little?
I think that either shaving the back of the leather as you mentioned OR shaving a bit of the vinyl material on the colorline piece would help tremendously and probably solve this issue.
I think that the Redlinegoods products are top quality and love the way they've improved my interior so much that now I am thinking of the shift book and break handle boot. ...gosh, i'd just love to wrap the entire interior w/ their products
(funny, my Porsche is completely 100% leather on the interior. Even the little button for the side view mirrors has a tiny leather cover over it -that is how it came stock. They literally wrapped the entire interior in leather, every little bit ...it is a bit OCD but super nice).
I followed your instructions carefully, everything you wrote/mentioned was spot on. Actually seeing your after photos on the Redline site is what got me to purchase the colorline leather pieces...i was only going to do my door arm rest/pulls.
So you had a similar experience, yet not quite as severe, that makes me feel a bit better ...this is probably a common thing due to the extra leather in that area. I did not break my tabs but man, they are delicate and I was worried about breaking them.
My key works fine now, ...it has been about 2 weeks since my install and it was over 100 degrees for most of that time. Wondering if the heat and time let the leather rest and compress a little?
I think that either shaving the back of the leather as you mentioned OR shaving a bit of the vinyl material on the colorline piece would help tremendously and probably solve this issue.
I think that the Redlinegoods products are top quality and love the way they've improved my interior so much that now I am thinking of the shift book and break handle boot. ...gosh, i'd just love to wrap the entire interior w/ their products

(funny, my Porsche is completely 100% leather on the interior. Even the little button for the side view mirrors has a tiny leather cover over it -that is how it came stock. They literally wrapped the entire interior in leather, every little bit ...it is a bit OCD but super nice).
All,
After reading this thread I'm inspired to add some leather to my Clubman as I have been wanted to do this since I got my car. I felt that adding the leather to the arm rest, colorline and the dash would complete the interior nicely.
What an awesome job you guys did... now, I have the confidence to follow. Just have to go to the color and material selection process.
Thanks again.
After reading this thread I'm inspired to add some leather to my Clubman as I have been wanted to do this since I got my car. I felt that adding the leather to the arm rest, colorline and the dash would complete the interior nicely.
What an awesome job you guys did... now, I have the confidence to follow. Just have to go to the color and material selection process.
Thanks again.
good luck w/ your install Dozuki01! -it think it makes a world of difference to the interior of our cars.
also, look around for coupons when you purchase at RLGoods. I believe I had found a 20% off coupon, ...or maybe a 10%, ..either way coupons exist for their site.
i plan on purchasing more from them in the near future.
also, look around for coupons when you purchase at RLGoods. I believe I had found a 20% off coupon, ...or maybe a 10%, ..either way coupons exist for their site.
i plan on purchasing more from them in the near future.
Thanks for the tip on the coupon... I'm curious if we can request for sample patches to confirm material and color.
My interior has the OEM dark gray on the color line, arm rest and seat. I'm thinking of going with Medium Gray, Sierra or camel but not sure what theme I should stick with.
One thing I noticed on the instructions and photos for the colorline the leather did not laydown flat. It seems there are bulge and bubble. Are there any technique to smooth out or flat out the leather.
Did Redline provide the glue?
My interior has the OEM dark gray on the color line, arm rest and seat. I'm thinking of going with Medium Gray, Sierra or camel but not sure what theme I should stick with.
One thing I noticed on the instructions and photos for the colorline the leather did not laydown flat. It seems there are bulge and bubble. Are there any technique to smooth out or flat out the leather.
Did Redline provide the glue?
so far the only thing we could get done were the headrests.
tried for three hours lying in wet driveway to get 3 clip apart under center console no luck, did you do the boot shifter?
any suggestions?took three adults to stretch them over.
I did not do the shift boot or headrests,
Just the colorline and door armrest/pulls (so can only give comments on those)
getting the leather flat,
I sprayed both the inside of the leather and the surface that the leather was being applied to, then used my hands and w/ some force pulled and smoothed out the leather ...all the bubbles and bulges were smoothed out as I did this and as the glue dried.
No, the leather does not come w/ glue. I used "3M super adhesive spray" in the green spray can. -the super strong stuff. I used this to spray the inside of the leather and the part of the car that the leather was to be applied to. Then I used a vinyl/fabric glue (from a tube) to glue the edges, -i used clamps and clothes pins to hold in place until the edges set. (the glue types are specified in the instructions, written by Kirby on this thread).
Just the colorline and door armrest/pulls (so can only give comments on those)
getting the leather flat,
I sprayed both the inside of the leather and the surface that the leather was being applied to, then used my hands and w/ some force pulled and smoothed out the leather ...all the bubbles and bulges were smoothed out as I did this and as the glue dried.
No, the leather does not come w/ glue. I used "3M super adhesive spray" in the green spray can. -the super strong stuff. I used this to spray the inside of the leather and the part of the car that the leather was to be applied to. Then I used a vinyl/fabric glue (from a tube) to glue the edges, -i used clamps and clothes pins to hold in place until the edges set. (the glue types are specified in the instructions, written by Kirby on this thread).




