Interior/Exterior Air Horn - an exercise in taking a mod to the extreme!
3rd Gear
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 237
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From: Long Island, NY & Binghamton, NY
Wow i just stumbled upon this thread, very very funny. Great idea!
I know CO2 can cause some issues with temperature and plus it costs money to refill. Why don't you guys just use a paintball air (nitrogen) tank? You can install it in the same spot you have your Co2 tank and then just refill it with an air compressor at home (assuming you have an air compressor)... Figured it could be a solution to people who have to deal with the cold and don't want to pay whatever it costs to refill the co2
I know CO2 can cause some issues with temperature and plus it costs money to refill. Why don't you guys just use a paintball air (nitrogen) tank? You can install it in the same spot you have your Co2 tank and then just refill it with an air compressor at home (assuming you have an air compressor)... Figured it could be a solution to people who have to deal with the cold and don't want to pay whatever it costs to refill the co2
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6th Gear
Joined: Jul 2004
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You could do this, but CO2 is stored as a liquid under the pressures in paintball tanks, so it is much more dense. You would need a HUGE compressed air tank to supply the same volume of gas at PST.
This is what most trucks do that install systems, but they also install a small compressor to keep the on-board tank filled up. I didn't have space under there for the low pressure air tanks that I'd want for the volume I run.
This is what most trucks do that install systems, but they also install a small compressor to keep the on-board tank filled up. I didn't have space under there for the low pressure air tanks that I'd want for the volume I run.
Neutral
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Man.... REALLY want to do this again, I had forgotten about it but got the itch. Would be nice to have on such a small car.
Blimey and agranger, what'd you use hose and connection wise between your regs and horns? It looks like Blimey used some sort of braided stainless. Did you keep the quick disconnect or did you end up switching out for something more permanent? SOOOO MANY QUESTIONS haha.
Blimey and agranger, what'd you use hose and connection wise between your regs and horns? It looks like Blimey used some sort of braided stainless. Did you keep the quick disconnect or did you end up switching out for something more permanent? SOOOO MANY QUESTIONS haha.
No quick disconnect on mine. Braided stainless hose from regulator to horn - got it from a paintball supply place in the right length and size for the inlets on my horn and reg. Bottle threads into regulator.
But I can take the whole thing off in a couple of minutes - two bolts and two electrical quick-connects.
But I can take the whole thing off in a couple of minutes - two bolts and two electrical quick-connects.
6th Gear
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,798
Likes: 11
From: CT
You could do this, but CO2 is stored as a liquid under the pressures in paintball tanks, so it is much more dense. You would need a HUGE compressed air tank to supply the same volume of gas at PST.
This is what most trucks do that install systems, but they also install a small compressor to keep the on-board tank filled up. I didn't have space under there for the low pressure air tanks that I'd want for the volume I run.
This is what most trucks do that install systems, but they also install a small compressor to keep the on-board tank filled up. I didn't have space under there for the low pressure air tanks that I'd want for the volume I run.
3rd Gear
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 159
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From: Lynnwood, WA
its been a while since anyone replied on here if anyone knows if it would fit under a non s R56 I'd love to know......
...also how easy is this I have 0 experience with electrical stuff or really mods of any kind.....
...also how easy is this I have 0 experience with electrical stuff or really mods of any kind.....
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6th Gear
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,054
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It's possible on any car, but the hard part is finding room for the horns.
I've got an R53 (2006 MCS) with an aftermarket exhaust that only uses 1 of the 2 factory spots for mufflers... that gave me lots of room to play with. I think that Blimey has set up in a similar way.
I've got an R53 (2006 MCS) with an aftermarket exhaust that only uses 1 of the 2 factory spots for mufflers... that gave me lots of room to play with. I think that Blimey has set up in a similar way.
6th Gear
Joined: Apr 2003
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From: a canyon, south Bay Area
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6th Gear
Joined: Jul 2004
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FYI: I'm still trying to find the right regulator for my application. The two that I've tried always had small leaks at pressure... makes it difficult to keep a full tank of CO2. Both the Kobalt (tool company made regulator for driving air tools with CO2) and the Palmer Persuit (paintball regulator) didn't like what I was trying to do with them.
It is expensive, but I think I'm going to try this next: http://powertank.com/products/sfID1/38/productID/335
Powertank makes rigs for inflation of tires while off-roading and driving power tools / air lockers. Hopefully this will work better. I've also found that there are aquarium uses for CO2 at the 150 psi range and I found a company that makes an adaptor from the paintball tank connection to a fitting for a normal (but larger) regulator, so that might be my approach as well.
It is expensive, but I think I'm going to try this next: http://powertank.com/products/sfID1/38/productID/335
Powertank makes rigs for inflation of tires while off-roading and driving power tools / air lockers. Hopefully this will work better. I've also found that there are aquarium uses for CO2 at the 150 psi range and I found a company that makes an adaptor from the paintball tank connection to a fitting for a normal (but larger) regulator, so that might be my approach as well.
Last edited by agranger; Oct 3, 2011 at 12:59 PM.
6th Gear
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,957
Likes: 2
From: a canyon, south Bay Area
FYI: I'm still trying to find the right regulator for my application. The two that I've tried always had small leaks at pressure... makes it difficult to keep a full tank of CO2.
It is expensive, but I think I'm going to try this next: http://powertank.com/products/sfID1/38/productID/335
It is expensive, but I think I'm going to try this next: http://powertank.com/products/sfID1/38/productID/335
If you get this or something comparable, please do share your experiences.
I have never had the need to purchase C02 before. A couple questions come to mind for this application:
1. What size storage bottle / tank and how many blast might one expect? I realize that will be determined by various factors such as the number of horns involved, psi demands and blast duration...
2. What does it cost to have these bottles / tanks refilled?
Thanks for reviving this thread.
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6th Gear
Joined: Jul 2004
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I think that I'm using a 9oz or 20oz bottle right now... can't remember which, but I think those are the standard sized paintball bottles. Each bottle costs me about $1.50 to refill at a local sporting goods store. I have at least 4 of 'em in my garage, so I'm not always running back and forth to the shop. The bottles are cheap... $10 each, maybe.
I have never run out of CO2 due to horn blasts. I've always run out because of system leaks. If they would last me 3-4 months, that would be OK. Unfortunately, I've always found small leaks in the regulators that I'm chosing (I finally found 'em by submersing the tank and regulator (capped) in a sink full of water). This Powertank regulator is a unique heavy-duty design made for off-road vehicle use... It is also specifically made for this pressure range (unlike the paintball reg that I tried where I was on the very low end of even the low-pressure adaptation kit they sell).
CO2 is stored as a liquid in these bottles (3000+ psi). That's one of the main reasons that I chose it... you can store a lot more CO2 as a liquid than as a gas, keeping the tank small. I'm wondering how many blasts I could get off of one of the little BB gun cartriges (10 gram, I think).
With every refill, I put on a new o-ring ($0.10 or so, I'd guess... you buy 'em in a bag of 50-100 for $5
With the Powertank reg, I could also use it for tire inflation or to power an impact wrench at the track for quick wheel changes (Just to turn the nuts quickly, not to break them loose or tighten 'em down.... that should always be done with a breaker bar and a torque wrench).
I have never run out of CO2 due to horn blasts. I've always run out because of system leaks. If they would last me 3-4 months, that would be OK. Unfortunately, I've always found small leaks in the regulators that I'm chosing (I finally found 'em by submersing the tank and regulator (capped) in a sink full of water). This Powertank regulator is a unique heavy-duty design made for off-road vehicle use... It is also specifically made for this pressure range (unlike the paintball reg that I tried where I was on the very low end of even the low-pressure adaptation kit they sell).
CO2 is stored as a liquid in these bottles (3000+ psi). That's one of the main reasons that I chose it... you can store a lot more CO2 as a liquid than as a gas, keeping the tank small. I'm wondering how many blasts I could get off of one of the little BB gun cartriges (10 gram, I think).
With every refill, I put on a new o-ring ($0.10 or so, I'd guess... you buy 'em in a bag of 50-100 for $5
With the Powertank reg, I could also use it for tire inflation or to power an impact wrench at the track for quick wheel changes (Just to turn the nuts quickly, not to break them loose or tighten 'em down.... that should always be done with a breaker bar and a torque wrench).
Last edited by agranger; Oct 4, 2011 at 01:23 PM.
I have collected a box of stuff and have a heavy duty reg., paint ball bottle and train horns but time and space are missing to complete this project.
May install in my 4X4 ZR2 if I can get it back from wife.
May install in my 4X4 ZR2 if I can get it back from wife.
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6th Gear
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,054
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I'm hearing that! When I first started this project, it took me almost 2 years to collect the parts and get the inspiration on how to make it all happen. Lately, I started feeling bad that I was 99% of the way there but hadn't followed through on a new reg, so I'm back at it...
It is absolutely hilarious to break out at club events and other MINI functions.
I ordered the extreme model of the Powertank regulator... it has a higher flow rating and goes up to 250 psi. Amazon says that it's gonna take 2-4 weeks...
It is absolutely hilarious to break out at club events and other MINI functions.
I ordered the extreme model of the Powertank regulator... it has a higher flow rating and goes up to 250 psi. Amazon says that it's gonna take 2-4 weeks...
6th Gear
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,957
Likes: 2
From: a canyon, south Bay Area
I think that I'm using a 9oz or 20oz bottle right now... can't remember which, but I think those are the standard sized paintball bottles. Each bottle costs me about $1.50 to refill at a local sporting goods store. I have at least 4 of 'em in my garage, so I'm not always running back and forth to the shop. The bottles are cheap... $10 each, maybe.
I have never run out of CO2 due to horn blasts. I've always run out because of system leaks. If they would last me 3-4 months, that would be OK. Unfortunately, I've always found small leaks in the regulators that I'm chosing (I finally found 'em by submersing the tank and regulator (capped) in a sink full of water). This Powertank regulator is a unique heavy-duty design made for off-road vehicle use... It is also specifically made for this pressure range (unlike the paintball reg that I tried where I was on the very low end of even the low-pressure adaptation kit they sell).
CO2 is stored as a liquid in these bottles (3000+ psi). That's one of the main reasons that I chose it... you can store a lot more CO2 as a liquid than as a gas, keeping the tank small. I'm wondering how many blasts I could get off of one of the little BB gun cartriges (10 gram, I think).
With every refill, I put on a new o-ring ($0.10 or so, I'd guess... you buy 'em in a bag of 50-100 for $5
With the Powertank reg, I could also use it for tire inflation or to power an impact wrench at the track for quick wheel changes (Just to turn the nuts quickly, not to break them loose or tighten 'em down.... that should always be done with a breaker bar and a torque wrench).
I have never run out of CO2 due to horn blasts. I've always run out because of system leaks. If they would last me 3-4 months, that would be OK. Unfortunately, I've always found small leaks in the regulators that I'm chosing (I finally found 'em by submersing the tank and regulator (capped) in a sink full of water). This Powertank regulator is a unique heavy-duty design made for off-road vehicle use... It is also specifically made for this pressure range (unlike the paintball reg that I tried where I was on the very low end of even the low-pressure adaptation kit they sell).
CO2 is stored as a liquid in these bottles (3000+ psi). That's one of the main reasons that I chose it... you can store a lot more CO2 as a liquid than as a gas, keeping the tank small. I'm wondering how many blasts I could get off of one of the little BB gun cartriges (10 gram, I think).
With every refill, I put on a new o-ring ($0.10 or so, I'd guess... you buy 'em in a bag of 50-100 for $5
With the Powertank reg, I could also use it for tire inflation or to power an impact wrench at the track for quick wheel changes (Just to turn the nuts quickly, not to break them loose or tighten 'em down.... that should always be done with a breaker bar and a torque wrench).
Where would you secure this highly pressurized bottle? If under the car, more near the horns, that would be ideal. That said, it would need to be protected from any impacts. Would not be hard to do, at least with my set-up (straight exhaust)...
I wonder if it's the jarring, stiff MINI ride that makes for the leaks? If so, securing it should take that into account...
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6th Gear
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,054
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Yep... I wouldn't want that much gas to be vented suddenly into the cabin, so I mounted outside. I was also worried about heat and damage to the bottle, so I mounted it inside of the black box on the right in this image (from post #1)
I walked around Home Depot, looking for something to do the trick and found this box that is made to be installed on an electrical conduit... it has a large opening in one end (good for venting gas, should the safety valve pop) and it only takes 4 screws to open it. On the inside, I've got 2 large pipe clamps that securely hold the tank and regulator in place... fitted with wingnuts, so I can remove the bottle fairly easily. A tank change takes all of 10 minutes, including time to find the screwdriver, jack up (and jack stand) the rear left corner, make the swap and clean-up.
Actually, I don't even jack up the car anymore. My garage floor is a few inches above the height of the driveway, giving me just enough room to replace the bottle. I just pull into the garage nose first and leave the back end of the car hanging out (see the last picture, above). I just drop a tarp down on the gravel and make the swap... no point in getting under a jacked-up (or even jack-standed) car unless you have to!
That pic was when my car was on the stock suspension, but I bet I can still get up under there with the coil-overs fitted and the back end riding way low. :D
I walked around Home Depot, looking for something to do the trick and found this box that is made to be installed on an electrical conduit... it has a large opening in one end (good for venting gas, should the safety valve pop) and it only takes 4 screws to open it. On the inside, I've got 2 large pipe clamps that securely hold the tank and regulator in place... fitted with wingnuts, so I can remove the bottle fairly easily. A tank change takes all of 10 minutes, including time to find the screwdriver, jack up (and jack stand) the rear left corner, make the swap and clean-up.
Actually, I don't even jack up the car anymore. My garage floor is a few inches above the height of the driveway, giving me just enough room to replace the bottle. I just pull into the garage nose first and leave the back end of the car hanging out (see the last picture, above). I just drop a tarp down on the gravel and make the swap... no point in getting under a jacked-up (or even jack-standed) car unless you have to!
That pic was when my car was on the stock suspension, but I bet I can still get up under there with the coil-overs fitted and the back end riding way low. :D
Last edited by agranger; Oct 5, 2011 at 10:30 AM.
6th Gear
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,957
Likes: 2
From: a canyon, south Bay Area
Yep... I wouldn't want that much gas to be vented suddenly into the cabin, so I mounted outside. I was also worried about heat and damage to the bottle, so I mounted it inside of the black box on the right in this image (from post #1)
I walked around Home Depot, looking for something to do the trick and found this box that is made to be installed on an electrical conduit... it has a large opening in one end (good for venting gas, should the safety valve pop) and it only takes 4 screws to open it. On the inside, I've got 2 large pipe clamps that securely hold the tank and regulator in place... fitted with wingnuts, so I can remove the bottle fairly easily. A tank change takes all of 10 minutes, including time to find the screwdriver, jack up (and jack stand) the rear left corner, make the swap and clean-up.
Actually, I don't even jack up the car anymore. My garage floor is a few inches above the height of the driveway, giving me just enough room to replace the bottle. I just pull into the garage nose first and leave the back end of the car hanging out (see the last picture, above). I just drop a tarp down on the gravel and make the swap... no point in getting under a jacked-up (or even jack-standed) car unless you have to!
That pic was when my car was on the stock suspension, but I bet I can still get up under there with the coil-overs fitted and the back end riding way low. :D
I walked around Home Depot, looking for something to do the trick and found this box that is made to be installed on an electrical conduit... it has a large opening in one end (good for venting gas, should the safety valve pop) and it only takes 4 screws to open it. On the inside, I've got 2 large pipe clamps that securely hold the tank and regulator in place... fitted with wingnuts, so I can remove the bottle fairly easily. A tank change takes all of 10 minutes, including time to find the screwdriver, jack up (and jack stand) the rear left corner, make the swap and clean-up.
Actually, I don't even jack up the car anymore. My garage floor is a few inches above the height of the driveway, giving me just enough room to replace the bottle. I just pull into the garage nose first and leave the back end of the car hanging out (see the last picture, above). I just drop a tarp down on the gravel and make the swap... no point in getting under a jacked-up (or even jack-standed) car unless you have to!
That pic was when my car was on the stock suspension, but I bet I can still get up under there with the coil-overs fitted and the back end riding way low. :D
Looks like you have a short path from the bottle to horns, which is great. And the bottle looks to be protected quite well too. For underside access in the rear, I just back-up onto wheel ramps. A couple minutes max and it's plenty safe with plenty of room to work in comfort...
If you get the leak resolved, please share. I will then tackle this too...
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6th Gear
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,054
Likes: 10
Well... I tried ordering the regulator (I got the heavy-duty version of the Powertank regulator shown above) through Amazon, but they canceled the order after 1 month of no shipping by the vendor. I re-ordered through 4-wheel truck parts and picked up the new regulator last night. I hooked up a full CO2 tank and dropped the tank and the regulator in the kitchen sink... NO LEAKS! YEA! The Powertank regulator is a different design without a diaphram (must use an alternative method ;D ) and it seems to be holding.
If I can find the time this weekend, I'll get under the car and make the connections.
If I can find the time this weekend, I'll get under the car and make the connections.
6th Gear
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,957
Likes: 2
From: a canyon, south Bay Area
Well... I tried ordering the regulator (I got the heavy-duty version of the Powertank regulator shown above) through Amazon, but they canceled the order after 1 month of no shipping by the vendor. I re-ordered through 4-wheel truck parts and picked up the new regulator last night. I hooked up a full CO2 tank and dropped the tank and the regulator in the kitchen sink... NO LEAKS! YEA! The Powertank regulator is a different design without a diaphram (must use an alternative method ;D ) and it seems to be holding.
If I can find the time this weekend, I'll get under the car and make the connections.
If I can find the time this weekend, I'll get under the car and make the connections.
If time permits this weekend, please do keep the updates coming...
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6th Gear
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,054
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Yep... Powertank is a company that makes equpment for off-road use... primarily Jeeps etc for filling tires, lowering/raising air suspension and air-lockers. It should be able to take the abuse. Even if I could get a month out of a tank, I'd be happy.
If my fittings are the right size, I'm going to remove the quick connect fitting that came from the factory on the Powertank regulator and will hard-connect it. I'm worried that the quick connect fitting will leak a bit of CO2 on every bump and with my coil-overs, there are a lot of bumps! :D
If my fittings are the right size, I'm going to remove the quick connect fitting that came from the factory on the Powertank regulator and will hard-connect it. I'm worried that the quick connect fitting will leak a bit of CO2 on every bump and with my coil-overs, there are a lot of bumps! :D
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6th Gear
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,054
Likes: 10
Well... good news so far. I had the regulator on a tank for 4-5 days and the tank still had gas, so that is always good news. On Saturday morning, I installed the tank and regulator (using the quick connect... was in the middle of some other work and didn't want to take the time to disconnect it) and the horn was back in action. It might be a bit quieter than before, so perhaps I need to dial the pressure up a bit.
On my way to work Monday morning the horn was still working! 2 days is better than I got on my last regulator... I'm keeping my fingers crossed!
On my way to work Monday morning the horn was still working! 2 days is better than I got on my last regulator... I'm keeping my fingers crossed!
6th Gear
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,957
Likes: 2
From: a canyon, south Bay Area
Well... good news so far. I had the regulator on a tank for 4-5 days and the tank still had gas, so that is always good news. On Saturday morning, I installed the tank and regulator (using the quick connect... was in the middle of some other work and didn't want to take the time to disconnect it) and the horn was back in action. It might be a bit quieter than before, so perhaps I need to dial the pressure up a bit.
On my way to work Monday morning the horn was still working! 2 days is better than I got on my last regulator... I'm keeping my fingers crossed!
On my way to work Monday morning the horn was still working! 2 days is better than I got on my last regulator... I'm keeping my fingers crossed!
Hey, in an earlier post on this page you mentioned that you went with PoweerTank's more extreme regulator, up to 250 PSI. When I looked at their website, I saw this one, but it goes up to 280:
http://powertank.com/products/sfID1/38/productID/345
Might it be that one?
If so, I see it here for a 30 bucks less:
http://www.4wd.com/Jeep-Hitches-Hitc...n=AASREG-4011P
Starting to make my shopping list, waiting to pull the trigger though, until it looks even more certain that this regulator is not leaking. Your updates are invaluable!
6th Gear
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,957
Likes: 2
From: a canyon, south Bay Area
Thanks for the quick confirmation.
With the regulator about $200, it looks like this project will exceed 500 bucks. I've been eyeballing these horns:
http://www.hornblasters.com/products...r-4-train-horn
Is the regulator out 1/2"? I didn't see that noted on the Powertank website. Another horn option makes use of a 1/4" valve, not 1/2"...
With the regulator about $200, it looks like this project will exceed 500 bucks. I've been eyeballing these horns:
http://www.hornblasters.com/products...r-4-train-horn
Is the regulator out 1/2"? I didn't see that noted on the Powertank website. Another horn option makes use of a 1/4" valve, not 1/2"...
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6th Gear
Joined: Jul 2004
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Well... 5 days out and the system is still holding pressure! Woot! I think that is a new record.
I love that hornblaster set. Mine definately sound more like the lesser comparison set in the demo video with the white truck. Maybe some day!
I'm not 100% of the output from the reg, but it looked like a standard thread size and opening for a quick connect female fitting that you would buy at Home Depot. Either way, I needed a handfull of elbows and size changing devices, all of which I found in brass in the plumbing section of Home Depot.
Once I got an idea of the hoses that I'd need, I also used stainless braided line from a paintball shop with 1/4 fittings (I think). If the threads weren't pre-coated with a sealant, I'd use teflon tape.
I love that hornblaster set. Mine definately sound more like the lesser comparison set in the demo video with the white truck. Maybe some day!
I'm not 100% of the output from the reg, but it looked like a standard thread size and opening for a quick connect female fitting that you would buy at Home Depot. Either way, I needed a handfull of elbows and size changing devices, all of which I found in brass in the plumbing section of Home Depot.
Once I got an idea of the hoses that I'd need, I also used stainless braided line from a paintball shop with 1/4 fittings (I think). If the threads weren't pre-coated with a sealant, I'd use teflon tape.
6th Gear
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,957
Likes: 2
From: a canyon, south Bay Area
Good stuff agranger, thank you.
With leaks being a concern, of course the fewer connectors, adapters or fittings needed, the better...
Maybe the 1/4" valve hornblaster unit will be desirable. I just emailed PowerTank, and will share what they say...
Great news on the 5 days! Sounds like no pressure drop at all. I guess you have to remove the protective box in order to see one of the gauges.
EDIT / ADD: Wow, that was impressive. I got a reply to my inquiry within 10 minutes!
Tony,
The output port on this regulator is ¼” NPT.
An industrial automatic lock coupler is installed into this port (can be removed).
=====
Looks like the 1/4" valve kit hornblaster unit is the way to go then...
Ok, I replied back asking a bit about the coupler, and got this within 2 minutes:
Tony,
Yes ¼”
Part Number: ALA-8026
Product Name: Air Lock Auto Coupler - Male 1/4 threads
Description:
There are six locking ***** that hold the QR plug secure instead of 3-4 in others. The special seals are rated at -40 degrees F. And they're automatic in that it only requires one hand to push and lock the plug into place. The release, simply pull back the sleeve.
With leaks being a concern, of course the fewer connectors, adapters or fittings needed, the better...
Maybe the 1/4" valve hornblaster unit will be desirable. I just emailed PowerTank, and will share what they say...
Great news on the 5 days! Sounds like no pressure drop at all. I guess you have to remove the protective box in order to see one of the gauges.
EDIT / ADD: Wow, that was impressive. I got a reply to my inquiry within 10 minutes!
Tony,
The output port on this regulator is ¼” NPT.
An industrial automatic lock coupler is installed into this port (can be removed).
=====
Looks like the 1/4" valve kit hornblaster unit is the way to go then...
Ok, I replied back asking a bit about the coupler, and got this within 2 minutes:
Tony,
Yes ¼”
Part Number: ALA-8026
Product Name: Air Lock Auto Coupler - Male 1/4 threads
Description:
There are six locking ***** that hold the QR plug secure instead of 3-4 in others. The special seals are rated at -40 degrees F. And they're automatic in that it only requires one hand to push and lock the plug into place. The release, simply pull back the sleeve.
Last edited by TonyB; Nov 17, 2011 at 08:46 AM.