Interior/Exterior Interior and exterior modifications for Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.

Interior/Exterior My solution to the squeaking seat problem...

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Old Feb 17, 2008 | 07:32 PM
  #1  
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billzcat1
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My solution to the squeaking seat problem...

So I wasn't too happy with my seat... the left corner squeaked every time I pushed the clutch. Problem solved!!
 
Attached Thumbnails My solution to the squeaking seat problem...-dscf0009.jpg  
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Old Feb 17, 2008 | 07:34 PM
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I'd say that is a pretty good fix to a lame problem. Very nice looking seat.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2008 | 07:38 PM
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Sweet!!! ...how much for the beauty?
 
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Old Feb 17, 2008 | 09:39 PM
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Well I got a deal for being "part of the family" at Speedware Motorsports. Here's a somewhat staggering figure though... $1650 out the door (slider, bracket, hardware, seat, tax.). Turns out the seat, slider, and bracket all needed modification to fit the car properly. If anyone needs to know what to do with a Speedware bracket, I have a few suggestions for you.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2008 | 09:45 PM
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RROUNDU
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Beautiful . Best solution to a seat squeaking problem that I've ever seen!
 
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Old Feb 18, 2008 | 12:04 AM
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I could use a few suggestions. My seatbelt bracket rubs on the seat adjuster of my SRD's. Speedware built the bracket, and I don't think it is up to par for what they are charging. But that would be awesome if I could get it to slide front to back much more smoothly.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2008 | 05:06 AM
  #7  
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Here's what we did (myself and Aaron of Euronation Motorsport) - cut off 1/2" on the entire side that holds the seatbelt tab (including the seatbelt tab). Tig-weld a large diameter nut to the slider. We used M12x1.5 as it was the right size to fit on the bracket without any overhang. Also, this allowed the use of a class 10.9 brake caliper bolt from an Audi (had some new OE hardware leftover from a previous project). Don't use too much heat or it will deform the slider to the point that it will bind up. Now you have a perfect-fitting seat bracket that also moves the seatbelt with the base like an OEM seat.

Another solution would involve less welding on delicate sliders but more cutting/fab and that would be to add the seatbelt tab via a 2nd bracket that would bolt between seat and slider and have the tab in the right place to begin with. It would appear that Speedware uses a universal base with model-specific feet which doesn't really work out all that well if you use anything but a harness.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2008 | 12:16 PM
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Great. Thanks for the info. I think I will try the second option so I don't have to weld to the slider. Also, would cutting out a 1/2 inch give me room to slide the seat over so it wont touch my door when it is shut? I think I have a project for next weekend now.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2008 | 08:48 PM
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Indeed. My seat does not touch anything until you hit full-slide to the rear, although it is close to the door. That position is only about a foot too far back for me anyway. Best of luck!
 
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Old Feb 21, 2008 | 10:05 PM
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Thanks. I think I will start to look for a new seatbelt link this week before I take the seats out again.
 
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