Well, Harbor Freight had some voltmeters and vacuum/boost gauges for sale and I had some material laying around. I spun up some black 1/2" acrylic for the base that fit into the cupholder, cut a section of some aircraft aluminum tube for the middle section, and spun up a 1/4" red acrylic for the top part where the units slip into. They are the standardized size, so I could replace them with more pricey units in the future. Every piece is an interference fit, with means they are tight toleranced and held into place with friction. I may black anodize the aluminum later. Above the gauges are an HD radio faceplate that I machined. The same black acrylic which I seem to us alot of. It was a bit of a bear to fit between the tubes. It has a small switch box to the right of the display to that allow me to toggle between the hard drives and the hd radio. The downtubes were covered in leather by me, and seem to have held up. I had to modify the base slightly because of the thickness of the leather. Above the radio are the new switch guards. My bull terrier was moving around and he broke one. They seem to be made to be broken because there are specific weak spots in them. Mini does not sell them as replacements, so I removed them all and began to map out what was next. After a couple of what now seem ideas, I milled these beginning as rectangular blocks. Cut the inner holes on a mill, inserted brass screw inserts, and cut the curves that sit on the switch assembly. I drilled the holes for the stainless tube and then the milled them all to get the triangular shape. I ran a radius bit to get the taper at the ends. I wet sanded them mounted them with 6-32 hardware and slid the polished tube in. I capped the tube with tube caps. I then tightened all of the guards and mounted the assembly. In reality, it was a bit of work, but think I made it better. The ss tube allows me to rest my finger on whatever button I want to use and not worry about a bouncing car. It is much stronger and will never worry about have to do it again. I did not have to modify the original mini assembly, and could go back to the conventional guards if needed. Since they are broken, that is no longer needed. That was a long write up, sorry and thanks for the view.

 

Very cool and an interesting idea... but they'd be easier to see the gauges, I think, if you cut the top edges at a slight slant, so the gauges face more forwards rather than straight upwards. Since they just sit in the cup holders, you could also tilt them slightly towards the driver's side, further increasing visibility.

 

I would think that the height from which the driver would be observing the gauges would make for adequate visibility. I would also think that this would have been considered at the time of conception/installation. That said, I must compliment the work and idea. Moreover, the switchbank and other customization in your car is a representation of incredible conceptualization and masterful craftsmanship.

 

I am 5' 10", and while driving I can view both. I don't plan on using boost gauge while driving. I like to monitor the vacuum over time to monitor leakage and to see what the boost is, sometimes. I would use the voltage gauge to monitor battery condition. The boost should be closest and voltage farther away, but in my busy construction time, will have to switch later. I too would like to angle both of them, but the boring head is not set up for the mill. I am toying with the idea of getting a small CNC mill and this could lead me into selling what I can. Not a great time to sell anything, but the designs are coming on strong and I appreciate the compliments. Sometimes designing and building for yourself, and wondering if your designs are a bit out of the norm can be alleviated by helpful criticism, thanks again.