Hi there, everyone.

I'm looking to put driving lights (rally lights) on my 2005 R53, and am looking to do it on the cheap! I've done a LOT of searching through this forum, but figured I'd post a thread before I drop any money.

It seems the best lights for the value are the Hella 500s, but what about brackets? I know a lot of people have had luck with DIY mounting solutions, so let's see them! If anyone's got a guide, I'd really appreciate a link to that. :D

Also, of the brackets available, does anyone have any recommendations? The thought of cutting my bumper / grille sounds horribly scary, so I'd like to avoid that. VIP Customs seems to have some good offerings. Has anyone used their parts?

Thanks a ton, hope this is in the right place.

Daniel

 

Looking thru older posts I couldn't see any helpful hints on what some might have come up with for brackets. I'm wanting to see how the bracket is installed (where and what on) before I order the lights (KC 4.5" slim-blk plastic). I've seen an existing mount for the MINI fog lites that KC's were adapted to fit but I'm wanting to go with something much less expensive, especially since the KC's aren't nearly as heavy. Maybe something a person good make that would work as well.


First though, I need to know how etc. any bracket is secured and where. Any instructions I see only elaborate on the wiring schematics or sell "windshield" adaptable parts for their bracket. Any time I've come across a MINI with the lights, there was no chance to ask if I could take a look at the backside of theirs.
Would sure appreciate any tips and thanks

 

Try VIP. website is www.vipcustomparts.com

 

I've installed several sets for folks both factory and other

if your R53 has the original 'slat' grill then you best bet is the factory brackets in my opinion. You can still get them from outmotoring.com
http://www.outmotoring.com/mini-coop..._brackets.html

and you can get the fsctory kit install instructions from Minimania.com
http://www.minimania.com/pdfile/NMA3030_INSTR.zip
to see how they go on. No cutting to the original grrill is required, you do drill some small holes but these are 'inside' the bonnet. The factory calls for using pop-rivets to install the brackets, but I use stainless screws and nylox nuts for easier removal (and I don't like pop rivets)

I have mentioned in other posts that it is very reasonable to fabricate a similar bracket IF you have the right equipment to work with steel, and weld..... which I do but the effort to duplicate the factory bracket if it will work for you does not seem worth the effort.

 

Thank you, JAB 67.

 

Capt bj,
Remembered your post about installing the lights but couldn't find it again.
Thanks so much for the links.

 

Also consider this: driving light brackets need to be sufficiently rigid that your lights don't bounce around while driving. Cheap in this situation can be a complete waste of money.

 

very true - the factory brackets are very stout - you are not going to bend them by hand!

 

Yes, a good point I definately don't want them bouncing around or falling off. I've had my husband looking at the diagram and instructions that I've saved, from your posts. I was trying to come up with another way of mounting a bracket that wouldn't need drilling into the grill.
He's comfortable mounting the MINI brackets and drilling. I'm the one who is causing the hold up.
Have learned a lot today and I thank you.

 

My kit consists of a set of Westin 4x6" rectangular lights mounted on a piece of aluminum 1" right-angle bar. I snipped out two small sections of the black plastic mesh out front. I drilled four holes through the bumper, consisting of a total of eight holes because it's hollow. Two 4" bolts are passed through the back, and aluminum tubing takes up the slack between the bolts and the front mount. The loom is wound toward the rear firewall, and the relay is mounted on a post right behind the power steering overflow tank. If memory serves, I cut a hole in the firewall behind the brake pedal in the seal to pass the wires through. You can reseal it with some clear sealant (you can get a tube of Beacon 527 at Michael's Arts & Crafts for $5).

I installed the kit light switch on the panel underneath the steering wheel. You have to use a long-shaft screwdriver and press downward in the space. I drilled out the hole and had to snip the factory switch mount points on the inside to get clearance. That position in the upper left corner is the only one available; the rest of the panel is comprised of two layers of plastic.

You can get the kit at Amazon for about $51. Just type in "westin 0405" in your search. Here is the final outcome: http://www.cybertekit.net/mini/2006/mini037.jpg. I was not anticipating it, but the install proved even better once I realized the mount bar was behind the license plate. It makes the lights look like they're "floating."

The only downside to this kit is the positive leads come from the positive battery terminal, so it's considered off-road use only. If you want to make your lights more factory-like, you will need to determine which lead(s) are for your brights. If you have the daytime running lights turned on in the ECU, which use the brights in a low-beam fashion, your kind-of out of luck (unless you have the feature turned off).

 

Very Nice JumpingJackFlash

I'm thinking we're still going to try for round lights. Went out to the MINI dealership today and looked at things. Wow,,I needed a reminder as to why I'm looking elsewhere.