Does anyone have any good tips for spray painting the interior trim with body color paint? I have a can of Chili Red from Way Motor Works. Last night, I tried painting some trim flat black and some chili red. (I intend to do most of the silver trim rings flat black, with just a couple of red accents.) The flat black came out perfect! The chili red looks good, but it's a little tacky feeling and will scratch off easily. I have come to a few conclusions:

1) I may need to let it dry longer.
2) Maybe I put on too many coats without enough drying time in between.
3) I may need a primer and/or clear coat on top.

Any ideas? Does anyone have any experience with this?

 

You need to let it dry longer if it is tacky.

 

If you can scuff them up a little with something like a scotchbrite pad...they also have a primer designed chrome /plastic that promotes it sticking... shoot it with several coats and then hit it with a clear coat or two and it should be good... I found an automotive paint supplier and got the color matched paint, primer, and clear coat so I can do a little chrome removal on mine

 

Don't do it!!!! I mean unless you want the interior of your MINI to look like a highschool ricer.

 

I agree with the flat black look but the door ovals and/or dash in Chili Red looks pretty darn good, IMO.

 

So what exactly looks like a highschool ricer? The whole idea, just part of it? (I'm sincerely asking. I'm not offended.)

So you know where I'm coming from here.... I was just trying to get rid of a little of the "bling" on the interior, and darken it up a bit. The silver rings are a little busy in my opinion, and look a little cheap. The only ones I plan on doing in red are the one at the base of the shifter, and maybe the one on the steering wheel (if I can get it off)--you know, highlight the most important parts. Basically, the flat black ones will look like the ring around the tach (why is that the only black one?).

 

You sure you want to use a flat black ? I think a satin finish would look better.

 

I've done a little body work over the years and was an assistant instructor for auto painting for a while. I've done most of the body work and painting on my 79 since I bought it in 04.

The one secret to your painting is to follow the application instructions of the particular product closely. I do not see any supplemental instructions for application provided on WAY’s site so hopefully there are good instructions on the can. Since I doubt WAY has made paint you might check the can for the actual company and check THEIR web site for additional detailed instructions. Especially important is surface prep and dry time between coats.


Some general automotive painting hints:


You do not typically need primer unless you are painting a raw surface like uncoated metal or plastic. Usually an existing painted surface provides a good base for new paint. New paint does not stick well to a glossy surface. An existing painted surface needs to be ‘scuffed’ or sanded to allow the new paint a place to bite. ALL GLOSS should be removed for new paint to stick. {Your flat paint very well may have been a primer and that’s why it is sticking better}

If in sanding you break thru to raw material you can spot apply primer. Specific product data sheets provide details but if in doubt I usually am sanding with 200 or 400. (if it is easier to prime everything there's no harm you just build up thickness and add material cost. This is often done on purpose, using the primer to fill scratches - even sanding scratches)


WAY’s paint is a single stage paint and should not require a clear top coat. If you want to apply clear for strength, check the application guides of BOTH products. Usually you need the one stage color to be completely dry (off gassed) b4 adding clear . And since the clear is being applied over existing paint the scuffing rule applies. (note the rules are DIFFERENT when applying clear over "base" of two stage process)


I’ve used these guys for rattle can quantities of automotive color for years (incl MINI). Their paint is true modern automotive two stage paint: a base color to be topped with clear. Their web site has full instructions. http://www.automotivetouchup.com/

 

Something I ran across recently that some reading this thread might find of interest: Eastwood Co has a satin silver interior plastic paint that looks like a pretty good match for the satin silver parts in my first gen interior. It's part # 13701Z. I'm going to pick some up and redo the door handle / armrest deal in my pre-facelift, which is looking pretty shabby around where you grab to pull the door shut from inside. I'm obviously more interested in rejuvenating the stock look, than changing things up, but I think it's relevant.

As far as technique, I have no advice to offer.

 

Everytime I have seen someone paint their interior it has come out looking like a hot mess. It just didn't work.

here is an example of ricer

 

Rattle cans do have their uses....
my suggestion is NOT to use them on the inside.
paint that is meant to survive /stick/flex with plastic usually has a few addatives added...if i remember right, it can be added to regular automotive paint, then sprayed with spray gun. But since these parts will be seen from ip close, touched, and examined for a extented time while in the car, you might want to get them sprayed at a body shop....no drips or dust/bug spots.

 

Thanks for all the tips. It looks like the red paint hardended up nicely with a little more time.

He he... Porthos, don't worry. That's not AT ALL what I have in mind. I'm just talking small accents amid less bling. The complete job will actually look much simpler than the current interior.

 

[IMG]http://

Went to my body guy, got the paint codes. Took two piece dash off. Paint and clear coat. Matched body color to a T. Small John Cooper signature decal from House of Graphix

 

Looks great... excellent choice and execution!

 

I can't imagine it holding up to average daily wear and tear but to each his own.

 

Has kind of an x-wing kind of vibe... stay on target... stay on target...

 

There are rattle cans of automotive paints specifically for plastic interior parts. They also make "Adheasion Promoter" for this application. It's a type of primer. If you plan on using that OEM paint on plastic, I would apply that first.

If you paint smooth plastic parts yourself, such as the "hidden compartment cover" in an R56 as depicted above, I would also suggest a few coats of DuPont Clear Acrylic lacquer in a 25 dollar rattle can from professional auto paint shop. They also call it door jam clear.

 

Adhesion promoter for plastic is separate from the paint (gets applied before).

This could be wrong (a body shop person should be able to confirm/deny), but it's my understanding that the flex agent that can be added to paint when doing bumpers and such only lasts for about 24 hours before evaporating... It just provides a little extra flex tolerance during installation of the freshly painted part.

Always important to be careful with the prep and try to prevent contamination when spraying, but if you're careful in doing so you should be able to wet sand / polish out minor sag / runs / dust, should they occur. Can't see paying a body shop for little stuff like this.

The BRG cubby cover came out nice. Don't think blacking out the silver bits would be at all ricey as long as the painting isn't half-arsed. Body color would have to be tastefully used, but could become ricey pretty easily, IMO. But then some would say my factory black/red seats and red color line are ricey, so there's no accounting for taste.

 

Very nice! want to do the same to my LiB.

 

The trim should be properly prepped and painted like a body panel. Why? Only because the paint will adhere as best as possible. You are going to want these pieces to hold up over time and through wear-and-tear.

I think paint-matched trim looks fantastic. That's why I had mine done on the S-Hatch. Sure it looks pretty bold but I wouldn't call my interior ricer. When the car is wrapped up and cleaned up I will post some high-quality pics of both the interior and exterior. Don't mind all the things out of wack, this was immediately after installing the gauge and well cover.

 

I have painted many parts over the years.

My suggestion is to use a two stage paint. BC/CC on th heard plastic parts. You can have a paint shop mix up a perfect base match in a rattle can. Then you can pick up a 2k clear that is extremely durable with UV protection just like the factory.

You can even wet sand and polish the parts to a gloss that rivals the original parts. Dries as hard as a rock with excellent chip and scratch resistance.

The key is in the prep work. Make sure to remove all the gloss from the parts. I like to use a red scotch brite pad. Then I use dupli-color prep to get any remaining armor all or other stuff off the part. Use a cloth that will not leave fibers behind when wiping the part down.

Follow BC/CC instructions and you will NEED to use a respirator when shooting the 2k clear. It is extremely harmful and can be fatal if inhaled! All body shop supply stores carry respirators.

If I buy the JCW I m looking at I will be painting some of its interior parts and re-dyeing the door arm rests.


Bill

 

I see a lot of people talking about going to a body/paint shop and getting expensive painting done. I used three types of spray paint on many exterior and interior parts and the finish is perfect and I don't feel like it will chip or crack at all.

I used these three things:


-Don't sand anything.
-2 coats of the self-etching primer.
-5 to 7 light coats of paint.
-5 to 7 light coats of clear coat. Matte or glossy.
-Let dry overnight and install carefully.

I'd say it's completely cured in about 48 hours .

This worked very well for me and was easy, fast, and cheap which is typically an impossible combo.

 

This looks absolutely amazing!! Love the color and the pull door handles. I wish I could get away with this green color in my Chili Red without it looking like Xmas 365. How hard was the pull door handles? Every since Ive seen these on the newer Porsches I have wanted them.

 

Plastic emits gases and that is why you get a haze on the inside of your windows. Thus, when the gas emits it releases the paint if not properly sealed with an etch primer to eliminate the gas on the outer surface. The best plastic etch primer (I'm in the paint industry) is a product called Bulldog. You can purchase it in aerosol at any auto paint jobber such as NAPA. Etch with Bulldog, prime and apply your topcoat.

 

Are those... bath mats?