What your painter's talking about doing isn't the same as any of the methods described in the magazine article, but it's close.

He's talking about using a "tinted clear coat" (adding black pigment to the clear coat in addition to the flattening agent). It's not as opaque as a single-stage paint, so it might not hide the metallic Astro Black 100%, but it'll be a lot easier to care for than a single-stage paint.

A common use of a tinted clear coat is the traditional "Candy Apple Red" paint job, which is a red-tinted clear applied over a silver or gold base coat. You see the red in the clear, and the clear gives you depth, but the metallic base coat still shows through. You also see it used in "ghost flames", where a metallic or pearlescent pigment is added to a clearcoat and then shot over the base coat. The clear allows the base colour to show through, but you can see the pigmented clear design faintly if the light catches the finish just right.

 

So scott what is your opinion still try and keep the astro? If this does come out even with the risk of having a blue\black paint job as long as its flat it will look pretty cool.

 

Well, I don't know how big the insurance check was or how badly you want to change the finish, but like I said earlier, my first step would be to talk to a detailer and see if the marks will polish out. If they will, then you can have a perfect Astro Black finish and a couple thousand dollars in the bank to do whatever you please.

But if the factory finish can't be repaired, then I'd say go for the flat finish if that's what you'd like to do. I'm sure it'll look great, even if a little of the original colour does show through. Depending on how much your painter tints the clear, he may even be able to get it to look completely black.

 

Just for the record, it's not that simple. It would literally be impossible to sand/prep an entire car without burning through some edges somewhere.... thus meaning to put basecoat on the car. (essentially a paintjob)

That is just to reclear... your painter is saying to remove the clear. You CANNOT just strip the clear off without trashing the basecoat... ain't gonna happen.

Secondly, if you're going to change colors (and/or just flatten the clearcoat) then don't forget about the jambs. You will definitely kill the value if you don't do door/trunk jambs.

Thirdly, just how much did your insurance company pay you? I ask because you should have gotten roughly 1000-1200 to refinish one side of your car (possibly 1500)

Point is, I'd be aware of anyone painting an entire car for 1200-1500 bucks.

My cost for paint materials is roughly 700-1000 per car. By the time we prep the car, R&I (remove and install) ALL TRIM, bumpers, mouldings, etc, etc, paint the car, wetsand and buff the car, you're looking at least 4500 bucks.

I'm not saying you can't get a decent paintjob for less than that but I am saying that I'd be aware of anyone doing a paintjob for 1200'ish.

Hope you got more from the insurance company, just don't want you to get a crappy job.... it would have been better to fix what you have that have someone ruin the entire car.

Mark

 

I think it's possible to scuff an existing clear coat well enough to spray a new clear coat on top of it without burning through to the factory base coat. I wetsand in-between clear coats all the time painting bikes with no problems.

I do agree that the idea of later sanding off the tinted clear coat in order to get back to the factory finish is pretty much ludicrous. You're not going to be able to evenly remove all of the new clear coat without sanding through the factory clear coat at least once by accident.

I also wholeheartedly agree that it's hard to get a professional full-car paint job including jambs/trunk/etcetera for less than $4-5k. That's why I've been trying to feel out the OP for exactly how much the insurance settlement check was. I think he'd be better off having the damaged clear coat professionally polished out if he can, or just have the affected parts of the car re-painted to the factory colour, rather than trying to change the colour of the entire car for $1200-1500.

 

I agree, it is possible, it's just not the norm. Sanding clearcoats on a few bike parts (because of size and shape) is much easier than prepping an entire car that has stone chips, corners, etc, etc... Obviously with the difference in area to be prepped, the odds of burning through a much greater.

Like I said, not impossible, just not probable.

Mark

 

orangecrush and scott i really appreciate the input and so its out there i got 2800 to redo the finish that's why i really want to do the paint on the whole car. I never plan on reselling the cooper so resale value doesn't realy matter. I just want it to look cool.(for me)

 

Brandon,

You should find someone out there to do a decent job for that amount of money. Like I said, our paintjobs start off at 4500. I sell that same paintjob to forum members for 3000 so you shouldn't have a problem finding someone.

Good luck, let us know how it turns out.

Mark

 

Repair the astro black, then wrap it in a satin black vinyl for like $1,800. This way it doesn't kill your resale value (and protects the original paint) and you still get your awesome satin finish.

 

That's a great idea if you can get it done for that price. (not saying you can't, I don't know how much it costs to do a mini... I know trucks can be 4000-6000)

If you decide to do that, just make sure you are going to a place that doesn't trash your paint with a razor blade cutting the edges.

We had a customer bring a work truck to us to remove the wrap when he sold his business. Once we removed it, the paint looked like Freddy Kruger got a hold of it.

Just a suggestion.

Mark

 

Then just go for it! And post your pix!

 

Little update. It seams to me that my paint guy might have been just been smooth talking me to get some business. (*shrug* it happens) But i still like the idea of a flat car. (no matter the color) So when i get some free time i think somesort of paint job is in my near future. I did take it to a detail guy btw just for him to say the car needs to be re-painted so i did try that avenue. But without NAM and the memembers contained in i think i might not have asked so many questions (and got some answers i didn't totaly like). Its cool because now i am a bit more informed about the process thatnks for the thread

 

It's funny you mentioned the flat black. About a month ago, I sold a lifted/supercharged H2. I bought a Jeep Rubicon just to keep a 4WD around.

I've owned it for a week or so and even with a liftkit and new wheels/tires, I don't like it.... I want an H2 again.

Anyway, tomorrow I'm going to look at another except instead of a liftkit, I'm going in this direction.



Point is.... I'll be doing the satin black finish myself very shortly.

Mark